Question about Isuzu Pickup

3 Answers

How do i remove the transmission? All of the bolts are out, but the transmission won't come out.

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  • zeeswampgirl May 16, 2010

    This is the second expert that I am asking. Here goes... I am trying to remove the transmission on a 1995 Isuzu Pickup truck. I have removed everything around it, and have disconnected all of the bolts on the transmission, but it won't budge. I have a jack under it for safety. But, the thing won't budge an inch. What should I do?

  • zeeswampgirl May 16, 2010

    My question is...How do I remove the transmission from a 1995 Isuzu Pickup truck...Manual transmission after all of the bolts are removed, and everything else is out of the way of the transmission? It won't budge an inch. I have a jack under it for safety. I have remove all bolts from it, but it won't move.

  • zeeswampgirl May 16, 2010

    Hopefully so

  • zeeswampgirl May 16, 2010

    I don't know if it solved the problem as of yet. I will know tomorrow.

×

3 Answers

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  • Master
  • 834 Answers

The clutch throw-out/release bearing is locked into the clutch pressure plate assembly, and it must be dis-engaged from the clutch pressure plate before you can remove the transmission. You can use two large and long screwdrivers to reach in through the access cover opening and pry the throw-out/release bearing loose from the pressure plate assembly by inserting the flat head screwdriver blades in between the throw-out/release bearing and the pressure plate assembly, and then turn or twist the screwdriver handles and the throw-out/release bearing should pop loose from the pressure plate assembly and then you can remove the transmission.

Posted on May 16, 2010

  • Zaraki May 16, 2010

    Did that solve your problem or do you require any further assistance?

  • Zaraki May 16, 2010

    When you try to un-couple the transmission from the engine, be sure that you lower the jack that is supporting the transmission until the jack completely lowers down from contact with the transmission, and then jack the jack back up until it just barely contacts the transmission (you will find it very difficult to un-couple the transmission from the engine as long as the weight of the engine is being supported by the transmission and the jack, the weight of the engine should be supported by the motor mounts), and then you should have no problem un-coupling the transmission from the engine after the throw-out/release bearing has been popped loose from the pressure plate assembly. (when you do lower the jack under the transmission, watch under the hood to be certain that the fan blade is not going to be damaged by the radiator fan shroud, and the the rear of the engine does not damage any coolant lines between the rear of the engine and the firewall)



    Also, be sure that you to pry on both sides beween the throw-out/release bearing and the locking collar that is attached to the pressure plate assembly, and it looks like a thrust washer in between the throw-out/release bearing and the pressure plate diaphragm fingers.



    Be sure to also have the flywheel re-surfaced, the vehicle might shake or shutter when you release the clutch if you do not re-surface the flywheel, and also be sure to remove all of the old clutch material from the bell housing and on the rear of the engine after the flywheel is removed. If you are un-certain how to apply grease to the pivot points in the clutch then just let me know and I will assist you further.



    You should also only be using a complete matched clutch kit/set with a pilot bearing/bushing and a clutch disk alignment/pilot tool (you want the disk to be aligned with the pilot bearing so that the transmission will re-couple to the engine smoothly, any shaking or wobbling of the transmission when the input shaft of the transmission is passing through the clutch disk and the weight of the transmission could damage the clutch disk and early clutch failure will be the result) , that is if you want the best performance and life from the new clutch. You should rent a pilot bearing removal tool if you need to. Also you should use gasoline or brake cleaner on the pressure plate assembly clutch disk surface, and on the flywheel clutch disk surface just before you install the new clutch to remove any oil residue or packing preservatives/oils from the clutch disk surfaces. Do not use carburetor cleaner because it contains a light oil and will defeat the purpose.



    Also, do not warp the pressure plate, it will also cause a shaking or shuddering when you let up on the clutch, so be sure that you tighten down the pressure plate assembly evenly in a criss-cross pattern, and only one full turn on each pressure plate assembly bolt at a time until the pressure plate is solid against the flywheel, then you can fully tighten the pressure plate assembly bolts.

