Question about 1986 Toyota 4Runner
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: we are putting a clutch
Hi. Welcome to FixYa. I will do my best to assist you, with the hopes that you will award me with a FixYa rating for my assistance.
What I do, in my service department, is to pull the transmission and the transfer case as on unit. It is faster, and much simpler. There is no reason to pull them separately. That is way too much work.
I hope that this helps you out.
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Posted on Jan 30, 2009
SOURCE: 4X4 not working
You should first check the 4WD actuator it is located on your front axle it has two wires going to it most of these are cylindrical and 3 to 4 inches long by two inches in diameter. Check by shifting in to 4h driving a few feet and lifting both front tires off the ground. Make shore to use good jack stands or blocks as you will have to get under the truck. Chek to see if actuator is working by rotating one tire if the other tire rotates the opposite way as the tire you are turning the actuator is working. if not change actuator if the actuator is good check the front drive shaft there is a spline on the drive shaft that can ware out and will slip. The transfer case could also be the problem but it is not common. over full transfer case would not cause the problem.
Posted on Jan 05, 2009
Diagram is unnecessry.
Pull both front wheels
Work one at a time leaving the other for reference
Find the retention spring ... its a paperclip thickness wire spring... dislodge center retention loop and undo from both ends which engage brake pad retention rods.
Pull the rods out
Pull the old pads out... laying everything on the ground
Use scrap wooden wedges to pry between the rotor and the caliper ...inside and out until the calipers are fully withdrawn. Use the new pads to measure if they are far enough back.
Note... the brake fluid will have dropped in the master cylinder over many months of wear... do not fill it. When the calipers are pushed back they will fill the reservoir again... one wheel at a time.
Be sure to identify the correct pad based on what you took out and what is on the other side (if you screwed up the layout)
Make sure to take the old antisqueek backing plate from the old pad and place it on the new pad. They don't use lubricant on these anymore.
Replace the pads... the retention rods... then the retention spring
Do the other side
Then progressively step on the brake peddle until full tension is felt
Check the master cylinder reservoir... probably needs no additional fluid.
New pads will register in existing ridges in each disc in no time at all.
You should check the discs to see if they need to be replaced during this operation...using some calipers
Posted on Mar 25, 2009
at 50,000 miles there is really no need. i would wait and save up that money and do a transmission flush 7- 10 quarts of toyota f-type fluid can be costly but a flush removes all of the fluid and garnish along with any fine shavings (normal wear and tear) out of the tranny and replaces it with new clean fluid. normal intervals would be at about 80-100,000 miles. you should be able to find preventative maintenance schedules in your owners manual. if not any repair facility would have it on their computer.
Posted on May 30, 2009
There is a heater core bypass pipe that runs from the block (under the manifold) to the bacl of theengine where you will see a flat rectangular "sheet metal" thing with a pipe coming out of it. The a rubber hose connects. You need to pull the top air plenums and intake to get to it. The p[ipe flange bolts to the block with silicone rtv as a sealant.
Posted on Nov 27, 2009
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