Question about 2004 Mazda 6
My daughter drove her car with the oil to low. She said it started knocking real bad and loosing power and then suddenly it just stopped running, just like you had turned the key off. We got it home and I check the oil and there was none so I put oil in it and tryed to start it. It would turn over and a few times it would act like it was going to start but it wouldn't. It's getting a spark, gas, but it just will not start. Does these cars have a safety switch that will cut the car off when the oil is to low to keep them from messing up the engine? I'm at a loss, I don't know what to do next short of having it towed to the shop.
The are 3 things which make an engine run,1compression 2 fuel 3 spark.take away any one of the 3 the motor wont run.from your description above u have a spark which also means the injectors are "firing" coz they use the same signal as the the spark plugs to fire.Therefore the reason why it's not starting is because it has lost compression due to distortion/damage to components due to overheating caused by lack of oil/lubricant(too much friction generates excessive heat).The pistons,piston rings,cylinder bores,crankshaft, bearings,valves &guides are all damaged and the cylinder is likely warped too.ln other words u need a new engine
Posted on Apr 08, 2016
I have to agree with rejakwilson, by the time the oil light comes on and the engine is knocking like that, the bearings have spun and there is most likely additional top end damage due to the lack of oil. New motor or complete rebuild are the only reliable options.
Posted on Jun 12, 2010
I had a similiar problem with my 2004 Mazda 6S. What happened was the PCV valve failed and caused the oil in the engine to basically get sucked out, after that the engine ate itself and died :(
I had the engine replaced. It was an 04 Mazda 6S V6 Manual Trans motor rebuild. The engine cost about $3500.
It could be something completely different, but putting it out there so you know. Here's a link with more info:
Posted on May 19, 2010
I am Afraid that it is Too Late. What you have Discribed is Indicative of a Classic Engine CATISTROFIC FAILURE due to Lack of Lubercation.
What has happened is Connecting Rod Bearing & or MAIN CRANKSHAFT have Spun out of there SEAT thus Causing the Knocking and Eventual Shut-Down of Engine.
This Is Only Corrected By A MAJOR REBUILD or Replacment of the Engine.
Even if you do Get it to START the Knocking will be there Indicating Rod Bearing Knock.
I am Sorry to be the Bearer of Bad News ,but Unfortunatly this has been a Part of My Profesion for some 30 yrs. I wish you Luck on this.
P.S. IF you OWN the Vehicle and it is in Very good Condition It is More Economical to Replace the Engine in it than to take on Payments for Another Vehicle. God Bless !!
Posted on May 12, 2010
Turn the engine on,only,for about 2 seconds,then off,do this about 10 times then try and start the engine,then repeat this again,do this multiple times and then try to start the engine this will prime the fuel to the injectors.
Posted on May 12, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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