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I need to know how to change rear sub frame rubber bush

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2006 hyandai sonata, does it have greese fittings


Often mysterious squeaks are from dry torsion bars bushings. There are two of them mounted to the engine "sub frame." My wife's Ford Focus has this issue as well. It squeaks when driving ove rthe curb onto the driveway. The solution is to unbolt the two hold-down clamps that secure the torsion bar to the subframe then apply soime silicone grease inside the rubber bushing so that the rubber will no longer "grab" when the torsion bar moves.

Mar 03, 2015 | 2006 Hyundai Sonata

1 Answer

2001 Buick LeSabre Ltd. 128,000 miles. All new front struts and rear air shocks and stabilizer links. Even before that I get a creak (sounds like rubber) from both front sides when I go 15 mph over sp


Sounds like it could possibly be the upper or lower control arm bushings squeaking. There may possibly be a grease fitting on the control arm bushings, if so, have them greased. In fact get a complete grease job from a qualified mechanic. If the squeak stops then you know what is wrong. Then make sure you keep your care properly greased. Usually every time you change your oil or at least twice yearly.

Oct 29, 2014 | 2001 Buick LeSabre Limited

1 Answer

I have a loud grinding noise on the undercarriage of my car and I have discovered that the noise is coming from the bushings that hold the frame under the engine and transmission. What is that part...


Sub frame bushings. Call your local GM dealer. They will know exactly what you need and I believe have everything you need to replace in a kit.

Sep 08, 2013 | 2001 Buick LeSabre

1 Answer

Rear axle bang


check the rear diff mounts and the rear sub frame mounts for wear if they are mounted on rubber bushes they may be perrished or split.


let me know if this helps

cheers mike

Jul 31, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What does a stabalizer bar look like on a 96 dodge caravan


About 1" bar runs from side to side behind/near steering rack to each side, held on with "U" shaped brackets and rubber bushings. Rear runs from frame rail to frame rail and attaches to axle housing with same type of bracket and rubber bushings. Similar to "U" shape bending in a few places, and connected by links/struts at ends.

Feb 20, 2012 | 1996 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

My carfeels like it wants to crab walk if doing over 60kmh ......... could it be a rear strut


Sounds unsafe to drive. Before risking life and limb further I would give the car a thorough inspection on each corner. First check that the wheels run true and that no play is detectable in the bearings or in the ball joints in the control arms, use a pry bar to push and lever all the links. Check all the rubber bushings to ensure that they are in good condition. Check the sub frame rubber bushings likewise. Absolutely nothing should be lose or floppy even under strong provocation by the pry bar. Check the ball joints in the steering control arms. Finally If there is nothing obvious I would take it to a garage and have the wheel alignment checked. They will determine any underlying fault in the car geometry

Sep 09, 2010 | Ford Laser Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Link on rear torsion bar loose and rattles.What do I need to buy


You need tourchase a swaybar link kit,a set of torches speeds up the job,but it can be done with 1/2 inch drive gear.

