Question about 1994 Pontiac Grand Am

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Can you unplug the wiring from the fuel injectors to test with an ohm meter without taking off the intake? Also, where is the '02' sensor located?

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If you have a 2.3L 4 cylinder you dont, but if you have a 3.1L 6 cylinder you will have to remove the upper in-take magifold, the o2 sensor is located no the exhaust magifold or on the exhaust pipe but not pass the catilic converter.

Posted on May 13, 2010

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My 2003 pontiac aztek shuts off when its in idle


Could have a vacuum leak , a problem with the IAC - idle air control motor !
Rough, Unstable, or Incorrect Idle and Stalling
Inspection/Test
Action
DEFINITION: Engine runs unevenly at idle. If severe, the engine or vehicle may shake. Engine idle speed may vary in RPM. Either condition may be severe enough to stall the engine.
Preliminary
?€¢
Refer to Diagnostic System Check - Engine Controls .


?€¢
Refer to Intermittent Conditions before starting.


?€¢
Search for bulletins.


?€¢
Observe the owners driving habits.

Fuel System
?€¢
Test the fuel system circuits for proper operation. Refer to Fuel Pump Electrical Circuit Diagnosis .


?€¢
Test for low fuel pressure. Refer to Fuel System Diagnosis .


?€¢
Test for faulty fuel injectors. Refer to Fuel Injector Balance Test with Special Tool , Fuel Injector Balance Test with Tech 2 , Fuel Injector Solenoid Coil Test test procedures.


?€¢
Inspect for fuel contamination. Refer to Alcohol/Contaminants-in-Fuel Diagnosis .


?€¢
Inspect for fuel in the pressure regulator vacuum hose.


?€¢
Ensure each injector harness is connected to the correct injector/cylinder.


?€¢
Inspect for any items which may cause an engine to run rich, long term fuel trim is significantly in the negative range. Refer to Diagnostic Aids for DTC P0172 .


?€¢
Inspect for any items which may cause an engine to run lean, long term fuel trim is significantly in the positive range. Refer to Diagnostic Aids for DTC P0171 .

Sensor/System
?€¢
Test for conditions which cause an incorrect idle speed.


-
Throttle body tampering, excessive deposits, or damage--Refer to Fuel System Description .


-
Restricted air intake system


-
Large vacuum leak


?€¢
Inspect the air intake ducts for being collapsed, damaged areas, looseness, improper installation, or leaking especially between the MAF sensor and the throttle body.


?€¢
Inspect crankcase ventilation valve for proper operation.


?€¢
Inspect the throttle position (TP) sensor and related wiring. Refer to DTC P0123 .


?€¢
Monitor the 24X crank sensor and the CMP sensor signal present parameters on the scan tool. If both are not responding, test the sensor feed circuit. Both sensors use a separate feed circuit but are internally connected to power. Test all CKP sensor A and CMP sensor circuits for intermittents. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems.


?€¢
Monitor the 3X parameter on the scan tool. If the 3X is not responding, inspect the CKP sensor B and circuits for intermittents. Inspect the ignition control (IC) circuit, IC timing control circuit, low resolution engine speed signal circuit and the low reference circuit for intermittents. If these circuits become open, or shorted, they may not set a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) immediately, but are capable of causing driveability complaints. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems.


?€¢
Test the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system for proper operation. Refer to Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System Description .


?€¢
Inspect the Transaxle Range Switch input with the vehicle in drive and the gear selector in drive or overdrive


Ignition System
?€¢
Inspect for proper ignition voltage output using the following steps:


1.
Attach the J 26792 Spark Tester to engine ground.


2.
Connect the spark plug end of the spark plug wire to the J 26792 . Leave the other end of the spark plug wire connected to the coil being tested.


3.
Connect the spark plug end of the companion spark plug wire to ground. The companion spark plug wire is the wire attached to the corresponding coil tower.


4.
Crank the engine while observing the J 26792 . A spark should be observed.


5.
Repeat the above steps for each coil.


?€¢
If spark is not present at the coils, inspect for the following conditions:


-
Coils--Cracks, carbon tracking/arcing, or a resistance value outside the specified range

Coil Resistance
5000-8000 ohms (5K-8K ohms)
-
Spark plug wires--Signs of arcing, cross firing, cracks, carbon tracking, plug boot damage, pinched, improper routing, or a resistance value outside the specified range

Spark Plug Wire Resistance
9 686 ohms per meter (3,000 ohms per foot)
Important: : Spraying the secondary ignition wires with a light mist of water may help locate an intermittent problem. Ignition voltage will arc to ground when a secondary component is faulty.