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  • Master
  • 10,515 Answers

Hi,


Kindly mention Year, Make and Model of the Car.

Let me know, so that we could Proceed.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Posted on May 16, 2010

  • zeeswampgirl May 16, 2010


    1995 isuzu pickup truck. I mentioned that in the first post and the second one.

×

Put the truck on jack stands and disconnect your battery. Remove driveshaft/starter and torq converter bolts if automatic transmission. If it is a standard transmission, remove slave cyl .shifter linkage. When everything is out of your way, remove the cross member underneath the transmission. If is is a six cylinder, don't let your distributor hit the firewall. Remove the bell housing bolts and the transmission should fall out. Support the transmission with a jack and don't get underneath the transmission because it is heavy.

Posted on May 16, 2010

  • zeeswampgirl May 16, 2010

    we did all of that, and the transmission won't budge. What could be wrong? All of the bolts are out. Everything is out of its way. We have a jack under it...it just won't move!

×

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How do I remove automatic transmission from 1993 Chev 2500 pickup?


TRANSMISSION REMOVAL IN STEPS.
The Drive Shaft
  • Using a 1/2-to-2-ton floor jack, lift the front of the truck and place jack stands under the frame. Once the truck is lifted enough for you to safely move around under it, begin removing the four bolts connecting the U-joint between the drive shaft and the rear axle. When you pull the drive shaft out of the tail shaft, transmission fluid will pour out of the tail shaft, so place a drip pan or oil-changing pan under the tail shaft of the transmission.
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  2. Punch out the spindle nut lock and loosen the spindle nut.
  3. Raise and support the vehicle and block the rear tires.
  4. Remove the wheel.
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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION C6
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. From in the engine compartment, remove the two upper converter housing-to-engine bolts.
  3. Disconnect the neutral switch wire at the in-line connector.
  4. Remove the bolt securing the fluid filler tube to the engine cylinder head.
  5. Raise and support the truck on jackstands.
  6. Place the drain pan under the transmission fluid pan. Starting at the rear of the pan and working toward the front, loosen the attaching bolts and allow the fluid to drain. Finally remove all of the pan attaching bolts except two at the front, to allow the fluid to further drain. With fluid drained, install two bolts on the rear side of the pan to temporarily hold it in place.
  7. Remove the converter drain plug access cover from the lower end of the converter housing.
  8. Remove the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts. Place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt to turn the converter to gain access to the nuts.
  9. With the wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt, turn the converter to gain access to the converter drain plug. Place a drain pan under the converter to catch the fluid and remove the plug. After the fluid has been drained, reinstall the plug.
  10. On 2WD drive models, disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and slide shaft rearward from the transmission. Install a seal installation tool in the extension housing to prevent fluid leakage.
  11. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing.
  12. Disconnect the downshift and manual linkage rods from the levers at the transmission.
  13. Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the transmission.
  14. Remove the vacuum hose from the vacuum diaphragm unit. Remove the vacuum line retaining clip.
  15. Disconnect the cable from the terminal on the starter motor. Remove the three attaching bolts and remove the starter motor.
  16. On 4WD drive models remove the transfer case.
  17. Remove the two engine rear support and insulator assembly-to-attaching bolts.
  18. Remove the two engine rear support and insulator assembly-to-extension housing attaching bolts.
  19. Remove the six bolts securing the No. 2 crossmember to the frame side rails.
  20. Raise the transmission with a transmission jack and remove both crossmembers.
  21. Secure the transmission to the jack with the safety chain.
  22. Remove the remaining converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts.
  23. Move the transmission away from the engine. Lower the jack and remove the converter and transmission assembly from under the vehicle. To install:
  24. Tighten the converter drain plug.
  25. Position the converter on the transmission making sure the converter drive flats are fully engaged in the pump gear.
  26. With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack. Secure the transmission on the jack with the chain.
