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Could be loose lugs/ not torqued to spec. , bad wheel bearing, bad ball joint(s), bad steering arm joint, bad rack and pinion power steering unit, or other steering components. Check lugs first, loosen and retighten while slightly jacked up to take some pressure off of the wheel use a torque wrench set to 100 ft lbs. Then raise wheel about and inch off the floor, use a crowbar to pry up on the wheel several times while observing your ball joints for excessive movement. Very much play at all, replace ball joints, works better to replace them as a pair, top and bottom. If OK, raise wheel a bit further, and grab the top and bottom of the wheel and push/pull in and out to check for play in the wheel bearing. Pretty much any play, replace wheel bearing. If ok, do the same with a side to side motion while observing the steering control arm. Look for play. Play in the joint, replace joint. Play in other steering components, replace suspect component. That's about all the stuff could make the wheel wobble unless the rim itself is bent.
We'll I am pretty sure on your impala it is a pressed in to the hub wheel bearing which you will need a press for but first off check what's going on use a jack under the lower control arm and jack it up this will take pressure off the lower and upper ballpoint now use a pry bar to go under the tire and pry it up while the tire is only two inches off the ground or so and if you have play or movement check where with another person using a flash light look at the point where the control arm meets the hub holding you tire on with studs is moving or if there is play but no movement at this point or the same point on the upper control arm not always are control arms same size many times lower is biger or smaller and sometimes only one control arm on different vehicles but If there is no play at the point where the ball joint meets the hub to the control arm look at the more near the inner side of the car of the control arm and look at the rubber circle bushing around a bolt and if there is play there or no strong rubber could be the control arm bushing if that checks ok then check the wheel bearing which is preety common on impalas by going in and out with one hand on top of tire and one on bottom and check the play which if there is you may have felt this before and thought it was ball joint play bit it's either both or just wheel bearing you will know by looking at the tires movements and the control arm ballpoint connections and seeing if this is one or the other if no play in ball joint it's wheel bearing only then you would take brakes off and caliber and rotor then five or so bolts maybe four on the hub like 15 mm I think and remove hub after disconecting links and outer tie rod deferment if torrid should be replaced by moving side to side slightly and feeling play and look at it if there is a small clunk or pop feel side to side then take the hub to have old bearing pressed out and new put in you can't do this with money efficient cost on tools your self :) then put back together
The front suspension allows each wheel to compensate for changes in the road surface without affecting the opposite wheel. Each wheel independently connects to the frame with a steering knuckle, ball joint assemblies, and upper and lower control arms.
The control arms specifically allow the steering knuckles to move in a three-dimensional arc. Two tie rods connect to steering arms on the knuckles and an intermediate rod. These operate the front wheels.
The two-wheel drive vehicles have coil chassis springs. These springs are mounted between the spring housings on the frame and the lower control arms. Double, direct acting shock absorbers are inside the coil springs. The coil springs attach to the lower control arms and offer ride control.
The upper part of each shock absorber extends through the upper control arm frame bracket. This bracket has two grommets, two grommet retainers, and a nut.
A spring stabilizer shaft controls the side roll of the front suspension. This shaft is mounted in rubber bushings that are held by brackets to the frame side rails. The ends of the stabilizer shaft connect to the lower control arms with link bolts. Rubber grommets isolate these link bolts. Rubber bushings attach the upper control arm to a cross shaft. Frame brackets bolt the cross shaft.
A ball joint assembly is riveted to the outer end of the upper control arm. A rubber spring in the control arm assures that the ball seats properly in the socket. A castellated nut and a cotter pin join the steering knuckle to the upper ball joint.
The inner ends of the lower control arm have pressed-in bushings. The bolts pass through the bushings and join the arm to the frame. The lower ball joint assembly is a press fit in the lower control arm and attaches to the steering knuckle with a castellated nut and a cotter pin.
Ball socket assemblies have rubber grease seals. These seals prevent entry of moisture and dirt and damage to the bearing surfaces.
Four-wheel drive models have a front suspension that consists of the control arms, a stabilizer bar, a shock absorber, and right and left torsion bars. The torsion bars replace the conventional coil springs. The lower control arm attaches to the front end of the torsion bar. The rear end of the torsion bar mounts on an adjustable arm at the crossmember. This arm adjustment controls the vehicle trim height.
Two-wheel drive vehicles have tapered roller sheel bearings. These bearings are adjustible and need lubrication.
Four-wheel drive models and RWD Utilities have sealed front-wheel bearings. These bearings are pre-adjusted and need no lubrication.
Heat treatment may create darkened areas on the bearing assembly. This discoloration does not signal a need for replacement.
Hope this helps?
Raise and support the vehicle with safety stands. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
Remove the tire and the wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Wheels, Tires and Alignment.
Unload the torsion bar. Refer to Torsion Bar and Support Assembly Replacement
Remove the wheel driveshaft nut and washer.
