What would cause my 1997 buick park ave tachometer to drop down to zero when driving speeds of 50 mph or so ? I can feel car bogging out ,losing power then tach. drops to zero car will almost stall but has never actually died ,if i hold foot steady on gas it keeps losing power if i step on gas it feels like something was cloged and broke through as i pick up speed It feels like it go's into passing gear and runs fine for a while , but the tach won't kick back on intill I turn car off and on again ,
we;ve changed the fuel filter &oil filter so we know it's not that ,the service engine light was on and when it started losing power the ck engine light went haywire blinking & beeping ,i do need a tune up , but would that cause the tach. to drop to zero ? my husband power washed the engine could that of loosen anything that would of caused that to happen , Thankyou ,
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Mar 17, 2012 - 19 posts - 7 authors
[Archive] Enginge surges RPMS drop while driving OEM Issues. ... I so hope somebody has a clue as to what is causing my '02 Envoy's (182k) engine to ... I'll be driving and when I get up to around 35 - 45 MPH sometimes my ...
no I don't think so , it is only the torque converter clutch engaging and disengaging due to engine load. if you want to test this. go on steady speed over 50 mph no gas pedal movement. touch lightly the brake pedal but not braking and release . during this see the rpm drop down and raise
Disc brakes have a tendency to do this as they are usually a semi-metallic composition. They built up a "glaze" over time and that causes the squealing. You can take them off and sand off the glaze but it will come back. Try this... Go out in an open parking lot with no cars around and drive at 35-40 mph then brake hard. Do this a couple of times and it will TEMPORARILY remove the glaze. Next time you buy new brakes ask for a non-metallic composition brake...
If speedometer which is bouncing around, it is likely a bad ground near where the speed sensor wire harness (which connects the speed sensor to the rest of the "network") exits the transmission housing. It's at the very back of the transmission (you have a 4T60E trans) to the left of where the right side half-shaft leaves the trans housing. Just look for damaged wires. If none, replace the speed sensor for $50-60.
If it is the fuel gage, the sensor is probably not "zeroed"--it's reading wrong, too high, and if it were to start at true "empty", it would read right. Thus, the gage is always reading a little high (maybe a 1/8-1/10th of a tank too high?). This isn't a problem until to stop, start, or turn quickly and cause the fule to slosh around in the tank and starve the in-tank pickup which sends fuel to the engine.
If it is the fuel gage, you should simply put as much fuel in as you can and see if the needle goes far above "F". If it does, note how far it went and then practice filling the tank when the needle is that same distance above "E".
your car is suffering from a faulty speed sensor. it works by using a signal generator in the transmission that creates an electrical signal in relationship to vehicle speed. This information is processed by the vehicle’s computer for engine and transmission management and provides the signal for the body computer that controls the speedometer. If the speed sensor itself fails then this might be the reason behind your problems. in addition, another cause of this may be that harness my be loose connecting to the transmission or behind the speedometer. there are multiple pins connecting behind the speedometer, and sometimes when one of those pins are not properly connected it gives a problem like yours.