Question about 2001 Volvo S40
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
yes i would recommend replacing the o2 sensor, 9 times out of 10 it will correct the problem and they usually aren't too expensive for the saturn's
Posted on Nov 27, 2008
is this a 4 or 6 cylinder?
if a 4 cylinder it will only have 2 o2 sensors
V6 will have 4 o2 senors which the sensor will be the right side of the engine first sensor.
1st sensor on exhaust, I recommend if you change one change all, as this will make the computer when it rechecks the system you have all clean/fast responding sensors.
if you have a slow response it means the sensor is dirty and not reading well, which is usually caused by minor misfires that the engine computer dismisses, so a tune up would be recommended too.
Posted on May 06, 2009
This code does not always mean the O2 sensor is low, but if u want to replace it here is the info to do that and the part number.
The sensor you want is the one in the exhaust pipe of the engine cylinder bank that has #1 cylinder in it, as you face the engine with the hood open the cylinder bank u want is the rear bank, u will need to jack the car up and get under it to remove the sensor, u may also need a special socket to remove it, the sensor is the one that is before the catalytic converter. part number is:DENSO Part # 2344068
REAR; Before Catalyst
Posted on May 20, 2009
I would lean toward the MAF sensor they were known for going bad, which would cause all these codes. It wouldn't hurt to take the IAC off and spray it out with carb cleaner and some WD40, just to cover your bases. Both these units were made by Bosch and the MAF failed alot more often then the IAC.
Posted on May 23, 2009
SOURCE: 2001 volvo s440 1.9t
Volvo Radiator, Thermostat and Sensors
system's temperature controls include all coolant temperature sensors,
Volvo thermostat, Volvo radiator or expansion tank cap, cooling fan(s)
and fan clutch (if equipped). These cooling system parts function
primarily independent of the engine but control the engine either
through cooling or by sending control signals to your Volvo's
The Volvo thermostat is a spring-loaded valve that opens and closes based on the temperature of the coolant flowing through it. A high temperature reading followed by a drop to normal temperature (or a continuously low temperature) is a common first sign of a sticking Volvo thermostat. However, many other conditions may cause these symptoms, so you need to know how to eliminate each possibility.
The Volvo radiator or expansion tank cap is also a spring-loaded valve reacting to system pressure. It serves to maintain proper system coolant level at predetermined pressures. It must always be replaced with an exact replacement cap with the same pressure setting. Never use other caps except for short-term emergencies!
A belt-driven fan blade for pulling air through the Volvo radiator is usually on the Volvo water pump pulley and should have a fan clutch to control it. The fan clutch allows the fan to turn with the belt at low engine speed and "free-wheel" at higher speeds. A bad fan clutch either doesn't allow the fan to spin at low speed (overheating in traffic) or doesn't allow it to free-wheel at high speed (potential overheating on highway or reduced gas mileage).
An electric fan can be either by itself (usually front-wheel drive) or auxiliary (used with a mechanical fan). Both types are controlled via a temperature sensor - in the Volvo radiator or upper Volvo radiator hose or on the Volvo thermostat or Volvo water pump housing. This sensor is usually an on/off type switch with a fixed temperature setting. (Some vehicles may have 2-3 settings for multi-speed fans.) This sensor is commonly called an "auxilliary fan switch".
Other common temperature sensors are: 1) gauge sender (variable output); 2) warning light sender (on/off type); 3) lambda and/or fuel injection sensor(s) (variable to control fuel injection settings); 4) thermo-time switch (cold start valve control). Your Volvo may have other sensors as well.
Temperature control is critical to both performance and emission control. Unfortunately, this system is the most difficult to troubleshoot without proper equipment and diagrams. It's even more difficult with computers that adjust timing, idle speed, vacuum and fuel delivery automatically to make up for potentially faulty temperature sensor signals.
Maintenance of your cooling system sensors is virtually impossible since there's nothing really to "maintain". Keeping them clean both internally (coolant replacement) and externally (engine cleaning) is the best way to ensure trouble-free driving. Checking and replacing all parts at the factory-recommended time or mileage limits helps as well
Posted on Jul 23, 2009
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