Question about 2004 Kia Optima

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How to change crankshaft position sensor 2004 kia optima

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  • Kia Master
  • 75,797 Answers

1st this is for a well experienced home tech with a full tool set, if you get this wrong u can damage the engine.
It is about a 1 hr 20 minutes getting down to the crank sensor. Now remember, I’ve never worked on this car before and there really is a lot to move/remove to get to the whole timing belt and all of it’s components. Your time SHOULD be about 1 hour with these instructions and NO problems with getting bolts and nuts loose.

Add about another hour or so to get it all back together and you should be on the road in a total of about 3 hrs!

Posted on May 09, 2010

  • yadayada
    yadayada May 09, 2010

    1) Obviously = Disconnect the battery. ALSO, after removing the battery from the car, take a pair of jumper cables and connect them to the battery cables in the car and ground the car to a metal rod (a butter knife works too) into the ground. This will remove any residual electrical current in the car. Remember, the Crank Sensor is an electrical part!
    2) Loosen the lug nuts on the passenger front wheel. 21MM Socket required for stock lug nuts. (DO NOT REMOVE THEM!)
    3) Turn the wheels hard right. This will give you more clearance to the crankshaft.
    4) Jack up the passenger front wheel so that you have about 4”-6” of clearance below the front tire. Remember, once you lower the car onto an APPROVED jack stand, there will be less clearance.
    5) Remove the tire, place out of the way. Put somewhere safe so it can’t be stolen!
    6) Now, place a jack under the oil pan near the exhaust pipe and lift about a ½ inch.
    7) Remove the Plastic Engine cover and the bracket on the left side of the timing belt cover. All bolts use a 10MM socket. Simply loosen the bracket and slide it back out of the way.