-
Defective ignition module


-
Ignition system wiring--Loose ignition module feed or ground connection, or damaged system wiring


?€¢
Remove spark plugs and inspect for the following conditions:


-
Fouled plugs


-
Cracks


-
Wear


-
Improper gap


-
Burned or damaged electrodes


-
Improper heat range or reach


?€¢
If spark plugs are gas or oil fouled, the cause of the fouling must be determined before replacing the spark plugs. Refer to Spark Plug Inspection .

Sep 27, 2015 | Pontiac Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Have a 89 jeep with a 2.5 liter, keeps fouling out the plugs.


How is your o2 sensor? if it is bad it would make the car run rich and foul the plugs.

Aug 09, 2015 | Jeep Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Cranks but will not start


Do a OHM meter test on the injectors. Unplug the injector leads and touch the OHM meter leads to the 2 pins and get a reading. Could be 14 to 17. something, but should all read the same. The one that shows a different reading, most likely #4, happens to be a bad injector. Replace it. If it doesn't show any different from the rest, #4 injector is just plugged up and needs attention. Take it out and to a pro for a spray pattern test and cleaning. Or just go ahead and change it out with one of the others to find the cylinder you put # 4 injector is now a dead cylinder. NOW you know for a fact it's THAT injector.

Oct 13, 2017 | Nissan Xterra Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Mr2 wastes to much gas


i love this car. sell me your car. 1986 right>? no supercharger option.

i think i already posted to this.

IS the check engine light on, key on then go out running? no?

ill list the causes. (simple ) for the 50 reasons or better all tests, ask.

1: never tuned up. this decade or last 60k miles

2: thermostat missing or bad, frigid EFI sucks fuel like crazy .

3: too high fuel pressure.

4: ECT fibbing (bad) engine temp sensor , 300 ohms hot?

5: IAT ,same. (small mpg loss)

6: engine bad (low compression on 1 or more...cyl)

7: in limphome, yes, use the jumper wire and see the DTC flash codes. TWIN CAM Engine , right?, way advanced for 1986

8: air cleaner filthy. see tune up.

9: injectors leak or are clogged.

10: 02 sensor stuck at 0 volts. (forces max rich)

11: this car has an air flow meter, on front of intake, they get funky after 27 years. of flapping.

12: 02 sensor heater is dead. page FI-122 in FSM. 5 to 6 ohms.



stop.

this is twin cam engine, with Denso EFI, a nice early EFI, in fact

way ahead of others at this time.

that makes it easy to understand, its like todays cars.

see? do you need a free FSM. we have it?



most cars I restore this old fail all 12 above. all.

bad sensors. bad injectors (pro clean them at $20 each) ask)

bad fuel pressure regulator



there are simple test. for each, fail. all car covered in the very

good toyota, book,, each part.



what i do ,once tuned,up,

i check that coolant hits and holds 180F or more. Pyro gun (IR)

it must, if not will suck gas bad !

i like to cut corners, in test (mil training)

i like to do binary searches, (jump to middle of system and work to fail point)

saves time and pain.

I check that the engine runs in closed loop first.

page FI-120 in the FSM.

if it dont, the engine will suck fuel. this is an 0s sensor test.

i do it at IDLE and at 2500 rpm as the book shows. (in neutral)

see my logic here. i check for perfect closed loop operation.

I start with a new 02 sensor, if the prev. owner never did service.

if the new O2 is stuck at 0v or .9v , i work that.



see how that takes you to the actual problem fastest?



it does.



do ask questions, we can answer each.

how to diagnose, or do any test in the FSM.

Dec 15, 2013 | Toyota MR2 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Mazda 2003 b2300 running lean on bank 1 it started with ramdom misfire, no spark. and i replace coil, plugs and wires. then it came up with the o2 sensor and replaced one 02 sensor by firewall


Hello! Lets look at this with cause and effect...One of only a few sensors is the cause of a lean mixture...The lean mixture then causes random misfires which in turn causes the O2 sensor to read to much oxygen in the exhaust...

