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1998 Explorer Sport Brake Booster losing pressure.

Ok here is when i first noticed the problem. I was driving (leaving my neighborhood) and the next stop light there is an Ambulance Station. Ok well I am doing about 45mph getting closer to the 4way intersection light(Green) and an ambulance is coming down the street to my left. Ok well light is green and ambulance is coming and if i go ill cream it. Ok so i slam on my brakes, nothing locks up, and for 10 seconds im STANDING literally on my brakes just to stop and the car wasn't wanting to stop on a dime. It was more like an 18 wheeler pulling the brakes on the trailer but not the truck.

I have noticed this more since that occurance, but its freaking me out more and more, because I dont want to be the one who hits an ambulance or something and have to worry. They work ''OK'' at low travling speeds 0-30, but if i have to do any hard braking it doesn't do much. Someone told me that if i have to hard stop again, pump the brakes rapidly and quickly to maximize the pressure that is available.

Someone please help me with this problem.

I have priced it to preplace the Brake booster and master cylinder myself but i dont have any time to ($152), and i dont have the money to pay someone else($500 + more idk)

Thanks

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6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

emissionwiz
  • 75822 Answers

SOURCE: 1986 Ford F250 Brakes

You are boiling the brake fluid and hence the sinking pedal, go to silicone based synthetic fluid, it will not boil, all the old fluid must be flushed from the system before installing this fluid, this should cure your problem for good.

Posted on Sep 22, 2008

  • 17 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 Ford Explorer brake problem

these rotors are known for rusting onto the vehicle. when you removed them you probably had to beat them off with a hammer. if this is the case then you may have a small amount of surface corrosion on the hub. this could cause your rotor to not sit evenly and cause a wobble. recommend removing the new rotor and cleaning the surface of the hub

Posted on Dec 01, 2008

  • 196 Answers

SOURCE: fading brake pedal

Perfect well at this point i would say that tha abs valve is bypassing fluid. If you can un hook the line that comes into the abs valve and plug it and try and bleed the system where you cap the line going into the abs valve. If you get a good pedal after pluging the line going into the abs valve this tells me that the abs valve is bypassing fluid give it a try i have ran into this a few time and the abs valve has been bad. Also can you rate this sluton also i do hits on my own free time thanks good luck

Posted on Jan 18, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: rt rear turn & brake lights inop

Due to poor design on Fords part. When you use the tilt often, the wires inside due not have enough relief. They are to tight. My 02 sport track had same problem. Wire actually broke off inside the steering column. Take off the lower then upper plastic around column. You probably have broken or loose wires

Posted on Mar 02, 2009

  • 566 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 Ford Explorer Brake Lights Won't come on

hi assume all brake lights including high level light ? are not working ? 1st check is the fuse ? if it is ok? then next check is the brake stop light switch located at the pedal just near the top of pedal the switch is normaly adjustable and screws into the pedal boxframe that pedals fit /pivot to the switch operates on plunger method ie when pedal pressed the small plunger moves out and puts lights on then when pedal released plunger is pushed back lights off the switch is plastic and has a plug with 2 wires attached to test if plug is defective ? unplug wires from switch then using either a paper clip or piece of wire ? connect /join both wires in plug then sitch ign on if lights work ? switch is defective simple diy to replace cost here in uk for switch approx £4 hope this helps ?

Posted on Mar 06, 2009

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