Question about 2000 Chevrolet Silverado
I have a 2000 chevy silverado that the brake pedal has no pressure. Replaced front calipers master cylinder and have bled about 1 gallon of brake fluid through system. Have also bled with the automated brake bleed procedure on my snap on scan tool. Sometimes you can pump the pedal about 50 times and you will get pressure but as soon as you let off from it it fall back to the floor. Any help would be appriciated. Im leaning towards the brake pressure modulator valve.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Brake rubber flex line could be collapsed,,or kinked,,,i suggest loosening of the line at the master cylinder distribution block (this will give you the ability of loosening off one line at a time,,and have some one push the brake pedal down,,if you see fluid at this point then you know it has to be the line or the caliper.
if you get no pressure from the distribution block then its the master cylinders fault
Posted on Jan 16, 2009
I use a vacuum bleeder (abt $35) starting at the furthest brake line from the master cylinder & working my way back to the closest. If bled properly by keeping the maste cylinder full, this should solve your problem. Rick
Posted on Apr 15, 2009
1 Siphon off the old brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir under the hood.
2 Fill the reservoir with new brake fluid (don't reuse old fluid as it holds moisture and will corrode your brake system).
3 Start with the brake farthest from the Master cylinder, usually rear wheel, passenger side. Pull off the rubber cover on the bleeder valve. Attach the aquarium air line to the nipple on the bleeder.
4 Have your assistant pump the brake pedal up and down 3-4 times, then hold the pedal down fairly hard.
5 Open the bleeder, let fluid flow out through the air line into a waste container. (preferrably a clear bottle so you can see any air bubbles escaping the system). When the fluid stops and your assistant's foot hits the firewall (brake pedal all the way down), close the bleeder valve immediately!
6 Go to step #4 above and drain more fluid out of the bleeder valve until clean fluid comes out. Check the master cylinder every time and top it up as necessary. This procedure uses lots of fluid.
7 Now move to the rear brake on the driver's side. Go to step #4 and repeat the same procedures above until clean fluid comes out of the bleeder valve and no bubbles.
8 Next is the front brake, passenger side, same procedure. Then the drivers side and the same procedure.
9 When finished check for any leaks, remount rubber covers on the bleeder valve nipples. Remount all wheels, re-torque lug nuts after 50-100 miles of driving.
10 Start vehicle and depress the brake pedal. It should feel much less spongy than before this procedure. If not, there is air in the system, start over. Bleed everything again.
Note: if you assistant releases the brake pedal before you can close the bleeder valve then air will be introduced into the brake lines. This is no good! Before you start tell your assistant you will tell him/her PUMP, HOLD DOWN, RELEASE commands.
That's it, you're done. Congratulate yourself on saving some cash instead of handing it over to a mechanic.
Posted on May 13, 2009
adjust your rear shoes up so that the rear drums just turn, with them ajusted to a low setting the brake pedal will be low .
also when you start your engine it is noral for the pedal to drop because of the boster ! [ but not to the floor ]
Posted on Oct 10, 2009
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