Question about 2002 Suzuki Grand Vitara
Hello to you too.!
what engine? G16/J20, H25,H27? (diffr, engines, diff EFI , bingo?)
well , lacking using a $15 pyro IR gun to see what it's really doing.
we might guess.
1: low coolant, the sensor does that (surge) if it has air pockets.
2: bad sensor. (if water is 180F and it reads wrong its bad)
3 :bad meter. (it is not EFI run, its standalone from 89 to 02)
4: bad wiring from meter to the sensor.
now begs the better questions.
does this year, use the ECT sensor to do this, or sep. sensor.
(there are 3 designs uses, in 20 years)......my bag.
the online page shows that this car has a DUAL ECT
2 in 1 (sensor)
one side is for ECT sensor to ECU for engine temps for EFI controls
the other side is silly gauge.
on guess what. the sensor has 3 pins and the guage side uses
engine ground for the meter (a bad idea)
so add to my less, bad ground to sender or engine block.
so the real question is (backing up to a real diagnosis)
1: is the engine temp really doing that , or is the gauge fibbing.
i can put my right hand on the RAD hose to thermostat
and tell you in 5 min, or less. (calibrated hands)
or use pyro gun. (aka, IR heat meter, point and shoot)
so if you use a scan tool on this car, and the temps read perfectly
say 180F all the time hot. then we know there is water in the block , not air, and the thermostat is not going nuts as all do this old.
ever think thing the gauges is not fibbing and the thermostat lost its nut (brain) they
all do that. (stick open, closed, or surge) bad.
on newer cars the ECU/PCM runs the meter directly, saving cash on dual needless sensors.... and the scans tell it all.....
Posted on May 03, 2015
Bad coolant temp sensor
Posted on May 15, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Try stopping on a steep incline--does the heater stay warm? If yes, what you have is an air bubble that hangs at the heater hose until pressure from the water pump blows thru it as the engine speeds up. Park on an incline, open the radiator cap, run the engine until the thermostat is open, turn the heater on, crack open any/all bleed ports to release any trapped air, and fill the radiator to the neck. Wait until the level stops dropping and make sure bubbles don't continue to come up. If they do, you may have a blown head gasket that will keep forming these bubbles until you change the gasket.
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