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no
if the thermostat is not opening , the temp will go up until it hits the red and stay there
possible a blocked radiator core not passing enough coolant at rpm
check for transmission not moving to overdrive
run fault codes
Sounds like the water pump is cavitating . Replace water pump. Check coolant level also. Open the bleeder valve usually located on thermostat housing to remove air from system. close valve when coolant is present while filling. close radiator cap and top off recovery bottle to correct level. These engines are prone to overheating, do not let temp gauge get in the red.
Yes , having the vehicle checked for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble code's should always be the first step in diagnostic process when any warning lamps are lit on the instrument cluster . Would be best to have someone with a professional type scanner , that can view engine sensor data . The engine coolant temp. sensor is a input to the PCM - engine computer . Can see what the actual temp. of the engine is . GM had bad stepper motors inside the instrument cluster's 2003 to 2006 , these stepper motors control the gauge needles . Testing what the real temp is an not going by temp gauge . harbor freight tools sells a tool under $30 bucks that can check engine temp .
Infrared Laser Thermometer .. Point it at the thermostat housing . Can use it to tell what temp. the thermostat open .
But , testing is the key ! Not guessing .
Any chance of a head gasket leak? Is the coolant level still full? These were known for head gasket issues. Coolant is a closed system and level will not drop unless there is a leak. Make sure there is no air in the system. Replace the radiator cap to make sure that it is operating properly.
if your vehicle has the electronic climate control, it is probably the blend door motor/actuator that has failed and is stuck at the temp that was last entered in the climate control unit when it failed. this can be a very time consuming repair to do as it is under the dash. the other possibility is your coolant level is low and not allowing the heater core to bring the outside air up to the temp you want. if that is the case,your low coolant temp sensor should have come on. if not, then the thermostat could be either stuck open or closed. if stuck open the engine would not always show the temp gauge at normal operating temp of 195-200 degrees. if stuck closed the engine should be overheating according to the temp gauge. you did not mention what the operating coolant temp was!
your radiator could be getting stopped up. also water pump could be weak. during summer though you have electric fans that should be working. need to check. you can purchase some stuff called water wetter by redline racing oil that will drop water temp 20 degrees which is substantial when a thermostat is usually 180 to 190 and boiling is 212.
When you say "red hot" do you mean actually glowing? If so, you'd have serious trouble. If you mean only hot to the touch, that's normal - these engines run pretty warm. And yes, the gauge in the center is normal - the OEM temp gauge is a dummy gauge, only meant to show you that it's either cold, overheated, or mainly OK. Use your oil temp gauge as your main indicator - at least it's graded numerically and you can actually see the oil temp.
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