Question about 2000 Volkswagen Cabrio

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How do I remove the spline bolts holding the driver's side cv joint to the transmission? May have clearance issues trying to remove bolts. 2002 vw Cabrio

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6 Suggested Answers

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1010 Answers

SOURCE: removal of cv joint

Go to a mechanic, safe way...

Posted on Jun 22, 2008


SOURCE: code for a 2002 vw cabrio radio

You have to go to the dealership and fork over $50 to get it. Unless you or the previous owner wrote it in the manual or anywhere else on the car, that's the only way.

Posted on Aug 26, 2008

  • 5568 Answers

SOURCE: Noise - similar to a worn out CV joint on cornering

10 years is not a long lifetime and wear is far more dependent on mileage. If it is over the 100, 000 mile mark, it wouldn't be unusual to have problems. A number of FWD cars have two CV joints (inner tripodal and outer) so checking only outer CVs may not find the problem. If the car is not a AWD vehicle, it would make sense to raise both front wheels from the ground and then with running engine, go through the gears and simulate the condition under which the problem shows up on the road. This may not be conclusive since the problem might not occur with no load on the drive wheels.

Posted on Nov 18, 2008

  • 286 Answers

SOURCE: vw polo driveshaft torx splines problems

Hi Ammar

If your torx bolt splines are shot.

Hammer on the surface face, with a long round drift to loosen the bolt threads slightly, and close up the torx hole, and try the torx splined socket again.

If no good try mole grips on the head of the bolt to loosen it.

If not enough room for them, try a chisel on the outer edge of the bolt, this normally does it.

Failing this try hammering on a slightly smaller external socket, than the head of the bolt, then try removing.

Good Luck !

Let me know how you get on.

A FixYa rating would be nice !


Posted on Feb 16, 2009

  • 607 Answers

SOURCE: cv boot clamp came off somehow from the outer hub assembly

athere is a snap ring within the CV joint the nedds to be spread OPEN to release CV joint from axle, Once CV is cleaned and repacked with grease rintall onto axle by again spreading apart clamp. Prior to installing CV joint slide NEW CV joint boot onto axle, Cleanly intall add'l grrease and reinstall CV boot.

Posted on Apr 04, 2009

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1 Answer

How to remove1995 cavalier transmission

The transmission is transversely mounted in these vehicles. The mount that secures the transmission to the body is also supporting the engine. If you want to remove the transmission without also removing the engine you will have to support the engine once you remove the transmission mount. You will need to remove the drivers side wheel, caliper, and rotor. You then need to remove the drivers side CV shaft. You will need to separate the lower ball joint in order to remove the shaft and to provide working room to separate the transmission from the engine. You need to disconnect the Shift cable (automatic) or slave cylinder (manual) from the transmission. You must separate the passengers side CV shaft from the transmission, but you do not need to full y remove it. Ensure that you do not separate the inner CV joint when pulling the transmission free from the inner splines. Remove the flywheel shield plate. If automatic transmission, unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel. Disconnect any electrical connections from the transmission. If automatic transmission, disconnect the hydraulic lines running to the radiator. Unbolt the transmission from the engine at the bell housing. Automatic transmissions will come out fairly easy...manuals you must pull back to disengage the transmission splines from the clutch disc.

Sep 07, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I cant remove the metal end and spline inside of my kia sedona

Try to get a pry bar or large screwdriver between the CV housing and the transmission case. A little force may be required, but you have to pop the housing out of the transmission. A c-clip in a groove on the splined shaft is holding the shaft in, and must be popped outward, for the housing and shaft to be removed.

