Question about 1987 Nissan Pickup

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1987 Nissan PU, I replaced the master and slave clutch cyls. I bleed the system and there is no air in the lines but peddle does not get hard. Could the new master or slave cyl be bad? I see you can adjust the length of the master cyl shaft, does it need to go all the way to bottom of the cyl? Could this be the reason the peddle does not get hard?

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  • Zaraki May 11, 2010

    Is the adjustment rod on the clutch master adjusted so that the clutch pedal lever can return all the way back up to the lever stop?

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  • Master
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The shaft should come all the way back, when the pedal is back, the master shaft should be adjusted so there is very little play in the pedal. But it needs some play. Make sure you can see the slave cylinder move when you depress the clutch pedal, you will need help to operate the pedal, while you look.

Posted on May 10, 2010

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Can not bleed clutch on 1987 GMC 2500


There is still air in the system. Try bleeding the m/cyl first by removing the line to the slave cyl and while holding you finger over the opening have someone gently operate the pedal. When you get good fluid past your finger reconnect the line then bleed the slave cyl. as normal.

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Bleeding clutch


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Trying to bleed clutch line in 1997 nissan pu xe 2wheel drive.\r\nhave removed old fluid and removed and overhauled master cylindar. refilled lines and resivour with brake fluid. clutch peddal has zero...


Explain this in some detail
You need a helper to bleed anything
My wife and I, have been bleeding brakes for 35 years, with no issues
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Bleeeding the clutch


This is what I would do.
Fill the master with brake fluid.
Make sure the slave cylinder bleeder is closed.
Have someone pump the clutch pedal fully down and while allowing it to come fully up about 20 times and then hold down.
Now with the clutch held down ........open the bleeder and hopefully some air will come out.
Repeat until fluid appears with out air.
The clutch master cylinder piston must be allowed to come fully back in it's cylinder to take in a new load of brake fluid with every pump and in normal operation.
Another way to bleed it......is to vacuum the fluid through the system from the master cylinder .......connecting to the slave cylinder bleeder valve.

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You either have air in the system or a faulty master cylinder.

Check fluid is being delivered from the master cyl. by slackening off the hydraulic line connection at the master cylinder while depressing pedal.
Until fluid is able to be delivered from the master cyl. itself you have no hope of bleeding the rest of the system.

As with all hydraulic bleeding processes, only release the fluid line when the pedal is being pushed slowly down or held down against the return spring pressure of the clutch pressure plate - re-tighten it on the upward stroke of the pedal to stop it drawing air back into the system.

If you are confident that there is fluid delivery from the master cyl. move to the clutch slave cylinder.

Again only open the bleeder valve when the pedal is being pushed slowly down (i.e. the hydraulic system is pressurised).

(If you keep the master cylinder full of hydraulic fluid, sometimes gravity will cause the line to 'self bleed' if the bleed nipple is left slightly open for several minutes at the start of the bleed process).
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If you have the time to spare, I have often found that provided the master cylinder is kept full, leaving the system overnight will allow a lot of the air to leave the system (gravity helps).

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