    8) Remove the Motor Mount next to the Power Steering Pump. There are 2 bolts and a nut near the Timing Belt Cover that must be removed. Then remove the bolt going to the frame. All bolts and nuts are 17MM. You will need a DEEP WELL 17MM for the Nut!
    9) Loosen the Alternator/Water Pump belt. The bolt over the pulley needs to be loosened before loosening the bolt on left the side. (NOTE: Once you get a little slack on the side bolt, simply lift it up out of the holder. No need to keep cranking.) Now PUSH the alternator to the engine, this will loosen the belt and remove the belt off the Alt pulley first. There is a bottom bolt, but with a little muscle, the alt should move. A 12MM socket or wrench works fine here. Lots of room to move.
    10) Loosen the Power Steering/AC/Tensioner belt by loosening the Tensioner Bolt first. It is on the back side of the tensioner. Once that is done, then loosen the bolt on the side. This one you will have to keep loosening until you can get the belt off. A short 14MM socket and ratchet for the tensioner bolt and a 14MM wrench for the side bolt.
    11) Remove the power steering pump bracket. Leave the pump attached to the bracket. There are 2 bolts on the front of the timing belt covers 1 above the other. There are two bolts on the side of the engine block as well. 1 above the other. (NOTE: I ended up removing the Heat shield from the exhaust manifold to gain an extra 1 inch that allowed me to have enough lifting room to break the top mount bolt loose.) The pump housing is very close to the top bolt, so either a CROWS foot or a regular wrench is needed. The bottom bolt is easily handled by a socket and ratchet. All 4 Pump bracket bolts are 14MM and the 3 Heat shield bolts are 12MM. Use the closed end of the wrench on the top bracket bolt by the pump so as not to round the edges.
    12) Remove the Water Pump Pulley. There are 4 bolts. (Now, I lifted the engine up quite a bit w/ the jack so that I was able to get to the water pump bolts easily.) A 10MM wrench is all you will be able to use. No real clearance available. There IS a notch in the center hole to help line up the pulley with all for holes.
    13) Now it’s time to remove the Crank Pulley. (You DO NOT need to remove the Center Crank Bolt if you are NOT replacing the COUNTER BALANCE SHAFT BELT) Just remove the 4 outer bolts. (IF you ARE replacing the Counter Balance Shaft Belt, you WILL NEED an impact wrench and a 22MM socket. Break the bolt loose, then tighten with a ratchet, THEN remove the 4 outer bolts!) (NOTE: There is a very thin roll pin sticking up from the Timing Belt gear and it goes into the Crank Pulley for putting the Crank Pulley in the right position.) If the Crank Pulley won’t move once the 4 bolts are out, simply tap it at the upper / lower / right / left edges until it is loose enough to pull STRAIGHT off. BE CAREFUL TO NOT BREAK THIS PIN. If you do break it, just make sure you line up the hole on the Crank Pulley with where the pin is at on the timing gear. The 4 bolts are 12MM and a ratchet works just fine.
    14) Time to remove the Timing Cover bolts. Before lowering the engine again, remove the 4 bolts on the top piece of the cover and take it off. Then lower the engine all the way down till the oil filter touches the frame. DO NOT REST THE FILTER ON THE FRAME! ALWAYS SUPPORT THE MOTOR! Once you lower the engine, there are about 9 or 10 bolts. A 10MM socket and ¼ inch ratchet will do the trick.
    15) You should now have a clear view of the entire timing belt, pulleys AND the Counter Balance Shaft Belt. The Crank Position Sensor is to the right of the Crankshaft.
    16) Now you have A LOT of little things to do BEFORE removing the timing belt and replacing the Crank Sensor.
    17) First off, get a simple metal marking pen. I bought a white and a red ink marking pens from Walmart in the Scrap Book section of the Crafts & Sewing department. They are about $2.50 each. THEY WILL COME IN HANDY!
    18) Using a 22MM socket and a ½ inch breaker bar, simply rotate the engine until you see ALL of the timing marks are lined up. The crankshaft has a metal plate that kind of looks like a bowtie. There is a notch on it that lines up with a little pointer molded into the block. Once this is lined up, check the OIL PUMP pulley and make sure the notch in the metal plate is lined up with a point molded into the block. NOW check the COUNTER BALANCE SHAFT pulley (it’s that second belt to the upper left of the crank pulley.) It has a circle on the upper pulley that matches a notch on the block.
    19) There is 1 mark each on the CAM SHAFT PULLEYS. The pulley itself has a notch in between two teeth and they match up with a pointer on top of the Valve cover. IF THE CRANK IS LINED UP, but not the Camshafts, simply rotate the crank until the CAMSHAFTS line up, then make sure the other marks are still lined up. Once this is done, the entire engine is in ALIGNMENT. (NOTE: Once you remove the timing belt tensioner, the CAMSHAFTS WILL MOVE!) And the other marks might as well. SO BE PREPARED! Put all the lower marks back on track, beware that the oil pump pulley moves very easy, so keep an eye on it when putting the belt back on.
    20) BEFORE REMOVING THE TIMING BELT TENSIONER = Take the white Metal Marking Pen and highlight each timing mark on each pulley AND the marks molded into the block or Valve Cover! Don’t forget the Camshafts! If reusing the timing belt, be sure to mark the side of the timing belt too, I put a line all the way across the timing belt at each location, this will help in reassembly. Once all your marks are made, you are ready to remove the timing belt.
    21) To remove the Timing Belt tensioner, (it is located above left of the crank pulley and has two bolts holding it in) you need a 12MM socket and I recommend removing the upper bolt first. Now be prepared and keep your fingers clear of the bottom of the tensioner as it will move and may pinch up against the Crankshaft pulley. You won’t hurt the parts, but it may pinch your fingers! Remove both bolts and take out the tensioner. Once you do this, you will see the Tensioner pulley drop and this will loosen the belt. At this time, your CAMSHAFTS WILL MOVE, as well, the lower marks may move too.
    22) Check the Timing Belt Tensioner to make sure it is in good working order. You should NOT be able to press down the little plunger sticking out by simply pushing it against the edge of something. If you can move it w/o a TON of force, you will need to replace it. This part is hydraulic, so heat will make it more movable.
    __________________

  • yadayada
    yadayada May 09, 2010

    here is 2nd set of instructions from a 2004 Optima owner who just did the job of replacing the crank sensor








    your in luck, i just slaved over my sisters kia optima 2004 to replace just that today. theres not really instructions but i can try and give you a break down.

    first remove the top engine cover. then the heat shield on the exhaust manifold to give you working space on top. then jack up the right front side and put a jack stand under it. remove the plactic cover that is on the inner fender by the engine, make sure the tires are turned to the right. then remove the small plastic cover from under the vehicle.

    now you have your working space. youll need 10mm 12mm 14mm 2x 17mm and 22mm socket along with the others in socket ,deep sockets as required. now take the upper timing cover off there is 4 10mm bolts holding it on. this will expose the cams. take your 22mm socket and rotate the engine crank shaft to top dead center, youll see both cam marks pointing up when it is correct. this is to prepare you for removing the timing belt. now start working on the a/c and p/s belt tension to remove the belt. then work on the water and alt belt tensioner to remove that belt, now that you have no belts in your way its time to move the p/s pump out of the way. youll see 4 14mm bolts two on the timing side and two on the back side one holding the oil dip stick. thius is tricky, remove the oil dip stick bolt first then rotate the oil dip stick tube toward the radiator this will give you room. now work on the bolts on the timing side. youll probly not be able to remove these to just get them loose so they slide out. next loosen the 12mm bolts on the p/s pump connecting it to the bracket you can access these by rotating the pulley. remove the one closer to the engine and then only loosen the one next to the radiator this is to to rotate the p/s to gain access and remove the last remaining 14mm bolt connected to the bracket.