Nov 25, 2013 | 2003 Kia Sedona

1 Answer

I have honda city 1994 model, pls advice me on how to change front wheel axle/cv joint/boot thanks madaan

  • Loosen the lug nuts (turning counter-clockwise) to finger tight on the front wheel with the damaged CV joint. Buy, borrow or rent a CV nut socket. Some auto parts stores will sell you one for about $30 and refund your money when you return it. Because the CV nut in the center of the wheel hub is locked in place with a safety tab, it is loosened initially with a long breaker bar or a hollow pipe placed over the ratchet handle to increase the torque needed to break the nut free. Loosen to finger tightness.
  • 2 Set safety brakes and jack up the front of the car toward the side of the damaged CV joint using at least a 2 1/2-ton jack. Both the car and the jack should be on a hard, level surface and the lifting point must be a load-bearing member on the chassis or engine cradle. Place two jack stands under the front end and slowly lower the car onto the jack stands so the car chassis is fully resting on the stands. Now, pull out the jack and move it out of the way.
  • 3 Remove the wheel lug nuts and pull off the wheel from the hub. If it doesn't cooperate, kick the bottom of the tire sidewall with the back of your heel or the flat of your hand to dislodge it. Unscrew the center CV nut. To dislodge the male spline outboard end of the CV joint that fits into the female spline in the back of the wheel hub, take the CV nut and screw it back on three or four turns, then strike it with a hammer to partially disengage the splines.
  • 4 Remove the ball joint stud on the lower control arm from its socket in the spindle behind the wheel hub, after you remove a locking bolt, cotter pin or other device that holds the ball joint stud that protrudes from the lower control arm. Then, wedge a pry bar (called a pickle fork) between the tie rod and sway bar. To gain greater leverage, insert the pry bar handle into a length of pipe and apply downward pressure to remove the ball joint stud from the spindle.
  • 5 Remove the CV joint and shaft. With the lower ball joint disconnected from the wheel spindle, the hub can be moved to the side just enough to remove the outer CV joint from the spindle socket in the back of the wheel hub. Do not stretch the brake line that is attached to the wheel brake cylinder as you move the hub aside. With the outboard end of the shaft free of the wheel, pull the shaft straight out from the transmission housing. Because of the labor involved with repairing or replacing CV joints, it's more cost effective to simply replace the entire shaft assembly including the two CV joints and boots.
  • 6 Install the new shaft and CV joint assembly. Clean the transmission seal that came off the old unit; pack it with grease and place it over the inboard spline of the new unit before inserting new shaft into transmission. Make sure splines are lined up before tapping the other end of the shaft with a hammer to seat it in its socket. Carefully insert the other end of the shaft back into the wheel hub and loosely thread on the new CV bolt that came with the assembly.
  • 7 Reinstall the ball joint stud into the spindle by re-inserting the pry bar between the tie rod and the sway bar and leveraging down the lower control arm with the ball joint stud positioned just under the spindle hole. Then release pressure on the pry bar so the ball joint stud re-seats into the spindle. Push the wheel hub all the way onto the shaft spline to seat and torque down the CV nut tight. With a flat head screwdriver tap the lip of the new CV nut into the groove cut into the screw end. Now, re-attach the ball joint locking bolt, put the tire back, replace lug nuts and tighten. Remove the car from the jack stands and finish tightening the tire lug nuts.

  • Dec 25, 2010 | 1994 Honda Prelude

    1 Answer

    Replace c-v joint

  • Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands. Using the ½-inch air gun, remove the wheels. Use the wire cutters to remove the cotter pin in the lower ball joint.

  • Unscrew and remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the mounting bracket. The bolts run through the caliper from the engine side. Remove the caliper, but do not let it hang by its hose.

  • Use a wrench to take the nut off of the lower ball joint. Insert the ball joint removal tool in between the spindle and the lower control arm. Hit the tool with the hammer until the ball joint comes loose.

  • Use the ½-inch air gun and the proper socket to remove the large nut on the end of the CV axle. This is the one in the center of the rotor. Push the axle in toward the engine slightly, just to make sure it is loose. If it is not loose, tap it with a hammer.

  • Use the ½ inch air gun and an 18mm socket to remove the two large bolts in the base of the strut where it is attached to the spindle. Pull the spindle from the strut to separate the two.

  • Grab the rotor and lift the lower ball joint out of the spindle. Pull the CV joint out of the spindle and then place the lower ball joint on the spindle back into the lower control arm to hold it there.

