Question about 1965 Ford Mustang

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65 mustang, shaking when idling and bogging down when first trying to pick up speed. This is after mechanic put in new thermostat, spark plugs, and worked on the timing, saying the timing was off. It wasn't having these problems before he worked on it, so seems like too much of a coincidence. I had returned to him after he put the thermosta and spark plugs in because it was shaking in idle. He said the timing was off and started working on the timing, changing some type of hose around, connecting it a different way to the distributor, and also replacing part that spins (only about $7 part, so not sure what that was).

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It sounds like he has the spark plug wires in the wrong firing order. Those are the "hoses" you see on the distributor cap. He changed the rotor $7 part. The timing won't make it shake. It can be off 10 degrees from specification an still run ok. Is it a 6 cylinder or V8?

I'm pretty sure he has 2 spark plug wires out of order. He needs to look up firing order of engine.
When he transferred wires from the distributor cap or put them back on after the plug change, he must have put 2 in different places.

Only other possibility is he cracked a spark plug installing them, it happens.

Posted on May 11, 2010

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My 65 mustang stalls whenever i stop then it starts right back up


Hello Larry,

Without the car running... You should be able to open
the throttle.. and literally DROP it back to idle...

Observe the action of the THROTTLE RETURN
DASH-POT
T should visibly SLOW the RETURN
of the throttle linkage like a door closer...

If you do not SEE the slowess... the dashpot
should be replaced (they are getting SCARCE).

SIX CYLINDER (EXAMPLE (only))
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NORS-65-67-MUSTANG-64-67-MERCURY-COMET-FORD-FAIRLANE-FALCON-DASH-POT-C2DZ9B549A-/142309387430?hash=item21224ceca6:g:kE8AAOSwo4pYmKnd&vxp=mtr


You will need to have the THROTTLE RETURN DASH-POT
on your (unspecified) carburetor
tested and adjusted... and the IDLE SPEED correctly set.

Idle Speed and a slow rate of RPM reduction is
critical to the proper function...

Some LESSOR "mechanics" will attempt to raise the
IDLE SPEED to compensate for a malfunctioning
DASHPOT... This will PROFOUNDLY exacerbate
the problem.

Throttle return dashpot (various pictures)
Go to Bing homepage

example DASHPOT (six cylinder)
NORS 65 67 MUSTANG 64 67 MERCURY COMET FORD FAIRLANE FALCON DASH POT...

example 1968 302/5.0L: Falcon, Mustang 2BBL carb
Carter 202 737 Carburetor Dashpot Ford 2 BBL Carburetors Replaces D7ZZ...

Hope this helps

Carnac the Magnificent

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First think I would do is start your vehicle and start to pull the plug wires one at a time, when doing this you should hear the motor bog down when you pull a plug wire, in the event you do not hear it bog down then that means that cylinder is dead. 1. see if it getting spark to the plug 2. if not that could mean that coil going to that plug is bad, but that should come up on a scanner, but one never knows. Good Luck

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1 Answer

Won't run much raster than idle speed


Since there is no background to this, I assume at some point in time, the motor ran ok for you...

The first thing to do is to drain one of your carburators into a glass jar to check for water. If there is water, you will see it separate from the fuel in a couple of minutes. The water is on the bottom. If there is water, you will need to flush the motor with good fuel, one carburator at a time and probably will have to pump your tank.

If there is no water, the easiest thing to try is the following...when the motor starts to bog down, activate the choke. (If you have a side mount box that activates the choke when the fast idle lever is all the way up), you will have to have someone go back to the engine and manually pull the choke lever out. If the motor picks up, the motor is most likely in need of a carb job.

You can then do a cylinder drop test while motor is idleing, momentarily pulling the spark plug wires off of the spark plugs one at a time. If you pull one off and the engine speed does not change, listen for spark at the spark plug connector to the engine. If you hear the clicking of spark spark is probably ok. The issue with that cylinder is probably fuel related...probably a clogged carburator. If one carb is not functioning correctly, they all probably need some work. If you are not into mechanical stuff, you should have a dealer do the work. After the carbs are cleaned, they need to be adjusted for proper idle and idle/air mixture as well as vacuum balanced . If you are going to attempt it yourself be sure to by a manual either from Honda or one after market.

Before the carb job, a good dealer will always do at least a compression and spark check to be sure there is not an internal issue. The spark plugs should be checked at this time and changed out if they look questionable. Only use NGK DR7EA spark plugs not a substitute.

Also, check your oil and be sure it is clean and at the proper level.

There are several other things that it can be, but this is the most common.

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