  27. Rotate the converter until the studs and drain plug are in alignment with their holes in the flywheel.
  28. Move the converter and transmission assembly forward into position, using care not to damage the flywheel and the converter pilot. The converter must rest squarely against the flywheel. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.
  29. Install the converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts and tighten them to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm) for the diesel; 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) for gasoline engines.
  30. Remove the transmission jack safety chain from around the transmission.
  31. Position the No. 2 crossmember to the frame side rails. Install and tighten the attaching bolts.
  32. Install transfer case on 4WD drive models.
  33. Position the engine rear support and insulator assembly above the crossmember. Install the rear support and insulator assembly-to-extension housing mounting bolts and tighten the bolts to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).
  34. Lower the transmission and remove the jack.
  35. Secure the engine rear support and insulator assembly to the crossmember with the attaching bolts and tighten them to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
  36. The balance of installation is the reverse of removal.
AOD
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise the vehicle on hoist or stands.
  3. Place the drain pan under the transmission fluid pan. Starting at the rear of the pan and working toward the front, loosen the attaching bolts and allow the fluid to drain. Finally remove all of the pan attaching bolts except two at the front, to allow the fluid to further drain. With fluid drained, install two bolts on the rear side of the pan to temporarily hold it in place.
  4. Remove the converter drain plug access cover from the lower end of the converter.
  5. Remove the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts. Place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt to turn the converter to gain access to the nuts.
  6. Place a drain pan under the converter to catch the fluid. With the wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt, turn the converter to gain access to the converter drain plug and remove the plug. After the fluid has been drained, reinstall the plug.
  7. On 2WD drive models, matchmark and disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and slide shaft rearward from the transmission. Install a seal installation tool in the extension housing to prevent fluid leakage.
  8. Disconnect the cable from the terminal on the starter motor. Remove the three attaching bolts and remove the starter motor. Disconnect the neutral start switch wires at the plug connector.
  9. Remove the rear mount-to-crossmember attaching bolts and the two crossmember-to-frame attaching bolts.
  10. Remove the two engine rear support-to-extension housing attaching bolts.
  11. Disconnect the TV linkage rod from the transmission TV lever. Disconnect the manual rod from the transmission manual lever at the transmission.
  12. Remove the two bolts securing the bell crank bracket to the converter housing.
  13. On 4WD drive models, remove the transfer case.
  14. Raise the transmission with a transmission jack to provide clearance to remove the crossmember. Remove the rear mount from the crossmember and remove the crossmember from the side supports.
  15. Lower the transmission to gain access to the oil cooler lines.
  16. Disconnect each oil line from the fittings on the transmission.
  17. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing.
  18. Remove the bolt that secures the transmission fluid filler tube to the cylinder block. Lift the filler tube and the dipstick from the transmission.
  19. Secure the transmission to the jack with the chain.
  20. Remove the converter housing-to-cylinder block attaching bolts.
  21. Carefully move the transmission and converter assembly away from the engine and, at the same time, lower the jack to clear the underside of the vehicle.
  22. Remove the converter and mount the transmission in a holding fixture.
  23. Tighten the converter drain plug. To install:
  24. Position the converter on the transmission, making sure the converter drive flats are fully engaged in the pump gear by rotating the converter.
  25. With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack. Secure the transmission to the jack with a chain.
  26. Rotate the converter until the studs and drain plug are in alignment with the holes in the flywheel.
  27. Move the converter and transmission assembly forward into position, using care not to damage the flywheel and the converter pilot. The converter must rest squarely against the flywheel. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.
  28. Install and tighten the converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts to 40-50 ft. lbs. (54-68 Nm).
  29. The balance of installation is the reverse of removal.
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Nov 03, 2010 | 1991 Ford F150