  • Insert the pry bar between the inner CV joint and the transmission. Use a fast yank on the pry bar to pry the CV joint from the transmission.

  • Insert the new CV joint into the transmission as far as it will go by hand. The CV joint has a snap ring on the end that is going in the transmission. It gives a little resistance to going in. Use both hands and pull the outer end out about 1 inch and then slam it in toward the engine. This quick movement will get the CV joint to seat in the transmission. Check to make sure that the CV joint is all the way in before proceeding--look at the distance between the CV joint and the transmission.

  • Insert the outer end of the CV shaft into the spindle and rotate the rotor slightly to get the splines to line up. Push it in until the tip of the axle begins to come out the outside of the spindle enough to get the large nut on. Put the large nut on a couple of turns. Put the nut back on the lower ball joint but do not tighten it yet.

  • 0

    Push the spindle back into the lower mounting point on the strut and insert the two large bolts and nuts. Use the ½-inch air gun to tighten securely. Use a wrench to tighten the nut on the lower ball joint. Insert the cotter pin below the nut for safety.

  • 11

    Tighten down the large axle nut securely with the ½-inch air gun. Put the brake caliper back on and insert the two bolts through the caliper and tighten. Replace the wheels and the lug n

  • Sep 15, 2010 | 1994 Ford Escort

    1 Answer

    Need diagram on what has to be removed to replace the driver side trans axle

    Not much to it,
    remove wheel,remove axle nut,remove bolt and nut that pinch lower ball joint in place,it will either be an 18mm or a 21mm,pry lower control down to detach and separate ball joint,tap CV shaft in where you took the nut off,
    hold out on rotor assembly while pushing CV shaft in ward,When you have the CV out of the bearing and rotor assembly,Tap inside CV joint out of transmission.

    Dec 16, 2009 | 1996 Plymouth Grand Voyager

    1 Answer

    Do I have to remove the control arm to replace the half shaft on a 2005 Ford Freestar?

    no, here's the procedure for 2002 windstar, should be similar. please rate, thanks.

    NOTE: This procedure applies to both the LH and RH halfshaft assemblies.
    1. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
    1. Remove the front wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
    1. Insert a steel rod in the brake disc to prevent the halfshaft from turning while removing the front axle wheel end nut.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: The front axle wheel end nut is a torque prevailing design nut. Do not reuse it.
      Remove the nut and washer.
      • Remove the steel rod in the brake disc.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif WARNING: Remove or tape the brake pads to prevent them from falling out of the anchor plate.
      s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: To prevent damage to the brake hose, do not allow the disc brake caliper to hang suspended from the hose.
      Remove the bolts and position the disc brake caliper aside.
    1. Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor harness from the clip.
    1. Remove and discard the nut and bolt.
      • If necessary, use a punch and a hammer to drive the bolt out of the knuckle.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Position the end of the pry bar outside the bushing pocket to avoid damage to the bushing.
      s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the front wheel driveshaft joint boot (3A331).
      Separate the front suspension lower arm from the knuckle.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Never use a hammer to separate the front wheel driveshaft joint (3B413) from the wheel hub. Damage to the joint threads and internal components can result.
      Using the special tool, press on the front wheel driveshaft joint until it is loose in the wheel hub.
    1. Rotate the front wheel knuckle rearward, while pulling it outward at the bottom and remove the front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub.
    1. Using a pry bar, separate the inboard CV joint housing assembly (3B436) (3B437) from the transaxle.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the differential seal.
      Remove the halfshaft assembly with both hands.
    1. Lubricate the differential seal.
      • Use MERCON® V Automatic Transmission Fluid XT-5-QM or equivalent meeting MERCON® V specifications.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Install a new circlip every time you remove the halfshaft from the vehicle.
      On the RH side halfshaft only, install a new circlip in the groove in the inboard CV joint stub shaft.
      • Start one end in the groove and work the circlip over the shaft and into the groove. This will prevent the circlip from over-expanding.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the inboard CV joint housing assembly and the differential seal.
      NOTE: If necessary, use a non-metallic mallet to aid in seating the circlip in the differential side gear groove (RH) or inboard CV joint housing (LH). Tap only on the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint.
      Align the inboard CV joint housing splines with the differential side gear splines (RH) or output shaft splines (LH), and push the inboard CV joint housing assembly inward until the circlip seats in the differential side gear (RH) or inboard CV joint housing (LH).
    1. Align the front wheel driveshaft joint splines and the wheel hub splines, and push the joint into the wheel hub as far as possible.
    1. Install the washer and the old nut. Using the old nut, seat the front wheel driveshaft joint in the hub. Remove the old nut and discard it.
    1. Connect the suspension lower arm to the knuckle.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Install a new bolt and nut.
      Install the new bolt and nut.
    1. Insert a steel rod in the brake disc to prevent the halfshaft from turning while installing the new front axle wheel end nut.
    1. Apply a small patch of Loctite 242 or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G351-A5 to the last five front wheel driveshaft joint threads.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Install and tighten the new front axle wheel end nut to specification in a continuous rotation. Stopping the rotation during installation will cause the nylon lock to set incorrectly. This will cause incorrect torque readings while tightening the nut, and lead to bearing failure. Always install a new front axle wheel end nut after loosening the nut, or when the nut has not been installed to specification in a continuous rotation.
      Install and tighten the new nut to specification in a continuous rotation.
      • Remove the steel rod from the brake disc.
    1. Position the disc brake caliper and install the bolts.
    1. Install the front brake anti-lock sensor harness in the clip.
    1. Install the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
    1. Lower the vehicle.
    1. Check and, if necessary, fill the transaxle to the correct level with the specified fluid. For additional information, refer to Section 307-01 .

