Question about 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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Hello, with all 4 wheels off the ground,engine running and in gear only 3 wheels are turning. The right front does not. is this normal?

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Unless you have a positraction rear differential, I'm surprised that even three are turning! Four wheel drive is really two wheel drive because both differentials are "open" type. In an open diff, only one wheel has power at any given time. With a positraction, or "limited slip" rear diff, both rear wheels push with fairly even force but the outer wheel is allowed to slip when going around turns. Only true four wheelers have either a limited slip on both ends or "locked" units but it is impossible or really difficult to drive anything like that on the street. If you hold the left front wheel from turning unless the locking unit is broken, the right front should turn.

Posted on May 10, 2010

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FLUSHING THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM 1. RAISE THE FRONT END OF THE VEHICLE OFF THE GROUND UNTIL THE WHEELS ARE FREE TO TURN.

2. REMOVE THE FLUID RETURN LINE AT THE PUMP RESERVOIR INLET CONNECTOR.

3. PLUG THE INLET CONNECTOR PORT ON THE PUMP RESERVOIR.

4. POSITION THE FLUID RETURN LINE TOWARD A LARGE CONTAINER IN ORDER TO CATCH THE DRAINING FLUID.

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6. TURN THE STEERING WHEEL FROM STOP TO STOP.

NOTICE: DO NOT HOLD THE WHEEL AGAINST STOPS WHILE FLUSHING THE SYSTEM. HOLDING STEERING WHEEL AGAINST WHEEL STOPS WILL CAUSE HIGH SYSTEM PRESSURE, OVERHEATING, AND DAMAGE TO THE PUMP AND/OR GEAR. 7. CONTINUE DRAINING UNTIL ALL OF THE OLD FLUID IS CLEARED FROM THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM. ADDITION OF APPROXIMATELY 1 QUART OF NEW FLUID WILL BE REQUIRED TO FLUSH SYSTEM.

8. UNPLUG PUMP RESERVOIR INLET AND RECONNECT RETURN LINE.

9. TURN ENGINE OFF, AND FILL RESERVOIR TO THE "FULL COLD" MARK.

10. CONTINUE WITH FOLLOWING PROCEDURE "BLEEDING THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM".

BLEEDING THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM AFTER REPLACING THE FLUID OR SERVICING THE POWER STEERING HYDRAULIC SYSTEM, YOU MUST BLEED AIR FROM THE SYSTEM. AIR IN THE SYSTEM PREVENTS AN ACCURATE FLUID LEVEL READING, CAUSES PUMP CAVITATION NOISE AND OVER TIME COULD DAMAGE THE PUMP. TO BLEED THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM PROCEED AS FOLLOWS:

1. BEGIN WITH THE ENGINE OFF, FRONT WHEELS OFF THE GROUND, AND WHEELS TURNED ALL THE WAY TO THE LEFT.

2. ADD LOW TEMPERATURE CLIMATE SERVICE FLUID TO THE "FULL COLD" MARK ON THE FLUID LEVEL INDICATOR.

3. BLEED THE SYSTEM BY TURNING THE WHEELS FROM SIDE TO SIDE WITHOUT HITTING STOPS.

IMPORTANT: THIS MAY REQUIRE TURNING THE WHEELS FROM SIDE TO SIDE TWENTY TIMES. ON SYSTEMS WITH LONG RETURN LINES OR FLUID COOLERS, TURNING STEERING WHEEL LOCK-TO-LOCK FORTY TIMES MAY BE REQUIRED. KEEP THE FLUID LEVEL AT THE "FULL COLD" MARK. FLUID WITH AIR IN IT HAS A LIGHT TAN APPEARANCE. THIS AIR MUST BE ELIMINATED FROM THE FLUID BEFORE NORMAL STEERING ACTION CAN BE OBTAINED. 4. START THE ENGINE. WITH THE ENGINE IDLING, RECHECK THE FLUID LEVEL. IF NECESSARY, ADD FLUID TO BRING THE LEVEL TO THE "FULL COLD" MARK.

5. RETURN THE WHEELS TO THE CENTER POSITION. LOWER FRONT WHEELS TO THE GROUND. CONTINUE RUNNING THE ENGINE FOR TWO OR THREE MINUTES.

6. TEST THE VEHICLE TO BE SURE THE STEERING FUNCTIONS NORMALLY AND IS FREE FROM NOISE.

IMPORTANT: INSPECT FOR FLUID LEAKAGE AT CONNECTION POINTS ALONG THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM. 7. RECHECK THE FLUID LEVEL AS DESCRIBED IN STEPS 3 AND 4 EXCEPT THAT THE FLUID LEVEL SHOULD NOW BE UP TO THE "FULL HOT" MARK AFTER THE SYSTEM HAS STABILIZED AT ITS NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE.

FIGURES: 1 ATTACHMENT

Figure 1

GENERAL MOTORS BULLETINS ARE INTENDED FOR USE BY PROFESSIONAL TECHNICIANS, NOT A "DO-IT-YOURSELFER". THEY ARE WRITTEN TO INFORM THOSE TECHNICIANS OF CONDITIONS THAT MAY OCCUR ON SOME VEHICLES, OR TO PROVIDE INFORMATION THAT COULD ASSIST IN THE PROPER SERVICE OF A VEHICLE. PROPERLY TRAINED TECHNICIANS HAVE THE EQUIPMENT, TOOLS, SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS AND KNOW-HOW TO DO A JOB PROPERLY AND SAFELY. IF A CONDITION IS DESCRIBED, DO NOT ASSUME THAT THE BULLETIN APPLIES TO YOUR VEHICLE, OR THAT YOUR VEHICLE WILL HAVE THAT CONDITION.

