Question about 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

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I have no barkes i put all new lines on and no i bleed them starting whit right rear and still no

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When you stand on the brakes does the pedal feel soft or hard? If soft the chances are you still have air in the system. Tighten (not too much just enough to prevent the escape of brake fluid) all the bleed nipples. Now make sure there is fluid to the maximum in the master brake reservoir. Stand on the brakes to extend all the slave pistons as far as they can go with the current situation. Starting with the the right back (as you correctly did originally) put your finger tip over the end of the nipple and undo it with an open ended spanner by only a quarter of a turn. Have a friend step on the brake pedal. When he has got to the bottom of travel push your finger hard on the nipple tip and tighten the nipple gently with e the spanner. Your friend can now release the brake pedal slowly. Again ask your friend to press on the pedal and then you undo the nipple a quarter of a turn to bleed of the fluid (and bubbles). When your friend reports that the pedal is on the floor, again tighten the bled nipple. Again your friend can only now release the brake pedal slowly. There will come a point when your friend will notice some resistance to the pedal before you slacken the bleed nipple to bleed the fluid. Keep bleeding this brake until a quarter of a pint of fluid has been pushed through and now tighten the bleed nipple firmly. Add fresh brake fluid to the brake reservoir under the hood. Now repeat this process with the back left wheel, then front right and then front left. The important thing is 1) ensure that the brake pedal is never lifted until the bleed nipple is tight otherwise air is sucked in through the nipple; having your finger tip on the end can help avoid this and 2) to ensure that the reservoir is always full of brake fluid so that only fluid can enter the system and not air 3) that you bleed plenty of fluid through the system, when you replace brake lines it is surprising just how many little pockets of air can hide in it. Good luck

Posted on May 12, 2010

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I PUT NEW BRAKES. HUBS AND WHEEL CLY. ON MY 94 TEMPO. THE LEFT SIDE BLEEDS BUT THE RIGHT SIDE DONT. WHAT CAN BE WRONG?


Sounds like a leak in the brake line.
In the first place the front disc brakes do 70% of the work to stop the vehicle .
When you need to bleed your brakes you break into the system this lets fluid out air will get in every time so even a pin hole in the line or at a fitting will let air in slowly .The problem is air is compressible fluid is not so look for leaks at rear lines and fittings its vary common for rear lines to rust out and many inexpensive ways to repair them .
An other thing to know is when bleeding brakes is if you didn't open the front lines you don't need to bleed them but with the rears start with the farthest one away from the master cylinder passenger side rear 99% of the time and work back to the master .
I think your whole problem is a rusted out line 94 thats a lot of road salt good luck

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Front passenger side brake line won't seal. Bleeding brakes all around starting at right rear and the right front started to leak and won't seal (bolt that holds the brake line) and now has drained the...


Put a new copper washer under the flex hose
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There is no bleeding the master,just do the system
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Did you bleed rear brakes also? Should do all 4 whenever bleeding brakes starting w/ right rear, left rear, right front then left front. Sounds like air in lines.

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This is bizarre... I'm suspecting dirt in line(s). Are you bleeding correctly? Starting w/ Right rear, left rear, right front, then left front. You might try using a power bleeder also. A possible long shot, is brake proportioning valve sticking.

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Did you remember to bench bleed the new master cylinder before installing it on the truck, to get all the air out of it?

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Need to know location of the bleed valve


bleeder valves are used to extract air from hydraulic systems, such as brake and clutch actuators. The bleeder nut is always located high on the slave cylinder. There is one on each wheel of your car. For disk brakes, it's near the top of the brake caliper. For drum barkes, it's behind the wheel hub.
For a clutch, it's on the top of the transmission at the slave cylinder. To bleed, one person must depress the padal while another person opens and then closes the bleeder. The person in the car pumps up and then holds the pedal down, then tells the other person to open and then close the bleeder. This must be done repeatedly for each line that might have air in it until no air comes out during the bleed cycle. If air got in at the master cylinder, start bleeding at the slave furthest from the master cylinder (right rear) and work your way to the closest (left front). Brake fluid is corrosive, so use a catch pan and clean up afterwards.

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Brake pedal goes to floor i have already changed mastercylinder and bleed brakes no waring lights are coming on new brake have been installed


sounds like air in the line. Did you start your bleed at the right rear.If you replaced the M/C you have air in the line.Get a helper and pump the brakes until all of the air is out , starting at right rear.It may take a few tries to get all the air out , but with new everything it is this or a leak. Was the master C. new or rebuilt. Check all 4 wheels for any sign of a leak. If no leaks and you bleed all the air out maybe your master cylinder is bad.

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1 Answer

Wondering how to bleed rear barkes and calipers on


If you have two people.....press brake pedal...open bleeder screw then close, release brake...repeat until you hear no air bubbles. Fluid will comes out of bleeder. do not reuse. Brake fluid must be clean.
Do one brake at a time. You should feel normal pedal pressure when complete.
If you are by yourself, you can put tubing over the bleeder screw and insert into a small bottle to catch the fluid, and create a air tight seal. It is called a one man bleeder kit.
One other way, is to use a hand vaccum pump to **** to fluid through the lines.
Good Luck! It is easy as pie.

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ALWAYS START YOUR BLEED PROCESS AT THE WHEEL FARTHEST FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER, WHICH IN YOUR CASE IS THE RIGHT REAR, THEN THE LEFT REAR, FOLLOWED BY RIGHT FRONT AND THEN LEFT FRONT.

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to do a complete job. you need to bleed all 4 wheels, starting from Right Rear. Right front. Left Rear. Left Front.

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