    move it toward the right front fender and slide the p/s resivor out to give more movement. now look for the p/s hose that travel back towrd the firewall, youll see a rubber gromet and a 10mm holding it down remove this as well to get this bulky hose out of the way. starting working on the 10mm bolts holding the water pump pulley on, this will take time and youll probly want to start shotgunning a few beers to calm yourself. now that your probly pissed and bleeding from the small space in the vehicle move on to removing the crankshaft pulley. youll need a way to hold the crank with a 22mm socket and the bolts are 12mm. now start removing the 10mm bolts holding the timing cover on. romve this cover and now you should see the timing belt and all the goodys. here comes the fun part, remove the timing belt tensioner its held by 2 12mm bolts its under the big shiny wheel toward the alternator. this will let the timing belt go and youll probly hear the cams settle so dont be alarmed.

    when you remove this tensioner youll see it is hydralic, youll need to compress this slowly in a vise and line up the hole you see in the tip and in the casing of it, its very small so youll need something thats hardened and not going to bend, i used a straight part of a spring and it seemed to do just fine, needles with not work. so now that you preloaded the tensioner move on to removing the crank shaft position sensor. 2 10mm bolts. it should slide out but pay attention to how the wire is routed, this is very important the timing will destroy the wires in seconds if they are in the way.so install your sensor and route your wires.

    here comes a reason to have a second person, have 2 17mm wrenchs and postion the belt over the cam gears, make sure your marks are lined up and youll have tension going both directions to hold this in place, now start routing the timing through the front past the idler and now line up the first cam gear with aluminum tab at 11 oclock i blieve, and make sure you crank is lined u with its alignment mark on the crak sensors wheel in the top left about 10 oclock. when in stalling the belt its important to check back make sure your pulling the belt through to take up all tension so it is aligned. now keep pressure on the cams, with the timing belt tensioner installed remove that little pin thats holding it and let it sit for a second as it takes up the tension, remove the 17mm wrenches and go ahead and bump the motor a couple rotations and use the wrench to find tdc again, if your timing is correct the tensioner is taking up slack then your good to go. now start installing everything backward. lower timing cover crank pulley water pump pulley, install the p/s bracket install the alt water pump belt then the a/c p/s belt. get the belts snug with the tensioner. dont forget to install the oil dip stick tube back to its lower bolt on the p/s bracket.

    go ahead and give the motor a test start and see if eveything is ok, then go ahead bolt everything else down.

    now assuming you recieved the p0335 error. random shut offs or doesnt start at all?

    good luck and ready yourself with about 6 hours.

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  • Expert
  • 155 Answers

For a v6 is on front cylinder head next to the radiator
if is a 4cyl you need to take the timing covers off and its near the crank sprocket

Posted on May 09, 2010

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  • Kia Master
  • 2,984 Answers

It is straight-forward and very simple to do:

Removal & Installation

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Disconnect the connector from the sensor.
  3. Remove the bolt that retains the sensor in place.
  4. Remove the sensor from its mounting.
To install:
  1. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
  2. Clearance between the sensor and the sensor wheel should be 0.020–0.059 inch.

Crankshaft Position Sensor On 2001–2005 vehicles the crankshaft sensor is mounted on the front of the transmission case adjacent to the flywheel.

Posted on May 09, 2010

  • chevytom55 Apr 24, 2011

    I will try this myself, and make sure I comment on the steps to say if this was or was not helpful.

  • Greg Bernett
    Greg Bernett Apr 24, 2011

    Sounds good...the only problem we have as experts on here is that almost 75% of the people posting their problems never post the size of engine they have and this is really important to us. There are several size engines in models of cars and we cannot and won't post the fix because it is so lengthy.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1071 Answers

SOURCE: How do I replace the timing belt and the crankshaft sensor ?

if you have never done one take it to a shop because if you have the timing off a little you take a chance of bending valves then you would need a new head

Posted on Jul 23, 2009

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: where is the crankshaft sensor

I just replaced the crankshaft sensor back in November. It is a bit of work to access, but you will find it on the inner crankshaft sprocket. This is under the lower timing belt cover. It is just a black sensor that partially covers the sprocket. You will need to remove the serpentine belts and outer crankshaft sprocket to access it. At the time I needed to change it, I also happened to be changing the timing belts as well so if you need those done soon, this would be a good time to get them done.

Posted on Feb 19, 2011

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