Question about 1994 Mitsubishi Expo

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How can i disable the immobiliser on my fto. The key fob has broken and it wont let me start the engine :-(

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Is the alarm / immobilizer factory or aftermarket? If it's aftermarket you will either have to purchase and program a new key fob or completely remove the system and reconnect which ever cuts were made in the wiring.

Posted on May 15, 2010

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Having problems with my immobilizer on my fto car won't start any tips how I can fix this cheers

Posted on Jan 17, 2014


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My second hand 2004 Mitsubishi Outlander immobiliser fob has stopped working and i can no longer start my engine. I only have one immobiliser fob and one non-remote/buttonless engine key.

The immobiliser works with a chip in the fob. This is a signalling device which, via a pick-up situated around the ignition lock, sends the signal to the engine computor which the allows the engine to be started.

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You have a fob with the key?
If the key is broken it won't be recognised by the security system. As such the immobiliser won't disable itself to allow you to start the vehicle, because your key isn't being recognised.

You need another key. You either have to go to the dealer or to an autoshop that can cut and program the key for you

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check whether the chip still inside the key fob,possible lost on any time dropped,or if you were putting the fob on any electric machine ( washing machine,micro wave,fridge, tv etc lost memo and need to get reset.

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Toyota avensis 1.8 gls petrol engine 1997 car turns over but cuts off immediately. mechanic checked fuel pump, spark, plugs, electrics, coils etc. hes checked everything without luck. i think its...

It could be the immobiliser but the anti-theft device usually prevents some essential engine ingredient from working and so prevents the engine being started. Sometimes more than a single thing is disabled. The mechanic would surely have detected if the spark or injector pulse was absent.
Often there is a visual indication of whether the immobiliser is disarmed via a flashing led. The vehicle handbook should give details about this.

You are in fact saying the engine is starting but cutting out immediately. I wonder if it keeps running if the key isn't released from the start position. I wonder if it cuts off when the key is released from the start position and it returns to the on position?
If this is so it might indicate an ignition switch problem . If it is wired to boost the spark during cranking it could also indicate a broken wire, fusebox or relay problems. A wiring diagram would be necessary...

To take it further the spark, injector pulse and fuel pressure would need monitoring during the starting of the engine and the moment it cuts out in order to discover what is absent and then use the wiring diagram to trace it backwards to find a reason.

The immobiliser key transponder chip is quite robust and draws no power from the fob or plip battery. If the immobiliser is giving trouble it could be an expensive repair but the alternative is to have the engine management ECU decoded so the car would then start from the key as in the old days...

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2008 Hyundai i30. 2.0 litre petrol. (Elantra selected, since I believe i30 is same basic engine system as the Elantra, and i30 is not a provided option for my model on this forum). Car won't start. Engine...

Interesting problem.. since not US spec. Is there a 'remote keyless (fob)' programmed for this vehicle? That's the only way to DE-arm the immobilizer (anti-theft) feature (based on US specs). Unless you have this key fob (keyless entry remote... which must also be programmed for this vehicle), the only other way is wait 5 minutes with the existing key in the ignition, then it should start (US specs). You will still need to have an 'ACTIVE' keyless remote programmed for this vehicle... otherwise, you'll continue to run into this problem.

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just unplug the immobiliser unit. its behind the glove compartment for rhd models.

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