My husband has a '93 Chevy Blazer S-10 Turbo and he is having issues when he is driving on his mail route. After so long driving the truck turns off and won't crank for a few minutes. When it does crank he...
hi, i have to clarify first of all, i think when you state the truck won't crank, you mean crank and start, and i will have to assume this is what you mean in order to answer in this case. now, i have personally owned one of these vehicles, and worked on several regular s-10's, and blazers without turbos, there is two problems i see consistantly that you can check. first is the ignition coil wiring connectors. they get loose inside the electronic ignition coil and when too much resistance occurs(bumps, heat, etc.) the connection gets lost and the coil stops firing. the way to test for this, locate the ignition coil under the hood first of course, then when the vehicle dies, open the hood and wiggle the two gray and black connectors and try to start after this. if it starts, replace the coil and check the wiring to make sure the plastics haven't melted and the pins are straight and uniform. now the other repair i see all the time is the ignition control module. same principle on the heat concept, it heats up and shut off causing the vehicle to die. for testing this one, you should go get a simple inline spark tester from your local auto parts store that has a sight glass with a light. when the vehicle dies during driving, plug the tool inline with the ignition coil secondary ignition wire(coil wire, the large one of course) and if you have someone with you it might be easier, and crank the engine and watch for the spark to light up the light. if no spark, pretty much your looking at a failed ignition control module. 8 out 10 times i'd say this is the case. now, there may also be a crankshaft position sensor on your vehicle, depnding on the split of year, there was some turbo trucks that got the newer block and had the crankshaft sensor. this can also fail and does do so often, if this is the case, and your engine does have the crankshaft sensor, and you perform the spark test -the second one i spoke of with the inline tester- you may want to replace the sensor first. it is cheaper than the module, and easier to get to, it should be mounted right below/beside the harmonic balancer(front crankshaft pulley) and will have three wires. final note, do not perform the inline ignition test to test for the coil, only the wiggle test on the four small wires that are in the connectors, if it starts, this is the coil. hope you can decipher the long pargraph into form. if you need other assistance or have more questions, post a comment, i will check periodically.
Jun 30, 2010 |
Cars & Trucks