Dec 17, 2009 | 1996 Mercury Cougar XR7

1 Answer

2002 pontiac grand am rack and pinion replacement how to


Removing the rack and pinion assembly from a 2002 Pontiac Grand Am Se To get the old rack and pinion off of the car for replacement involves lowering the sub-frame, removing the stabilizer bar, and pulling the rack out from the driver side of the vehicle.
  • Start by lifting or jacking up the car and removing the front wheels. Once the car is safely supported, disconnect both tie rods from the steering knuckles.
  • The rear motor mount sits on top of the cross-member part of the sub-frame, and must be disconnected to allow the sub-frame to drop a few inches. Remove the three bolts attaching it to the center of the sub-frame - one in the back and two in the front near the back of the transmission.
  • Loosen the two bolts holding the front of the sub-frame. Place a scissor jack or bottle jack under the rear of the sub-frame where the bolt for the motor mount was. Remove the two smaller bolts from each side of the rear of the sub-frame (total 4 bolts) and then loosen the two remaining larger bolts holding the rear of the sub-frame (these bolts go through the rear control arm bushings and are very long) until the bolts are only going through the control arm bushing, and not into the chassis. You do not need to remove these completely.
  • Remove the stabilizer links from both sides.
  • Next you must disconnect the steering linkage. This is done easily by lifting up the rubber boot to expose the small bolt holding the linkage. Remove the bolt and pry the linkage upward using a pry tool or screw driver.
  • Near the passenger side of the crossmember, remove the bolt holding the power steering line bracket to the chassis. You may now begin to lower the sub-frame using the jack. The front bolts should have lowered the sub-frame about a half-inch or so, allowing you to lower the back of the sub-frame 3 or 4 inches.
  • With the sub-frame lowered, you can now access the bolts holding the stabilizer bar in place. The right side has a nut screwed onto the top of it holding the power steering lines, remove this first, then remove both bolts. Pry or pull the stabilizer brackets up and out. Remove the stabilizer bar.
  • Now you can get to both of the bolts holding the rack in place. Remove both of these, then begin to slide the rack toward the driver side wheel well until there is no more slack in the power steering lines. At this point you should be able to get to the nuts securing the lines on the rack. Loosen both nuts and be ready with something to cap the ends with. I used part of a plastic bag and a wire to tie it. You can now pull the rack out through the driver side.
  • Be sure to replace the rubber o-rings on the ends of the lines when putting the new rack in. Replace everything in the reverse order. Put your tie rods on the new rack, making sure to count the turns or make a mark or measure to be sure your tie rods end up close to the same length as before.
  • Bleed the power steering system.

Important: Get an alignment! Not only is it dangerous to drive with your steering out of align but it will also grate the tread off your tires in a matter of weeks or even days.

Oct 27, 2009 | 2002 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

How do I change the subframe bushings on a 91


After the car is on a lift, you can loosen the rear bolts andtake out the front bolts and replace the front bushings, then tighten the front bolts then do the rears. its a job you really should not attempt on the ground

Oct 02, 2009 | 1991 Cadillac DeVille

1 Answer

2000 Grand Cherokee Upper Ball Joint


Illustration of control arm:
http://www.penguinscouts.com/pics/jeep/Differential%20Suspension.jpg

The wishbone part, number 12, is the control arm. In the two ends, left side of picture, are the two bushings. These are pressed in bushings.

The rubber bushings, with their bonded steel shells, are separate parts, the part number for the (2) bushings are: 52088425

These bushings normally won't be damaged, but, in my case, due to extensive towing of a heavy trailer, these bushings had tears in the rubber bonding between the shell and the central spindle. These tears caused by the trailer snatching the frame around (trailer hitch is frame mounted) while the differential is essentially connected to the earth, through the tire rubber, and to the frame, through the ball joint and arm rubber bushings.

You can easily view the condition of the rubber simply by rolling under the vehicle with a flashlight, and looking. The bolts are vertical, right up through the bushing spindle, into the frame.

The bolts through the bushing spindle mount the arm to the frame.

The ball joint, at the apex of the arm, is number 8, and is Jeep part number 52088808AB.

This ball joint is an assembly which also includes the mounting flange plate. This plate bolts atop the differential housing with three bolts. The ball joint pin protrudes through the hole in the apex of the arms, and is secured by a nut, item 11, Jeep part number 06502698

Again, don't replace the bushings unless you see visible tears in the rubber web, or rotted, aged, cracked out webbing.

One more thing to note if you take down the arm... the emergency brake cables and brake lines are secured to the arm with small metal clips and bolts. Minor point here is when you reattach these bolts, don't crank down on them more than about 12 ft lbs torque, as these bolts go into the sheet metal wall of the arm, and there's no need to try to strip out these threads... Just secure them a bit, not to tank down on them.

Oct 06, 2008 | 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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