Two sensors control the fuel/air mixture; The Mass Air Flow (MAF) and the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor...Lets eliminate..You'll need an multimeter (digital is best...$20)...The MAF is bolted to the inlet hose to the throttle body...See drawing below...It is combined with the Intake Air Temperature sensor...Pull the connector...Set meter to read 50K Ohms...Locate the pins where the wire colors Gray and Gray/Red connect...Clip meter leads to these pins on the unit...At 77 degrees F you should read 36K ohms...with a hot engine 190 degrees F should read 3.5 K ohms...Notice how as temperature rises the resistance drops...If you do not get these readings the MAF with IAT is the problem...Replace it...If it reads as specified here is the next test...Buy a can of electronic contact cleaner (auto parts store) Remove the MAF from the intake hose...Spray into the air passage...Cleaner leaves no residue and dries quickly...Install, plug in connector and test...If fault has cleared stop there and let me know...NOTE: Using an after market air cleaner that is impregnated with oil will ruin the MAF sensor...Send a comment...Guru...Saailer

Nov 05, 2011 | 2007 Mazda B2300

1 Answer

Injector circuit test with "noid" lamp


Should be some specks on ohms you can perform without having the motor running. I just did one on a Nissia Maxima. Had the same prob...Check it with a ohm meter !!

Dec 20, 2009 | 2007 Cadillac CTS 3.6L

1 Answer

1989 Honda Civic hard starting and dies for no reason. Cooling fans not working. Trouble codes are #6 coolant, #10 air intake temp, #16 fuel injector. Can anyone lead me to a solution for these problems?


6
Accord Civic CRV CRX Del Sol Odyssey Prelude
85-98 86-98 97-98 85-91 93-97 95-98 85-98 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
10
Accord Civic CRV CRX Del Sol Odyssey Prelude
85-98 86-98 97-98 85-91 93-97 95-98 85-98 IAT Sensor (Intake Air Temperature)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
16
Accord Civic CRV CRX Del Sol Odyssey Prelude
90-95 88-95 n/a 88-91 93-95 95 88-95 Fuel Injector System
defective circuit or unplugged / defective fuel injector

check your wiring for dirty connections or broken wires, you may have wires that are rubbed through or connectors that are not making full contact. you will need an ohm meter and check wires for continuity. a wiring diagram will be needed.

May 15, 2009 | 1989 Honda Civic

2 Answers

98 sunfire sputtering


Most likely it's bad wires, fuel injector, or your PCM. This will tell you how to figure it out.

********There's 4 things an engine needs, Air Spark Fuel and a brain to tell them when to do which. If everything seems fine, fuel injectors are fine (right resistance), have spark, and your air filter isn't black, then call a dealership, (DO NOT go there, just call) give them your VIN number and ask if the recall has been done yet on the PCM gasket and if there are any other free recalls that need to be done. This car and the cavalier had a bad gasket on the PCM casing, allowing water to get in and destroy the main computer. Screws everything up and puts most of these cars in the junkyard long before 200k miles. Simple fix though, new computer, new connectors. It's located underneath the passenger headlight, the stupidest place to put it, so puddles kill the car and make it so it will sputter and eventually die. EVEN IF THE DEALERSHIP SAYS IT'S BEEN DONE, VISUALLY CHECK THIS!!!!! After I paid a dealership to do $400 worth of "general electrical work" that still didn't fix the problem, I researched it myself and found that even though the recall had been done, the guy botched the job and water still got in. SPUTTERING AND THEN DEAD. Sound Familiar?

Air Spark Fuel and Brain

First make sure your Air filter is clean, and that it is able to **** air into the airbox. If leaves clog the air intake cause it's near the ground, no air, no combustion. Take off the cover to the air filter, check the air filter, if it's black at all, change it, tan-light brown can stay a little longer. Leave it on the top part of the air box and try starting the car, so that the air that gets sucked in goes through the filter but doesn't come from the air box, just the ambient air around the engine compartment. If it runs without being contained in the filter housing, then you either have critters, a critter nest, or you sucked up a bunch of leaves that are blocking the air flow. Compressed air, have fun with it. Getting air? Good, now is it getting spark.

What you want to do is check if there's spark at all 4 plugs. You can go to the auto parts store and pick up a spark plug tester that plugs into the wires and clips to the engine and allows you to see the spark, or you can do it the fun way. Remove one by one, clean em off with a rag and test them by pressing the threaded side of them (obviously don't touch the metal, use the wires to hold em) to the engine block for a ground. Have someone try to turn it over for just a second, if it turns twice, but you don't get a spark, verify it by doing it again. If they're not firing, replace plugs and wires, try starting it. Test the cam and crankshaft sensors and last the ignition coil-packs. If this is the 2.2, they're on the back of the engine and accessible from underneath.

If the plugs fire, great, now check the fuel. Get out of the car, take the gas cap off, and put your ear to the hole while someone turns the key on, without starting it, for 3 seconds then turns it off a couple times. If you can hear the whirring sound, good, if not, check the fuel pump, fuel filter, relays and fuses. Now the injectors.

Time for the voltage meter! Get a voltage meter that measures Ohms, (symbol of a horseshoe) which is the resistance through something. Unplug the injector, touch the two posts inside the injector with the ohmmeter, and see what it says for each one. If the injectors don't have the right resistance, they're bad and need to be replaced.