1 Answer

How to remove a transmission for a 2002 GMC Yukon


Removal & Installation 4L60E/4L65E To Remove:
  1. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Transmission fluid
    • Transmission oil level indicator tube and seal from the transmission
    • Plug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
    • Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Shift cable end from the transmission shift lever ball stud
    • If equipped with a transfer case, remove the front propeller shaft.
    • Rear propeller shaft.
  2. Plug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Starter motor.
    • Transfer case, if equipped.
  4. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
  5. Remove the transmission mount nuts.
  6. Remove the transmission crossmember.
  7. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Torque converter access plug 4L60E/4L65E removal 9308kg37.gif

    • Flywheel to torque converter bolts
    • The two bolts securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission
    • The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness from the transmission
    • The stud and the bolt securing the transmission to the engine
    • The six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Install tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter. Pull the transmission straight back.
    • The transmission from the vehicle
  8. Flush the transmission oil cooler and cooling lines when you remove the transmission.
To Install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter.
    • Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
  2. Raise the transmission into place and remove the tool from the transmission.
  3. Slide the transmission straight onto the locating pins while lining up the marks on the flywheel and the torque converter. The torque converter must be flush onto the flywheel and rotate freely by hand.
  4. Install or connect the following:
    • Six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the studs and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • Stud and bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • Flywheel to torque converter bolts. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 46 Nm (63 ft. lbs.).
    • Torque converter access plug.
    • Transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness to the transmission.
    • Two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission. Tighten the bolt to 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
    • Two bolts securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
    • Install the transmission crossmember. Tighten the nuts and bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
  5. Remove the transmission jack from the transmission.
  6. Unplug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
  7. Install or connect the following:
    • Starter
    • Transmission oil cooler lines to the transmission
    • If equipped with a transfer case, install the front propeller shaft.
    • The rear propeller shaft
    • The shift cable end to the transmission shift lever ball stud
  8. Unplug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
  9. Install the transmission oil level indicator tube and seal to the transmission.
  10. Tighten the oil pan bolts and fill the transmission with transmission fluid.
  11. Lower the vehicle.
4L80E/4L85E To Remove:
  1. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Transmission fluid
    • Transmission oil level indicator tube and seal from the transmission
  2. Plug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Shift cable from the transmission shift lever ball stud
    • If 4WD vehicle, remove the propeller shaft.
    • If RWD vehicle, remove the propeller shaft.
    • The transmission oil cooler lines from the transmission
  4. Plug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
  5. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Starter motor
  6. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
  7. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • The two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission
    • The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness from the transmission
    • One nut and one bolt securing the transmission brace to the engine bracket and transmission
    • The two bolts securing the torque converter cover to the engine
    • The four bolts securing the torque converter cover to the transmission
    • The six flywheel to torque converter bolts
    • The two bolts and nut securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission
    • The stud and the bolt on the right side securing the transmission to the engine
    • The remaining six studs and the one bolt securing the transmission to the engine
    • Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter
    4L80E/4L85E removal 9308kg36.gif

  8. Pull the transmission straight back. Remove the transmission from the vehicle.
  9. Flush the transmission oil cooler and cooling lines when you remove the transmission.
To Install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter
  2. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
  3. Raise the transmission into place and remove the tool from the transmission.
  4. Slide the transmission straight onto the locating pins while lining up the marks on the flywheel and the torque converter. The torque converter must be flush onto the flywheel and rotate freely by hand.
  5. Install or connect the following:
    • Six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the studs and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • The stud and bolt on the right side securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • Six flywheel to torque converter bolts. Tighten the bolts to 60 Nm (44 ft. lbs.).
    • The two bolts securing the torque converter cover to the engine. Tighten the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • The four bolts securing the torque converter cover to the transmission. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 33 Nm (24 ft. lbs.).
    • The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness to the transmission.
    • The two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission. Tighten the bolt to 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
    • The two bolts and nut securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission. Tighten the bolts and nut to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
    • The flywheel to torque converter bolts.
    • One nut and one bolt securing the transmission brace to the engine bracket and transmission. Tighten the bolts and nut to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
  6. Remove the transmission jack from the transmission.
  7. Install or connect the following:
    • Starter motor
  8. Unplug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
  9. Connect the transmission oil cooler lines to the transmission.
  10. Install or connect the following:
    • The transfer case
    • The rear propeller shaft
    • The shift cable end to the transmission shift lever ball stud
  11. Unplug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
  12. Install the transmission oil level indicator tube and seal to the transmission.
  13. Tighten the oil pan bolts and fill the transmission with transmission fluid.
  14. Lower the vehicle.
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Oct 12, 2010 | 2002 GMC Yukon XL

