Question about 1989 Ford Taurus
I don't know..... but what you are saying sounds typical of a bad alternator not recharging, when you had it tested did they test it in the car or did they have you remove it and bench test it?
Let the shop run the vehicle and be certain the belt is not getting loose from heat causing it to stretch and causing the alternator to stop charging, as well I still have my doubts about the alternator, this vehicle has the regulator built into the alternator, also the alternator has a diode pack inside it and many other factors that can change from hot to cold (stator windings etc.) concerning output voltage.
Who and how did it get tested?
Needs to be checked with all accesories on needs to read 13.0-14.5 volts dc anything less is causing the discharge, I am a firm believer that if the regulator is defective and it is mounted inside the alternator....why would you not change both as a unit, another 100.00 saves you the stress of getting stuck someplace you don't want to be in the first place, the alternator is as old as the regulator... so wear factors and time come into play as well as rip and tear down time also replace the belt if it is original while this thing is apart, and be certain the wiring off the alternator is not frayed or broken or grounding anywhere.
Have the system tested by a reputable source with expert test equipment to eliminate any guess work that may be over looked with home owners test devices.
If you were to statically te4st the stator windings and commutator cold you may find them to be picture perfect on an ohms scale however let it heat up a bit and you may see quite another picture of an open winding causing discharge under stress.
You did a good job and if the problem was solved you would be in good shape sometimes you have to let the techs take over, seems that way in everything we do...from cars to electrical appliances.
Good job hope this all helps ease your mind and gives you direction at this critical time.
Posted on Aug 09, 2010
Is the battery light on in the dash when the engine is running? did u replace the large connector at the Alternator? what is the voltage output of the alternator? if should be 13.3 volts or more at idle.
Posted on May 12, 2010
I undertsna dthat you are make few change/replace parts there, even with this changes, several task to check here, try it:
* Sounds like your alternator is not recharging your battery. Your battery has become so low that it can only light the lights when there is no heavy load (starter). Your alternator may be defective or have bad wiring.
* Check the voltage on the battery, have someone try to start it and see if the voltage holds above 12v. If not, your battery is discharged. If the voltage stays up, check your battery terminals and cables. You need to get 12v to the vehicle as well.
* Check your battery terminals. If they are loose, you can have this problem. Check your battery cables. You need to be getting 12V to the rest of the car. Check the battery voltage when the key is on. What made me think the battery went down. With the headlights on, what is the voltage at your battery? At the fusebox?
* Next, measure the voltage between the starter hot wire and the block. Again it should have good voltage. Is this is around 13V, sounds like your battery is great! Now we continue to check the power supply.
Any RELAY can have bad connection and making ground; various relays are used in conjunction with the vehicle's electrical components. If a relay should fail it must be replaced with one of equal value.
Replacement is simply a matter of disengaging the electrical connector and sliding the relay from its mounting. Depending on a vehicle's equipment, it may contain several of the following relays.
- Alternator Output Control Relay -located between the right front inner fender and fender splash shield (if equipped with 3.0L or 3.8L engines and a heated windshield. - Anti-lock Motor Relay -located in lower left front of engine compartment (if equipped with anti-lock brakes).
- Anti-lock Power Relay -located in left rear corner of engine compartment (if equipped with anti-lock brakes).
- Autolight Dual Coil Relay -located behind the center of the instrument panel on the instrument panel brace (if equipped with automatic headlights).
- Fog Light Relay -located behind the center of the instrument panel on the instrument panel brace.
- Horn Relay -located behind the center of the instrument panel on the instrument panel brace.
- LCD Dimming Relay -located behind the center of the instrument panel on the instrument panel brace (if equipped with automatic headlights). - Low Oil Level Relay -located behind the center of the instrument panel on the instrument panel brace. - Moonroof Relay -located behind the right side of the instrument panel (if equipped with a moonroof).
- Police Accessory Relay -located behind the center of the instrument panel on police models.
- Starter Relay -located on the left fender apron, in front of the strut tower. - Window Safety Relay -located behind the right side of the instrument panel (if equipped with power windows).
Finally, for one "no start" condition, the problem may lie in the ignition switch itself. It may be staying in the on position from what you are discribing and draining the battery. Doing an electrical load test will tell you the condition of your alternator. The ignition switch is easy to remove and replace. Most parts houses carry them. The only thing here if replaced, you will have a different key unless you want to have a locksmith key it to the original. On the steering column underneath the key cylinder, there is a samll hole. Disconnect the battery, turn the key to the on position and put a small pick straight up through the hole. There is a pin that will disengage the cylinder allowing you to pull the cylinder out. Once out follow the directions on the replacement to re-install. The cylinder has to be in a proper position(start)so it engages.
Its possible that this wiring diagrams can helpfull...
Fig.: Body wiring diagram-1989-90 vehicles
Fig.: Starting and charging system wiring diagram-1989-90 vehicles
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Posted on May 12, 2010
Hi! New battery, alternator and voltage regulator installed, theres no way it can be drained. Have you checked it with your auto electrician mechanic? This may require on hand checking for faulty or grounded wirings. This can only be the reason thats why it always fails. Please see an auto electrician to trace it out. Let me know how it goes. Good luck!
Posted on May 12, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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