Question about 1991 Mazda MX-6

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1991 mazda mx6 start ,runs for 15 minutes then shuts off and wont start for a hour later i changed ignition coil ,cap n rotor but no luck

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This Sounds Axactly Like A INTERMITTEN IGNITION CONTROL MODULE Problem.
Check for SPARK While The NO START CONDITION is IN EFFECT and if NO SPARK
Replace IGNITION CANTROL MODULE
BUT If you DO Have SPARK then Go to the Fuel System and Start at the FUEL PUMP and EUS a PRESSURE GAGE to Check for PROPER FUEL PRESSURE, Also Fuel FILTER Could be A Candidate NOT VERY LIKELYBut Still Still May at Liest CONTRIBUTE to this Condition. But My Experience POINTS at The Ignition Control Module

Posted on May 12, 2010

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1 Answer

I have 1991 mpv v6 3.0 engine. It will not start. I changed the ignition coil and the igniter coil. what else could cause no spark?


Several things, actually. There could be no battery power at the distributor due to a blown fuse or a bad main relay. You could have a bad distributor cap, bad rotor, bad ignition cable between the coil and the distributor cap, a bad Engine Control Unit, a bad distributor pick-up coil, or any of the wiring in-between. (see schematic)


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My car is a 93' Mx-6. I shut it off one, tried to


my mx6 died on me one day,same thing it would keep cranking but would not fire and start towed to a garage spark tested.NO spark changed distributor and problem fixed

Apr 03, 2010 | 1994 Mazda MX-6

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No spark from ignition module on hot start


95 JEEP WRANGLER 4 CYL

No spark. I have changed out the distributor cap, rotor, wiring from coil to cap, and coil was replaced. I checked the distibutor by turning ignition key and observing the rotor turn. What else can I check. I did not observe a module.

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1 Answer

1991 Mazda 626 DX dies suddenly after running for 10 minutes.


Hello, It sounds like an engine ignition control module gone out or a coil. They get hot and quit working after a short period of time, cool off then work again till they get hot.
Is the ignition system pointless electronic or does it have points? Are you getting any fire at all now to the cylinders? Does the tach in the vehicle show any RPM's during cranking? Do you have voltage at the positive side of the ignition coil? Does the coil meet the ohm ratings for that years vehicle ignition? Does the vehicle have oil in it so the oil pressure sensor allows the engine to run, this may not be an option on your particular vehicle? You can check most of this out with a volt/ohm meter. Check your voltages before starting the vehicle, during running and after it quits to see where the loss is. Just don't get near the center tap of the coil or you will get a rude awakening and/or serious injury. Good luck, RAC

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1994 mazda mx6 problems


It has a transmission problem. take it in for a scan. That should reveal the possible causes too.

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Mar 20, 2009 | 1994 Mazda MX-6

1 Answer

Whiledriving the revs drop, and there is no drive, then stalls


Well it's possible that when the mechanic sprayed your engine he may have also used cold water or lukewarm water to rinse it. Or the silicone itself was cold coming from the can. If the coil/coil packs were hot at the time, or the ignition module was, it is likely that the cold liquid(s) spraying on the hot electronics may have cracked either the coil magnet or the ignition module causing them to fail. Repeated misfiring from damaged coils or ignition modules can cause failure at the rotor and distributor cap by constant crossfiring inside. You'll want to remove the distributor cap and look inside for evidence of burnt, broken, or cracked electrodes. If they appear blackened or melted/burnt you will definitely need to replace the cap and rotor. Before replacing them however, you may want to take a close look at your coil or coil packs and the ignition module. One way to check the coil to see if it is cracked is this: Place the vehicle in a darkened area or wait til it is dark out if you can't move it. Since the vehicle isn't running everything should be cold so this test won't damage anything any further. Fill a spray bottle with warm water. Spray a mist of water on the coil. Have an assistant crank the engine and watch in the dark the area of the coil. If you see a lot of arcing or a halo like effect of electricity you will know the coil magnet is likely damaged. If not, it is probably ok but you'll want to have the ignition control module tested. You can probably have this done at a reputable parts dealer or garage who have the correct electronic test devices. If both the coil and the ignition control module check out ok, go ahead and replace your cap and rotor then try starting her up. Anything that tests bad obviously must be replaced first to get it running and to prevent further damage to the ignition system. If you are getting no spark it is most likely the coil, second most likely the ignition control module. Good luck and let me know how it goes.

Jan 20, 2009 | 1991 Mazda 323

1 Answer

Truck will crank and then shut off


You will need to do your testing while the vehicle is in failure to start mode.Check wether the coil is recieving 12v and pour a little fuel down carb to see if it wants to run.If pouring a little fuel down carb makes the car try to fire up you probably have a fuel pump issue.If it doesnt try to fire you have an ignition problem.Hope you get it sorted and good luck.

Dec 20, 2008 | 1984 Ford F 150

1 Answer

Distributor ECM??


test the starter solenoid(or beat it lightly with a hammer), could be starter or ignition switch

Dec 18, 2008 | 1989 Ford F 350

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