Question about Ford Escort

3 Answers

Whenever I push the clutch pedal to the floor the engine turns over before I turn the ignition switch on. Once I turn the key in the ignition and the car starts, there is a loud grounding sound (the same sound you hear if you turn the key in the ignition switch when the car is already crunk)whenever I depress the clutch to change gears.....PLEASE help!!!

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  • arethatriggs May 16, 2010

    Whenever I push the clutch pedal to the floor the engine turns over before I turn the ignition switch on. Once I turn the key in the ignition and the car starts, there is a loud grounding sound (the same sound you hear if you turn the key in the ignition switch when the car is already crunk)whenever I depress the clutch to change gears.....PLEASE help!!!

  • arethatriggs May 16, 2010

    Whenever I push the clutch pedal to the floor the engine turns over before I turn the ignition switch on. Once I turn the key in the ignition and the car starts, there is a loud grounding sound (the same sound you hear if you turn the key in the ignition switch when the car is already crunk)whenever I depress the clutch to change gears.....PLEASE help!!!

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At the bottom or toward the bottom of the steering shaft there is an ignition switch. This switch is activate when you turn the ignition switch pushing a rod or some activator to activate that ignition switch which gives power to the starter. Apparently there is some way that when you push down the clutch you are activating the ignition switch. It is keeping the starter engaged that is why the grinding noise. That must be fixed or the teeth on you starter and you flex plate or known as the fly wheel, wheel will be damaged too much and turn out very costly.to repair. Darrell S.

Posted on May 16, 2010

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  • arethatriggs May 16, 2010

    Could that something be a clutch pedal ignition lock switch?

  • Darrell Sorenson May 16, 2010

    Yes it could be. I do not know exactly how it is placed in your car, you will have to look. Follow your clutch pedal to see if it is touching anything as you push it down. Look inside car and in the engine and to the transmission. It has to be engaging a switch that powers your starter. Rubbing on something or maybe the switch you are talking about.

  • Darrell Sorenson May 16, 2010

    I could be the clutch switch that allows you to activate the starter. I would certainly replace it.

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Is the ignition switch returning(if applicable) to the on position? Basically I assume it is a key like ignition that requires turning the key to the start position before your engine will turn (start). Now if I am right, then check if the ignition switch is moving back to the on position.Sometimes the ignition switch becomes faulty and the key does not return back after you start the engine. Best thing is to replace it.I hope I have understood your question here and I have tried to answer to the best of what you have explained.

Posted on May 16, 2010

  • arethatriggs May 16, 2010

    I really don't understand your explanation. My car is a standard shift (4 speed) and my problem is that even though the switch is all the way off, the clutch pedal is attempting to crank the car.

  • heeman mohun May 16, 2010

    So you mean when you press the clutch to change gears then you hear a grinding noise?

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Change the solenoid switch ,the switch is back feeding threw the solenoid.

Posted on May 16, 2010

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1 Answer

When i turn the key the engine wont turn over but i have power to everything but the motor


is the car a manual transmission or an automatic? if manual there is a switch on the clutch pedal that wont let engine turn over unless clutch is pushed to floor.automatic it is mounted on transmission at the linkage.for auto trans you can move shifter back an forth while trying to crank engine. if manual you can push clutch pedal to floor hard an try to crank.

Mar 21, 2011 | 1988 Ford Mustang

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I drove my 1999 accord EX to work & 8 hrs. later I tried to start it and it did nothing. Tried jumping still nothing. Put new battery on and it still did nothing.What is the problem?


Hi, diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit.

Ten Reasons why you car won't start..
  1. Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
  2. Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
  3. Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
  4. Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
  5. Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
  6. Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
  7. Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
  8. Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
  9. Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
  10. Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Hope it helps identify and solve the problem

Jan 16, 2011 | 1999 Honda Accord

1 Answer

I have a 2003 Saturan Ion that won't start


Hi, this is what you should do when your car won't start. Diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit. Check it out.....
  • Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
  • Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
  • Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
  • Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
  • Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
  • Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
  • Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
  • Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
  • Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
  • Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Dec 02, 2010 | 2003 Saturn ION

1 Answer

I ran out of diesel. put some in and car still wont start


1. The engine does not have any fuel system screw bleeder!
2. The only one way for start the engine is to fill up the tank, then turn the ignition key in "ON" position for 4 - 5 times, wait for 10 seconds between two attempts, without cranking engine.
3. After that push the clutch pedal, (if exists), to the floor, and the accelerator pedal to the floor too. Now turn the ignition key in "ON" position, wait for 5 seconds, and crank the engine for maximum 40 ... 50 seconds. Wait for 60 seconds between two starting attempts, in order to save the battery & starter motor.
4. Repeat the step no.#3 until start the engine.

IMPORTANT NOTE: DO NOT TOW THE CAR IN ORDER TO ATTEMPT TO START THE ENGINE!!!

Nov 24, 2010 | 2006 Audi A4

1 Answer

I have a 1997 grand prix. Most days it starts. once in a while it will not start. You can sometimes rock key back and forth quickly and it will catch. But most of the time odly enough wait over night and...


When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Jul 14, 2010 | 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix

1 Answer

My car does not start or turn over. The radio works and so does the fan.


When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Jul 14, 2010 | 1995 Suzuki Sidekick

1 Answer

When key is turned clicks once does not turn over changed starter same problem can push and pop clutch runs fine battery ok


check the clutch switch it prevents the starter from turning the engine if the clutch pedal is not depressed

Apr 26, 2010 | 1997 Isuzu Rodeo

2 Answers

Clutch cranks my car


I suspect the starter solenoid,mounted on the starter was 'stuck' on the engaged position.operation in the condition you describe has caused it's failure.starter needs to be replaced.

Oct 10, 2009 | 1995 Ford Escort

2 Answers

Engine won't crank over,it's a five speed when pushed starts right up and runs good.when turned off will not start when you turn the key nothing,not a sound at all..


check to make sure the clutch pedal switch is functioning and that the floor mat isn't blocking the clutch pedal from hitting the switch, basically its either the clutch pedal switch or something between the ignition switch to the starter but i'd try the clutch pedal switch first, its the easiest to check

Jun 21, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet Camaro

2 Answers

Clutch check


you have civic SI type R with the K20A engine and 6sp transmission? correct?

yes the clutch is adjustable.

  1. loosen the clutch pedal position switch(lower of the 2 switches) locknut and back off the clutch pedal position switch.
  2. loosen the clutch push-rod locknut and turn the push-rod in or out to get the desired height and stroke of the pedal.
  3. tighten the push-rod locknut
  4. with the clutch pedal released, turn the clutch pedal position switch in until it contacts the clutch pedal.
  5. turn the clutch pedal position switch in an additional 3/4 to 1 turn.
  6. tighten the clutch pedal position switch locknut.
  7. loosen the clutch interlock switch(the upper switch) locknut and then the interlock switch.
  8. press the clutch pedal to the floor.
  9. release the pedal about 1/2 in. from the fully depressed position, and hold it there. adjust the position of the interlock switch so that the engine will start with the clutch pedal in this position.
  10. tighten the interlock switch locknut.
clutch pedal stroke should be: 5.1 - 5.5 in
clutch pedal height should be: 7.76 in

if adjusting the clutch doesn't help with the transmission feeling notchy, may be the syncros.




Jul 09, 2008 | 2002 Honda Civic

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