Hope this may help:

Regards,
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My 1987 GMC s15 automatic 4x4 pickup keeps popping out of normal gear. The only gear it stays in is 4 low. Where do I start?


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3 Answers

4wheel drive wont engage


First, start checking the fuses an there is also an electrial activaced switch at the transmission or transfer case that may be bad.

95-96
Your control knob should say 2wd, 4auto, 4low.

First, we need to narrow it down to a transfer case issue, or a front axle issue.
Step 1) Jack up the front end and place it securely on jack stands.
Step 2) Verify that the front driveshaft turns by hand. When turning the front driveshaft by hand, the front wheels may or may not turn. Do not be alarmed if they don't turn. This is normal for your vehicle.
Step 3) Start the vehicle and let it idle. Place your foot firmly on the brakes, place the transmission in NEUTRAL, engage 4low, then place the vehicle back in park. DO NOT ENGAGE ANY GEAR!! The lurch as the transmission engages could cause the vehicle to lurch and potentially fall off the jack stands.**If you can turn the front driveshaft, the transfer case is not locking. This could be due to a mechanical issue with the transfer case itself, or an electrical gremlin with the control system. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.
**If the front driveshaft does not turn, the transfer case is locking properly and we need to continue searching.
Step 4) With the front wheels in the air, engine idling in PARK, spin one front wheel. The other wheel should spin the opposite direction. If both wheels spin in opposite directions, then the front axle *should* be properly engaged. Take it for a test drive (after safely lowering it to the ground, of course). If the front wheels do not spin in opposite directions, there is a problem with the front axle. This could be due to a mechanical problem with the diff, or a failure of the center axle disconnect to engage the passenger side axle shaft. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.

Troubleshooting the CAD on a 95-96 is a bit more involved than I want to get into here, and the problems can vary widely. This'll get you started.


97-01 4-door and 96-00 Sports
Your control knob should say 4auto, 4high, 4low.
First, we need to narrow it down to a transfer case issue, or a front axle issue.

Step 1) Jack up the front end and place it securely on jack stands.

Step 2) Verify that the front driveshaft turns by hand. When turning the front driveshaft by hand, the front wheels should turn. (If only one turns, don't be alarmed. One wheel sometimes has more resistance in the brakes, bearings, or CV joints. This is normal)
Step 3) Start the vehicle and let it idle in PARK. Engage 4high. DO NOT PUT THE VEHICLE IN GEAR!!! Crawl underneath and see if you can turn the front driveshaft.
**If you can turn the front driveshaft, the transfer case is not locking. This could be due to a mechanical issue with the transfer case itself, or an electrical gremlin with the control system. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.
**If the front driveshaft does not turn, the transfer case is locking properly and we need to continue searching.
Step 4) With the front wheels in the air, engine idling in PARK, spin one front wheel. The other wheel should spin the opposite direction. If both wheels spin in opposite directions, then the front axle *should* be properly engaged. Take it for a test drive (after safely lowering it to the ground, of course). If the front wheels do not spin in opposite directions, there is a problem with the front axle. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.


'01-'03 Sport and '01-'05 Sport Trac
Your control knob should say 2wd, 4high, 4low

The transfer case in these trucks functions essentially like the 1st-gens' 13-54 t-case. (i.e. it uses a lockup collar engaged by the transfer case shift motor) The troubleshooting procedure is very similar, but you don't need to worry about hubs or center-axle disconnects engaging.

Step 1) Jack up the front end and place it securely on jack stands.
Step 2) Verify that the front driveshaft turns by hand. When turning the front driveshaft by hand, the front wheels should turn. (If only one turns, don't be alarmed. One wheel sometimes has more resistance in the brakes, bearings, or CV joints. This is normal)
Step 3) Start the vehicle and let it idle in PARK. Engage 4high. DO NOT PUT THE VEHICLE IN GEAR!!! Crawl underneath and see if you can turn the front driveshaft.
**If you can turn the front driveshaft, the transfer case is not locking. The shift motor could be falsely reading an incorrect t-case position, or it could be a mechanical issue with the case itself. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.
**If the front driveshaft does not turn, the transfer case is locking properly and we need to continue searching.
Step 4) With the front wheels in the air, engine idling in PARK, spin one front wheel. The other wheel should spin the opposite direction. If it does, the system should be properly engaged. Safely lower the vehicle to the ground and take it for a test drive. If the wheels do NOT spin in opposite directions, there is a problem with the front differential or axle. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.


Keep us updated.

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1 Answer

2005 f150 front hubs noisey goes away when put in 4 wheel drive then back in two.


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This is a block diagram of the IWE vacuum system
sscullys_37.jpg

There is a TSB on the IWE solenoid for the 04 to early build 06 MY F-150s ( right click save as )
http://my.voyager.net/~sscully/file_tsb06_08_15.pdf

This is for the early build where water can get into the IWE vacuum system, causing weak vacuum at the IWE, and the spring is part engaging.

With the engine running, pull the IWE vacuum line ( not the vent line ) and measure vacuum, to make sure it is being applied. This is done with the Mode selector switch in 2WD and the engine must be running ( in park, take safety precautions, chock wheels, parking brake, etc )

Until you can get it fixed, pull the vacuum lines on the IWE ( make sure it is the vacuum line, not the vent line that runs into the engine compartment, and just hangs up there ).
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