    Nov 15, 2009 | 2005 Ford Freestar

    2 Answers

    I changed my front right cv joint and now the clanking/grinding wound is worse and my bakes arent working but there is enough fluid

    The CV joint has nothing to do with the brakes you probably put something back wrong because you had to remove the Caliper and Brake pads.
    The CV joint you probably never replaced the C clip which keeps the shaft spline from going out into the hub. The CV joint also has to be synchronized. Which means they have to line up on both sides. Most will mark the shaft first, before removing.

    Jul 03, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet Cavalier

    1 Answer

    Cv joint on driver side needs replacing

    Hi there. You really need to replace the whole cv saft on the side that is noisy. Changing just the joint is possible but requires pulling the shaft anyway and is not very probable since the cost and extra labor are as much as buying a new shaft. In either case you will pull your front wheel and brake assembley off the culprit side. Once this is done, you will need to seperate the lower controlarm from the hub via the lower ball joint. This can be done with prybars, but its hard and you will probably rip the rubber boot on the balljoint so its best to use a balljoint press available in many autoparts stores rent-a-tool programs. Once the ball joint is removed you should be able to pull the hub assembley out tword you enough to remove the cv shaft splines from the hub. If you do not have enough room, you may need to seperate the tie rod end as well. You can use the ball joint press for this as well. Once the splined end of the shaft is free of the hub, take a pry bar and find a place on the other end of the shaft where you can pry it out away from the transmission. Sometimes this requires giving it a quick **** to pop it out but there are no bolts or anything holding it. Do becareful not to put the prybar against any breakable components. Once shes out put your new one in the trans and shove it until it clicks in. Put the outer end into the hub before reconnecting the ball joint other wise your not likley to get it in and will have to seperate the joint again. After that you just put ypur brakes and stuff together and you are good to go.

    Mar 17, 2009 | 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser

    2 Answers

    Cv joint

    If you have a decent mechanical background than you should be able to do this yourself. If you dont you should leave it to pros

    Feb 05, 2009 | 2002 Audi A4

    1 Answer

    How to remove the cv joint

    first you remove the center nut to the axle.... then remove the lower ball joint...... then remove the wishbone strut bolt on the bottom...... spray the axel splines with a wd40 or equivalent.... push the axle out of the hub........ use a pry bar to remove from the transmission reverse installation

    Oct 21, 2008 | 1994 Honda Accord

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