Question about 2000 Jaguar S-Type

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Left side repeater failed - 2000 Jaguar S-Type

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Change the bulb out or clean out the scoket.

Posted on May 10, 2010

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How to fix spongy brakes, or carry out a brake fluid bleed


This is a bleeding process which i have used for over 10 years on everything from motorbikes, cars, trucks and rally cars.

It is as follows : ------

Use 2 people....i know this may be hard to arrange but i have even used my mom.

Use one person to sit in the vehicle, engine off. Now firstly go to the furthest brake bleed nipple from the reservoir. If the reservoir is located on the left hand front of the vehicle, then go to the right hand rear nipple (with wheels off, preferably). And vice-versa.

Next, with the nipple CLOSED, get the assistant to pump the brakes slowly (do not go fast, it is not a race....lol). Down, as far as it will go, and all the way up....repeat 2-3 times.

Next, get them to hold the brake pedal down, now OPEN the bleed nipple, and ask them to repeat, all the way down, and then up again, 2- 3 times, then CLOSE the nipple. This flushes the system out. Again, sloooowly.

Next, with the NIPPLE closed, get assistant to pump the pedal again SLOWLY 2-3 times, this action forces the remaining air in the system to the nipple end of the brake lines.

Next, have your assistant hold the pedal down, gently OPEN the nipple slowly until the fluid comes out...as the fluid is still coming, CLOSE the bleed nipple. DO NOT let them get to the bottom of the stroke.
What happenes if they reach the floor, and you still have the nipple OPEN, is that a small amount of air leaks into the system, and after a couple of days driving with heat expansion, your brakes are spongy again.

Repeat this 2-3 times on that wheel.

Go to the opposite side of the vehilce now, the left hand rear wheel and perform the same action.

Then the right front wheel.

And finally the left front wheel, the closest to the brake master cylinder reservoir.

Remember to use fresh, new up to date brake fluid.

And use a clear tube or straight into a bucket, so that you can see successfully the air coming out of the system.

Failing this, if you have bled the sytem properly, and this still occurs, and you have no leaks, it is time for a brake master cylinder replacement. As there is a number of rubber seals that keep each brake sytem seperate, within the master cylinder as a safety precaution. If one sytem fails...ie left front brake hose leaks, then that side of the sytem (the left front and right rear, in a opposite system) will leak out, BUT the right front system(which includes the left rear as well)will still maintain pressure to be able to slow the vehicle down to a stop (obviously with increased pedal travel)

REMEMBER not to get any brake fluid on the paintwork, as it is a great paint remover (over time). If you do get it on the paintwork, just wash off with water immediately.

I hope this helps all of those who read this advice.

Please vote if you liked it !!!

And happy motoring.............

on Jun 30, 2010 | Mitsubishi Outlander Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Jeep 2005 left turn signal not working. all bulbs good


all bulbs good by what method>?
guessing?
bulbs can be good, bad or shorted,
testing them takes skills,
the flicker usually means that side is shorted.
remove all left bulbs, now put in just 1 new bulb. (not used)
work now. repeat, with other socket a new bulb.
Im not teaching how to test lamps ,ever, for 50 cent part.
can but wont.
if the blinker (turns) still fails. then find the short in the wiring
I always start at left rear.
looking for UHAUL trailer hacks there
then left front for collision damage not cured correctly.
see?
if still bad, then the whole left side wiring must be inspected
starting at sockets.
this is on all cars, made, but not 2008 up, on jeeps
on those you scan it first.

Nov 14, 2016 | Jeep Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Changed fuses fow tow connector. #3 and # 7. Now the left trailer light,signal, brake,etc works while only right tail light on trailer still works. On right side, the tail works, but not the brake,or...


I would recommend taking out the tail light. Get a test light, have an assantant step on brake. U will see the bulb in tailamp light up. Probe the wire w/your test lamp. That is brake wire. Repeat that process for blinker.. Drop down those two wires. Hook that to the same side on trailor. Repeat for left and you should be all set.

Dec 13, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What causes the CPS to go bad repeatedly in a 2001


USA car or the Export?

tell me what CPS means. we dont use that name since 1990

no engine stated, so how would we answer such a questions.

4.0L or 4.7L or 5.7L ?engine.

my guess is the cam sensor? or the crank sensor?

CKP or CMP?



how often once a week, decade, ?

all parts on care fail repeatably say in 100 years

but my guess i means, inside 5 years, but what, do say.

clear facts make answers very easy.





my wild guess.

The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) on the 4.0L 6 cylinder engine is bolted to the top of the oil pump drive shaft assembly. The sensor and drive shaft assembly is located on the right side of the engine near the oil filter.

The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) on the 3.7L V6 engine is bolted to the front/top of the right cylinder head.

The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) on the 4.7L V-8 engine is bolted to the front/top of the right cylinder head.

The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) on the 5.7L V8 engine is located on right side of timing chain cover below alternator.



The Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) on the 4.0L 6 cylinder engine is mounted to the transmission bellhousing at the left/rear side of the engine block The CKP on the 3.7L, 4.7L and 5.7L engines is located at the left rear of the engine just above the starter motor.



now may guess based on those 2 sensors above.

the CAM SENSOR (in pure english) fails for heat.

all have a tendancy to fail for too much heat,

and for overheating the engine.



the closer it fits the the engine, the more likely it will fail. (heat)

some that fit to cam ends love to fail soon., heat.



failure mode 2 is overvoltage.

if the Alternator goes bad and overvoltage , in fact over 15v

any electronic part can fail, even light bulbs.

mode 3

using a pressure washer can wreck just about anything made.





mode 4

dropping it to the concrete,

you, others, or the shipper,



mode 5

a dumb ,mechanci , hot wired it and burned it up, or injured it. (called the walking wounded)



that pretty much covers it.

but what sensor exactly and what engine.

and how long did it last in months

Oct 15, 2014 | 2001 Jeep Cherokee

1 Answer

I've just changed the brake shoes. How do I bleed the brakes please?


This is a bleeding process which i have used for over 10 years on everything from motorbikes, cars, trucks and rally cars.

It is as follows : ------

Use 2 people....i know this may be hard to arrange but i have even used my mom.

Use one person to sit in the vehicle, engine off. Now firstly go to the furthest brake bleed nipple from the reservoir. If the reservoir is located on the left hand front of the vehicle, then go to the right hand rear nipple (with wheels off, preferably). And vice-versa.

Next, with the nipple CLOSED, get the assistant to pump the brakes slowly (do not go fast, it is not a race....lol). Down, as far as it will go, and all the way up....repeat 2-3 times.

Next, get them to hold the brake pedal down, now OPEN the bleed nipple, and ask them to repeat, all the way down, and then up again, 2- 3 times, then CLOSE the nipple. This flushes the system out. Again, sloooowly.

Next, with the NIPPLE closed, get assistant to pump the pedal again SLOWLY 2-3 times, this action forces the remaining air in the system to the nipple end of the brake lines.

Next, have your assistant hold the pedal down, gently OPEN the nipple slowly until the fluid comes out...as the fluid is still coming, CLOSE the bleed nipple. DO NOT let them get to the bottom of the stroke.
What happenes if they reach the floor, and you still have the nipple OPEN, is that a small amount of air leaks into the system, and after a couple of days driving with heat expansion, your brakes are spongy again.

Repeat this 2-3 times on that wheel.

Go to the opposite side of the vehilce now, the left hand rear wheel and perform the same action.

Then the right front wheel.

And finally the left front wheel, the closest to the brake master cylinder reservoir.

Remember to use fresh, new up to date brake fluid.

And use a clear tube or straight into a bucket, so that you can see successfully the air coming out of the system.

Failing this, if you have bled the sytem properly, and this still occurs, and you have no leaks, it is time for a brake master cylinder replacement. As there is a number of rubber seals that keep each brake sytem seperate, within the master cylinder as a safety precaution. If one sytem fails...ie left front brake hose leaks, then that side of the sytem (the left front and right rear, in a opposite system) will leak out, BUT the right front system(which includes the left rear as well)will still maintain pressure to be able to slow the vehicle down to a stop (obviously with increased pedal travel)

REMEMBER not to get any brake fluid on the paintwork, as it is a great paint remover (over time). If you do get it on the paintwork, just wash off with water immediately.

I hope this helps all of those who read this advice.

Please vote if you liked it !!!

And happy motoring.............

May 27, 2011 | 1992 Daihatsu Charade

1 Answer

1999 ES300 - Repeated Ignition Coil Failures


The coils are probably all the same age and if one goes it is not unusual for the others to follow. Oxygen sensors fail routinely. Some at 15K some at 115K. The failures you have describe for the most part are unrelated to each other.

Jul 12, 2009 | 1999 Lexus ES 300

1 Answer

Left rear turn signal quit on 2000 ford ranger.


Check correct wattage globe is installed in both front and rear indicator lights;
check if any other side/repeat indicator lights have failed.

Jun 18, 2009 | 2007 Ford Freestyle Limited

1 Answer

Procedure to replace left low-beam headlight bulb on 1996 Accord


open hood disconnect the the light bulb connector  the left side that is your low beam. turn light bulb to your left and it comes out. repeat steps to connect just turning to your right...

Apr 09, 2009 | 1996 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Passat Indicators Blowing Fuses 2005 model


It sure sounds like a short in the left signal circuit. I can't say where the wires are routed but you may have one with failed insulation or pinched under some hardware.
You could avoid repeated fuse replacement if you buy a cheap digital multimeter from Radio Shack (if you are in the US) or alternately, from an auto parts store. One adequate for this would be under $20 US. Some have a continuity checker that sounds a 'chime' that stops when the resistance level rises a bit. Since the meter could be damaged if the short clears, it would be smart to disconnect the negative side (ground) of the battery. Putting the probes across the fuse contact will simulate the fuse for this checking but it will not let your signals function. I would punch the probes into the fuse holder, put on the left turn signal and start removing bulbs and checking the routing of the wiring. When the chime stops, you have found the culprit. 

Sep 19, 2008 | 1999 Volkswagen Passat

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