1 Answer

How does transmission come out


prev.gif next.gif Transmission Assembly REMOVAL & INSTALLATION C6
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. From in the engine compartment, remove the two upper converter housing-to-engine bolts.
  3. Disconnect the neutral switch wire at the in-line connector.
  4. Remove the bolt securing the fluid filler tube to the engine cylinder head.
  5. Raise and support the truck on jackstands.
  6. Place the drain pan under the transmission fluid pan. Starting at the rear of the pan and working toward the front, loosen the attaching bolts and allow the fluid to drain. Finally remove all of the pan attaching bolts except two at the front, to allow the fluid to further drain. With fluid drained, install two bolts on the rear side of the pan to temporarily hold it in place.
  7. Remove the converter drain plug access cover from the lower end of the converter housing.
  8. Remove the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts. Place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt to turn the converter to gain access to the nuts.
  9. With the wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt, turn the converter to gain access to the converter drain plug. Place a drain pan under the converter to catch the fluid and remove the plug. After the fluid has been drained, reinstall the plug.
  10. On 2WD drive models, disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and slide shaft rearward from the transmission. Install a seal installation tool in the extension housing to prevent fluid leakage.
  11. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing.
  12. Disconnect the downshift and manual linkage rods from the levers at the transmission.
  13. Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the transmission.
  14. Remove the vacuum hose from the vacuum diaphragm unit. Remove the vacuum line retaining clip.
  15. Disconnect the cable from the terminal on the starter motor. Remove the three attaching bolts and remove the starter motor.
  16. On 4WD drive models remove the transfer case.
  17. Remove the two engine rear support and insulator assembly-to-attaching bolts.
  18. Remove the two engine rear support and insulator assembly-to-extension housing attaching bolts.
  19. Remove the six bolts securing the No. 2 crossmember to the frame side rails.
  20. Raise the transmission with a transmission jack and remove both crossmembers.
  21. Secure the transmission to the jack with the safety chain.
  22. Remove the remaining converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts.
  23. Move the transmission away from the engine. Lower the jack and remove the converter and transmission assembly from under the vehicle. To install:
  24. Tighten the converter drain plug.
  25. Position the converter on the transmission making sure the converter drive flats are fully engaged in the pump gear.
  26. With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack. Secure the transmission on the jack with the chain.
  27. Rotate the converter until the studs and drain plug are in alignment with their holes in the flywheel.
  28. Move the converter and transmission assembly forward into position, using care not to damage the flywheel and the converter pilot. The converter must rest squarely against the flywheel. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.
  29. Install the converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts and tighten them to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm) for the diesel; 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) for gasoline engines.
  30. Remove the transmission jack safety chain from around the transmission.
  31. Position the No. 2 crossmember to the frame side rails. Install and tighten the attaching bolts.
  32. Install transfer case on 4WD drive models.
  33. Position the engine rear support and insulator assembly above the crossmember. Install the rear support and insulator assembly-to-extension housing mounting bolts and tighten the bolts to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).
  34. Lower the transmission and remove the jack.
  35. Secure the engine rear support and insulator assembly to the crossmember with the attaching bolts and tighten them to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
  36. The balance of installation is the reverse of removal.

Aug 26, 2010 | 1993 Ford F250

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