Question about 1998 Mazda MPV
2000 mazda mpv odometer display stays on after engine turned off and key removed.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: mazda 2003 MPV door locks
I just fixed this same problem. It happened to me 3 different times in
a month so I got good at it. Before you dive into removing your door
try this. Pull the door handle and release it letting it snap back
several times. The problem is a half open door latch that won't let the
door unlock. Do this as aggressively as you can to attempt to get the
latch to return to its original position. Check the door lock between
Ok, if that didn't work, here is how to remove the door.
1. Remove the screw behind the door latch, you will have to pop the plastic cover off first.
2. Remove the rubber insert in the door handle
3. Remove the screw that is now visible
4. Now remove the window/lock control module, the back is free but the front has a plastic lip so lift the back up and pull towards the back of the van.
5. Remove the clips that attach to the lock and to the window controls (these can be a pain)
5. (Optional) Remove the bracket that held the window/lock control module
At this point your door is basically free, it is only held in place with plastic clips that can be easily forced off. If your door were open you would simple pull the bottom of the door out (hinged at the window) and lift it off. But since we can't pull because the door is closed we have to force it out.
From here it is pretty simple. Move the seat all the way back and tip the seat way back. Lift the door panel straight up. You will be breaking 2 plastic clips from the rear part but once you do it just pulls out. This is not that easy because the space is limited but just keep pulling and force the rear end of the door panel past the b-pillar. Once you do this it is free.
Have fun and try to keep the black gook from getting everywhere.
Oh, to fix the door lock just oil/grease it and manually move the mechanism several times.
Posted on Nov 11, 2008
It is not a very difficult task, but one that would be better left to a professional for a couple of reasons. First, the system should be tested to be sure this is going to fix your problem. Many times a bad battery is the demon. Second, you will get a warranty with that repair if you have it done at a reputable garage/dealership. Just a couple of things to think about.
Posted on Jan 05, 2009
The reason is the water pump is driven off the timing belt, extra parts and allot more labor. No the eng does not have to be removed, labor time around 4 hours, parts about, about $125 US for parts, if it is a dealer add $75 US
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
I replaced this sensor about 6 months ago. (If this is the sensor that is located near the firewall on the exhaust manifold under the ignition coil.) The only way to easily replace it, is to remove the MAF and air filter assy. then remove the intake plenum, remove the ignition coil, and then you'll have access to the sensor. You'll need a sensor removal socket. If the socket slips around the hex of the sensor, then you'll need to use a regular deepwell socket and cut the cable from the top of the sensor, or use a combination wrench that will fit it.
The most difficult part of removing the intake plenum is getting the nut loose from the EGR valve. DO NOT just remove the two bolts holding it to the intake plenum. It will not line up correctly during re-assembly and may not seal tightly either.
This took about a Saturday to do. You'll need new plenum gaskets to replace the old. While your at it remove the throttle body and clean the carbon from the ports that lead to the EGR valve and replace that gasket as well. The gaskets will run about $30.
Posted on May 04, 2009
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