Disengage the wheel driveshaft from the wheel hub and bearing assembly. Place a brass drift against the outer end of the wheel driveshaft in order to protect the wheel driveshaft threads. Sharply strike the brass drift with a hammer. Do not attempt to remove the wheel driveshaft from the wheel hub and bearing assembly at this time.
Remove the stabilizer shaft. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Replacement (RWD) or Stabilizer Shaft Replacement (4WD).
Remove the shock absorber. Refer to Shock Absorber Replacement (RWD) or Shock Absorber Replacement (4WD).
Remove the nuts and bolts securing the lower control arm to the crossmember and the frame bracket.
Remove the lower ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Refer to Lower Ball Joint Replacement (RWD) or Lower Ball Joint Replacement (4WD).
Remove the lower control arm from the frame.
have fun and be careful wear always lens and gloves
Before I raise the car and place on jack stands, I loosen the top nut on the strut bearing. If you don't have an air gun to remove the nut there are tools available from online tool shops. A 1/2" drive breaker bar is attached on top of the tool while an allen wrench seen in the middle counter acts the by holding the strut in place.
Tool without the allen to use as a counter act, used with a regular L allen wrench.
Remove bolts that secure the swaybar to the control arm.
Use this tool to remove the tie rod ball joint with this tool.
With a automatic center punch tool, mark three reference points on the lower control arm ball joint flange (not on control arm. This will help line up the ball joint to the control arm without messing alignment putting back together.
Remove the 3 bolts that secure the ball joint to the control arm and wiggle out the ball joint and the wheel bearing housing away from the control arm.
Remove the large bolts that secure the strut to the wheel bearing assembly, this will somewhat loosen the hold on the strut.
With a long pry bar or a long pipe wedged on the control arm, position it when the time comes you need to counter act downwards.
On the wheel bearing assembly where the strut is buried, there will be a slot which you need a 1/4" drive extension attached to a 1/4" ratchet wedged into the slot.
Crank the ratchet slowly until it spreads the slot securely and wide enough to release the strut assembly.
With the strut separated from bearing assy. secure the strut from dropping and loosen the top nut above the strut bearing, remove strut from vehicle.
I don't know how far you want assistance but if need further info just let me know.
i have the exact same problem ive got 2001 honda civic and have an annoying rattle from the wheel area. i have replaced cv joint, ball joint, sway bar drop links, strut, and suspension bushing and arm....but still rattle noise is there. dnt have a clue what it could be, from looking on the internet i have found few possibilities.....lower control arm/bushin...motor mounts....gear box mounts....strut rod bushing....axle....inner/outer cv joint....calliper pins......shock/shock bushing...or wheel bearing. im hoping tio get all this checked out its got to be able to be fixed somehow!
Removal & Installation
This procedure requires the use of the following special tools: J 9519-E Lower Ball Joint Remover and Installer, J 34874 Booster Seal Remover/Installer, J 41435 Ball Joint Installer, J 45105-1 Ball Joint Flaring Adapter and J 45105-2 Receiver.
On 4WD vehicles, remove the wheel center cap and drive axle nut.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Tire and wheel
Wheel hub and bearing, if necessary
Outer tie rod retaining nut
Out tie rod from the steering knuckle using a suitable puller
Brake hose bracket retaining bolts and bracket
Upper control arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut
Upper control arm from the steering knuckle
Lower ball joint retaining nut
Steering knuckle from the lower control arm using a suitable ball joint removal tool
Steering knuckle from the vehicle
Lower ball joint flange with a chisel
Install tools J 9519-E and J 34874 to the lower ball joint, then use those tools to remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm.
Install or connect the following:
Lower ball joint to the lower control arm, using tools J 9519-E, J 41435 and J 45105-2
Remove the tools from the lower control arm.
Tools J 9519-E and J 45105-1 to the lower ball joint
Flare the lower ball joint flange with J 9519-E and J 45105-1, then remove the tools from the lower ball joint.
Steering knuckle to the lower control arm
Lower ball joint retaining nut and tighten to 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
Upper control arm to the steering knuckle
Upper control arm pinch bolt and nut and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
Brake hose bracket to the steering knuckle
Brake hose bracket retaining nuts and tighten to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm)
Outer tie rod to the steering knuckle
Outer tie rod retaining nut and tighten to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
Wheel hub and bearing, if removed
Tire and wheel
Lower the vehicle
Drive axle nut, if 4WD, and tighten to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm)
these are actually easy to replace on these cars. there are 3 small bolts that hold the ball joint to the control arm. new ball joints are sold with new hardware, so don't worry if it gets damaged when removing. mark the postion of the old ball joint. they can be moved slightly on the control arm to change alignment. the top of the ball joint is clamped into the wheel bearing housing with one large bolt. I use a very large & dull chisel to spread the clamp on the bearing housing if the top of the ball joint is difficult to pull out of the wheel bearing housing.