Front struts noisy when steering turned - 2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue

No, Paul, those are three different areas, or things. The tie rods connect to the wheel spindle that the tire is mounted on. That is for steering. The link rods connect the sway bar to each side of the front end- these are high wear items, often replaced.

The third: now the "strut tops" being noisy, this should be of concern to you, insofar as what are they doing about that? Ask them if that means replacing worn struts (quite an added expense), or checking the security of the top mounting-like loose bolts or nuts. I would want specifics on what exactly they mean. The strut tops are where the two front struts mount on the car frame, and usually found under the hood on each side, like 3 nuts holding the top of the strut, and the bottom of the strut is attached to the wheel spindle or wheel knuckle, same thing. So the strut at the wheel, moving up and down, strut absorbs the shock and diminishes it by a solid mounting to the frame- the strut tops. Hope this helps you understand a bit.

The top of the strut mount was not installed properly.

Most likely a worn out steering rack

Also the front strut top bearing plates could be worn

Not the struts,the bearing on top of struts under the hood,
you can see with the nut holding the top of the struts

If you fail to change your power steering fluid every 3
years then you loose the steering rack in about 6 years or so

Automobiles: 2006-2007 Ford Five Hundred 2WD & AWD, Montego

If the steering is getting a little hard to turn at low speeds, this would indicate a loss of Power Steering, and the steering is reverting to "Non-Power" steering, just like the days of the Ford Model T or Model A. Loss of power steering is usually caused by low level of PSF (Power Steering Fluid).
So first on my checklist would be checking the PSF level in the reservoir.
Also bleed (air) from PS (Power Steering) pump.

The Ford Five Hundred has front MacPherson struts, so check these for leakage (of the dampening fluid in the strut cylinder), or breakage of their coil springs.
These springs can actually weaken over time, but this is impossible to see - you must "feel" it by bouncing the strut up & down - preferably with your hands on the top of the strut tower in the engine compartment (rather than on the exterior finish).
If the MacPherson struts have weak/broken springs, these components are not separately serviceable, and the strut would have to be replaced as a unit (and preferably both left/right to maintain smooth/even ride).

The Five Hundred also has rear shock absorbers with springs - check for leaks/breakage/weakness here too.

Steering losing responsiveness/wander - checklist
Priority Action Part Type Cause
1 Inspect Rack & Pinion - Center Wear From Internal Fluid Leaking Around The Rack Piston.
2 Inspect Steering Stabilizer Bracket - Loose or Broken Steering Stabilizer Bracket.
3 Inspect Front Lower Control Arm - Front Lower Control Arm loose/missing bolt(s)
4 Inspect Front Lower Ball Joints - Front Lower Ball Joint(s) Worn/Loose
5 Inspect Front Upper Ball Joints -Front Upper Ball Joint(s) Worn/Loose
6 Inspect Tire Pressure - Tire Pressure should be 35 PSI for the Five Hundred and Montego's P225/55R18 OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) tires.

Harsh ride - checklist

1 Inspect Rear Shock/Strut - Shocks/Strut failing/leaking.
2 Inspect Front Shock/Strut - Shocks/Strut failing/leaking.
3 Inspect Coil Spring - Incorrect Coil Spring Selection or Installation.
4 Inspect Coil Spring - Coil Spring broken.

The belt is loose and will need to be tightened.

Don't understand locking up - if you can't move the steering wheel at all would be a mechanism inside the steering column. is a pin that moves downward out of a plate (typically) as the ignition key is turned from lock to accessory, or start.  If steering is just really stiff then could be a bad steering rack, broken Strut Spring or Strut Bearing (usually noisy when turning as well if you move wheel back and forth and a thump while doing this is a bad strut spring an easy thing to check, or perhaps bad ball-joint or dirt in the power steering system - to flush system remove the low pressure hose from the power steering unit (the one with a simple clamp - Start car while you squirt the old fluid from the system into a container continuously or simultaneously fill with new fluid as someone gently moves the steering wheel slowing back and forth being careful not to overfill or bump into the ends at the extreme ends of the turns as could damage steering rack.  This flushes the system - be prepared for a mess if you don't do properly.  A clear 4L container can be wedged in there if the engine is cool - then when complete put cap on and remove.
Watch out for the belts and any cooling fan that can turn on anytime if an electrical fan.
Finally the steering pump itself may be the culprit.
Good luck.

check the sptings they are likely binding
likely you need upper strut mounts as they are the binding noise

Assuming you have power steering, check fluid level in power steering system.
Check that the power steering pump belt has not fallen off.
Tires that are nearly bald can make the steering effort higher.
Do you have wheels that are not made for this car that have the wrong offset?
Check the strut bearings to see if they are frozen. Look under the front fenders while someone else turns the steering wheel. The strut and spring should turn with the wheel. If the top of the spring does not turn, then the strut bearings need to be replaced.

Did they replace entire strut & spring assy, with new, or just do struts? Feel where spring of strut sits on strut base at bottom & see if you can feel piece of thin rubber between spring & base of strut, or if spring is up against the edge of the base (seat). Sometimes I've seen the rubber between them move and cause spring to rub up against the seat or base of strut, (meatl on metal) especially when turning.

You can Try to Lube them But I Haave Always Replaced the Turntable's