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that engine is built by nissan believe it or not. look on the net for your van or a nissan maxama. I just googled it and found lots of diagrams for that van(95 mercury villiger 3.0 timing belt diagram. I would not only replace the belt, I would replace it using a timing belt replacement kit.If your going to keep the van.
The timing marks are generally tiny arrow located on the gears which hold the timing belt. Make sure the arrows are pointing up and you should be close enough to get the vehicle started and to a garage for minor adjusting with a timing light. Unless of course you have one of those timing lights.
The crank has got to be at TDC, with the marks lined up, the cams have to be lined up to their marks, then the belt will line up, If it doesn't line up, You will be walking home. If you have the old belt handy and the marks are still visible, compare them to the new belt, make sure they are the same. Pull the pin on the belt tensioner and you should be all set. Hope this helps.
look closely at cam, there will be a small triangle some where on the gear, then there will be a notch somewhere on the casing, line those two points up and on the crank same thing exept instead of a notch on the casing there will be a mark on the motor, just remember the crank turns twice to each cam spin so it can be tricking getting things just right
I have used the Haynes Repair Manual for the Mercury Villager to change the timing belt on my 1993 Villager, twice. I just finished last night with the latest change. I found the Haynes manual to be very useful. This is just an overview:
1. Jack up the the van and support it on jack stands. Remove the front passenger side wheel and 2 plastic splash sheilds.
2. Remove the two radiator hoses on the passenger side of the engine.
3. Remove the pulley from the water pump (4x 10mm bolts)
4. Remove the tensioner pulley, including the bracket, for the A/C compressor. (3x 12 mm bolts)
This one can be difficult because it requires a torx head to loosen the pulley and it's a very tight fit to get a torx in there. I ended up taking the torx head out of the socket then turning it with a 10mm wrench.
5. Remove all 3 drive belts.
6. Remove the crankshaft pulley. (1-1/16" bolt) You will need a good strap wrench to keep the pulley from turning or an impact to remove this bolt. You may be able to remove the pulley just by bumping it with a mallet, but you may need a gear puller.
7. Remove the timing belt cover, it has an upper and lower half and is held in place by several 8mm screws.
8. You will find that the timing belt pulleys on the both cam shafts and the crank shaft have a white paint mark on one tooth. Make sure the marks on the two cam shaft pulleys are in line with a "bump" mark on the back plate of the belt cover. The bump mark for the front cam is located at about the 2 o'clock position and the one for the rear cam is at about the 10 o'clock position. You will need a mirror and flashlight to see this one.
The crankshaft pulley mark lines up with a notch in the oil pan (I think it's the oil pan where the notch is, but you will see it at near the 6 o'clock postion.
9. My new timing belt was a DAYCO and it came with a good instruction sheet. The new belt has an arrow that should point AWAY from the engine. There are also 3 lines on the new belt that will line up with the lines on the timing belt pulleys.
10. The belt tension should be adjusted so that you get about 0.5" - 0.6" of deflection at the center between the two cam shafts.
Note: I recommend replacing both the tensioning pulley and water pump while you are in there.
A water pump is about $32 and the tensioning pulley is about $35 but it's money well spent.
I did NOT replace the tensioner pulley the last time I changed the timing belt, and that is what failed this time. I could have saved myself a lot of work if I had replaced the pulley the first time.