There are two air ventilation holes in the fron spoiler of my A6 2.0 tdie s-line model 2010. If you stand in front of the car and look at it those holes are down on the spoiler just next to the fog lights. The left one is closed but the right one is kind of open some kind of air ventilation or something. Is that ok or is it some production mistake? should I go back to Audi and complain it's brand new car!? Hope for some good advice! //e
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Re: Hole, low in the fron of my new A6 S-line 2010
It will not be a mistake. The fact that the hose you see is not matched symmetrically is because only one is needed but for aesthetic reasons and to keep the balanced looks they have a ventilation hole on either side. Most other car manufacturers do the same, the car looks symmetrical from the outside but the air intakes are used for different tasks on the inside
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A compression test is only a partial diagnostic. You should have a cylinder leak down test done. Low compression could be valves, Rings, head gasket or cracked head or block. IT could also be nothing depending on how low it is. So a cylinder leak down test tells you which one it is. The mechanic hooks a pressure hose to the spark plug hole, air pressure is put in the cylinder when the valves are closed. The location of the leak can then be heard.
best thing to do is find a way to connect the vacuum lines to the new cold air intake. best way is probably drill a hole is pipe and tack on or silver solder some little air fittings for the vacuum lines to fit onto, otherwise you can do it the bodge way and just drill tight fit holes in the pipe so the hose push tight into it.
I'm guessing there should be a tube or pipe that goes to the valve cover. Is the hole about a 1/2 inch in diameter? If so that's the fresh air intake for your "crankcase ventilation system". That hole should not be left open because, dirt and dust can can go directly into the engine and crankcase. There should be a tube, they are usually plastic.
Hi could be where you attach the towing eye which you will find in the toolkit. look in the audi book under towing.some manufactures put deliberate holes and slots in front bumper for cooling reason ie the front brakes etc,.
hi from uk the cambelt timing marks at TDC are as follows--the crank gear mark is lined up with mark on front of engineblock at approx 10-30 am position the marks are clear as you look ? the cam coghas a dot/pop mark just below teeth this mark is at top ie 12-0'clock position now on cam cog you will also see s hole drilledon the cog web also at 12-o/clock if you look thro this hole (use a mirror ?) the hole lines up to a grooved vertical line at the rear which is on front of engine at this point you fit belt fron crank pully anti clockwise round cam cig then reset tensioner when marks are rechecked with belt fitted/tensioned ? turn engine manually two full rotations clockwise then recheck all mark line up again ? then re assemble ? c/shaft pully bolt tightens to=170-180 Nm hope you notice that the new belt is marked as to its rotation with arrows hope this helps ?best wishes from uk
Low fluid level in the pump resevior due to a leak at a hydrolic cylinder allowed air instead of fluid to fill the cylinders.
I then removed the pump from its mounting and elevated it as high as the connected fluid lines would allow, removed the plug,filled with trans mission fluid to within a 1/4" of the fill hole. Then cycle the top pausing at each end for 15 seconds to allow air to purge from lines & cylinders.
Recheck fluid level and plug fill hole.
Note: As of 1/18/2010 the cylinders for this model were on nationwide backorder and 300 request were in front of mine at the dealer level.
Good luck with your search for parts.
There are a few things you can do without needing too much money to repair it. First good old trick, as amazing as it seems, would be to use some good Epoxy glue as it is strong enough to glue metal to metal and plastic to metal with surprising strength. Although not all epoxys are the same and a more specialised epoxy formulated for car repairs will help. The best bet to go and get some will be to visit your local parts store and ask their expert if they have any epoxy specially made for metal and plastic. The other quick solution would be to get yourself 2 to 4 self tapping metal screws depending on the size of the spoiler's post and how much good plastic there is left on it to screw into. I would suggest using at least some household bathroom silicone though and put some between the spoiler's post and the trunk lid to seal the old OEM screw holes so that you don't end up with a swimming pool in your trunk. Then just screw the self tapping metal screws from inside the trunk lid being careful to align the screws at the right place so not to just make another useless hole next to the spoiler. A good trick to lign up easily enough will be to use the old screw holes as guides, or if you want more precision, you can also measure the width and length of the spoiler's post and trace the dimensions inside the trunk lid with a tire crayon or something similar using the screw holes as guides again, as it will be easy to wash it off once you are done.