Here's the specs...
For 2.2L OHV engines:
1995 - 11.6 to 12.4 Ohms
96&97 - 11.8 to 12.6 Ohms
98 to 2000 - 1.95 to 2.3 Ohms
01 to 02 - 11 to 14 Ohms
For 2.2L OHC engines:
2002+ - 11 to 14 Ohms
For 2.3L (1995) and 2.4L OHC engines:
1995 (2.3L) - 1.95 to 2.15 Ohms
1996 to 98 - 1.95 to 2.3 Ohms
99 & 2000 - 11.4 to 12.6 Ohms
01 and 02 - 11 to 14 Ohms

If they give the right readings, test the connectors to the fuel injectors with a NOID Light, available to buy or rent from most auto parts stores to see if the injectors are getting the signal to fire. If they aren't, the NOID Light won't flash and there's a problem with your computer or the link to it. Visually check the PCM again and connectors for corrosion. Once again, there was a recall on the PCM housing that KILLS MOST OF THESE CARS. . Good Luck.

Jan 30, 2009 | 1995 Pontiac Sunfire

1 Answer

Sputtering 98 sunfire


********There's 4 things an engine needs, Air Spark Fuel and a brain to tell them when to do which. If everything seems fine, fuel injectors are fine (right resistance), have spark, and your air filter isn't black, then call a dealership, (DO NOT go there, just call) give them your VIN number and ask if the recall has been done yet on the PCM gasket and if there are any other free recalls that need to be done. This car and the cavalier had a bad gasket on the PCM casing, allowing water to get in and destroy the main computer. Screws everything up and puts most of these cars in the junkyard long before 200k miles. Simple fix though, new computer, new connectors. It's located underneath the passenger headlight, the stupidest place to put it, so puddles kill the car and make it so it will sputter and eventually die. EVEN IF THE DEALERSHIP SAYS IT'S BEEN DONE, VISUALLY CHECK THIS!!!!! After I paid a dealership to do $400 worth of "general electrical work" that still didn't fix the problem, I researched it myself and found that even though the recall had been done, the guy botched the job and water still got in. SPUTTERING AND THEN DEAD. Sound Familiar?

Air Spark Fuel and Brain

First make sure your Air filter is clean, and that it is able to **** air into the airbox. If leaves clog the air intake cause it's near the ground, no air, no combustion. Take off the cover to the air filter, check the air filter, if it's black at all, change it, tan-light brown can stay a little longer. Leave it on the top part of the air box and try starting the car, so that the air that gets sucked in goes through the filter but doesn't come from the air box, just the ambient air around the engine compartment. If it runs without being contained in the filter housing, then you either have critters, a critter nest, or you sucked up a bunch of leaves that are blocking the air flow. Compressed air, have fun with it. Getting air? Good, now is it getting spark.

What you want to do is check if there's spark at all 4 plugs. You can go to the auto parts store and pick up a spark plug tester that plugs into the wires and clips to the engine and allows you to see the spark, or you can do it the fun way. Remove one by one, clean em off with a rag and test them by pressing the threaded side of them (obviously don't touch the metal, use the wires to hold em) to the engine block for a ground. Have someone try to turn it over for just a second, if it turns twice, but you don't get a spark, verify it by doing it again. If they're not firing, replace plugs and wires, try starting it. Test the cam and crankshaft sensors and last the ignition coil-packs. If this is the 2.2, they're on the back of the engine and accessible from underneath.

If the plugs fire, great, now check the fuel. Get out of the car, take the gas cap off, and put your ear to the hole while someone turns the key on, without starting it, for 3 seconds then turns it off a couple times. If you can hear the whirring sound, good, if not, check the fuel pump, fuel filter, relays and fuses. Now the injectors.

Time for the voltage meter! Get a voltage meter that measures Ohms, (symbol of a horseshoe) which is the resistance through something. Unplug the injector, touch the two posts inside the injector with the ohmmeter, and see what it says for each one. If the injectors don't have the right resistance, they're bad and need to be replaced.

Here's the specs...
For 2.2L OHV engines:
1995 - 11.6 to 12.4 Ohms
96&97 - 11.8 to 12.6 Ohms
98 to 2000 - 1.95 to 2.3 Ohms
01 to 02 - 11 to 14 Ohms
For 2.2L OHC engines:
2002+ - 11 to 14 Ohms
For 2.3L (1995) and 2.4L OHC engines:
1995 (2.3L) - 1.95 to 2.15 Ohms
1996 to 98 - 1.95 to 2.3 Ohms
99 & 2000 - 11.4 to 12.6 Ohms
01 and 02 - 11 to 14 Ohms

If they give the right readings, test the connectors to the fuel injectors with a NOID Light, available to buy or rent from most auto parts stores to see if the injectors are getting the signal to fire. If they aren't, the NOID Light won't flash and there's a problem with your computer or the link to it. Visually check the PCM again and connectors for corrosion. Once again, there was a recall on the PCM housing that KILLS MOST OF THESE CARS. . Good Luck.

Jan 30, 2009 | 1995 Pontiac Sunfire

1 Answer

1995 sunfire gt manual wont start


********There's 4 things an engine needs, Air Spark Fuel and a brain to tell them when to do which. If everything seems fine, fuel injectors are fine (right resistance), have spark, and your air filter isn't black, then call a dealership, (DO NOT go there, just call) give them your VIN number and ask if the recall has been done yet on the PCM gasket and if there are any other free recalls that need to be done. This car and the cavalier had a bad gasket on the PCM casing, allowing water to get in and destroy the main computer. Screws everything up and puts most of these cars in the junkyard long before 200k miles. Simple fix though, new computer, new connectors. It's located underneath the passenger headlight, the stupidest place to put it, so puddles kill the car and make it so it will sputter and eventually die. EVEN IF THE DEALERSHIP SAYS IT'S BEEN DONE, VISUALLY CHECK THIS!!!!! After I paid a dealership to do $400 worth of "general electrical work" that still didn't fix the problem, I researched it myself and found that even though the recall had been done, the guy botched the job and water still got in. SPUTTERING AND THEN DEAD. Sound Familiar?

Air Spark Fuel and Brain

First make sure your Air filter is clean, and that it is able to **** air into the airbox. If leaves clog the air intake cause it's near the ground, no air, no combustion. Take off the cover to the air filter, check the air filter, if it's black at all, change it, tan-light brown can stay a little longer. Leave it on the top part of the air box and try starting the car, so that the air that gets sucked in goes through the filter but doesn't come from the air box, just the ambient air around the engine compartment. If it runs without being contained in the filter housing, then you either have critters, a critter nest, or you sucked up a bunch of leaves that are blocking the air flow. Compressed air, have fun with it. Getting air? Good, now is it getting spark.

What you want to do is check if there's spark at all 4 plugs. You can go to the auto parts store and pick up a spark plug tester that plugs into the wires and clips to the engine and allows you to see the spark, or you can do it the fun way. Remove one by one, clean em off with a rag and test them by pressing the threaded side of them (obviously don't touch the metal, use the wires to hold em) to the engine block for a ground. Have someone try to turn it over for just a second, if it turns twice, but you don't get a spark, verify it by doing it again. If they're not firing, replace plugs and wires, try starting it. Test the cam and crankshaft sensors and last the ignition coil-packs. If this is the 2.2, they're on the back of the engine and accessible from underneath.

If the plugs fire, great, now check the fuel. Get out of the car, take the gas cap off, and put your ear to the hole while someone turns the key on, without starting it, for 3 seconds then turns it off a couple times. If you can hear the whirring sound, good, if not, check the fuel pump, fuel filter, relays and fuses. Now the injectors.

Time for the voltage meter! Get a voltage meter that measures Ohms, (symbol of a horseshoe) which is the resistance through something. Unplug the injector, touch the two posts inside the injector with the ohmmeter, and see what it says for each one. If the injectors don't have the right resistance, they're bad and need to be replaced.

Here's the specs...
For 2.2L OHV engines:
1995 - 11.6 to 12.4 Ohms
96&97 - 11.8 to 12.6 Ohms
98 to 2000 - 1.95 to 2.3 Ohms
01 to 02 - 11 to 14 Ohms
For 2.2L OHC engines:
2002+ - 11 to 14 Ohms
For 2.3L (1995) and 2.4L OHC engines:
1995 (2.3L) - 1.95 to 2.15 Ohms
1996 to 98 - 1.95 to 2.3 Ohms
99 & 2000 - 11.4 to 12.6 Ohms
01 and 02 - 11 to 14 Ohms

If they give the right readings, test the connectors to the fuel injectors with a NOID Light, available to buy or rent from most auto parts stores to see if the injectors are getting the signal to fire. If they aren't, the NOID Light won't flash and there's a problem with your computer or the link to it. Visually check the PCM again and connectors for corrosion. Once again, there was a recall on the PCM housing that KILLS MOST OF THESE CARS. . Good Luck.

Jan 13, 2009 | 1995 Pontiac Sunfire

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