Question about Ford Cars & Trucks

Open Question

1995 F700 brake problem, with regard to the electric aux motor, is there a pressure switch. My motor will not come on now. I replaced the pump and leaking wheel cylinders on rear. Relay is working fine. I know a couple of weeks ago the motor had a problem of running with the key off. I disconnected the relay momentarily and it went off. Has not come back on since. How often do these motors go out?

Posted by on

Ad

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad
ginko
  • 19396 Answers

SOURCE: Blower Motor on 2000 Saturn SL

The blower motor is connected to a termic switch, when the motor is fine and fuse is ok, is the switch that must be replaced.

Ensure the fuse is ok first.

Posted on Oct 02, 2008

Ad
  • 833 Answers

SOURCE: 1995 Buick Regal- No Fuel pressure due to no power to relay

Best place to get that may be your public library.  Many have the Mitchell electrical manuals in stock.

Posted on Nov 23, 2008

ndguy2481
  • 251 Answers

SOURCE: 1989 Ford F350 2 wheel drive dually 460 ci gas motor

5 Inspect Brake Fluid Type Brake fluid loss or contamination grey_line.gif 10 Inspect Master Cylinder (Brake System) Worn or leaking brake master cylinder. grey_line.gif 11 Inspect Brake Power Booster Damaged booster vacuum line/check valve, or diaphram

Posted on Dec 01, 2008

SOURCE: Ford Bronco II spongy brake pedal

if the booster is bad the pedal would be hard sounds like the e-brake is stuck take off the drums and make sure the arms are all the way back then did you adjust the rear brakes after changing the shoes

Posted on Dec 14, 2008

  • 1118 Answers

SOURCE: 1995 Ford Explorer heater/ac not working -

that cliking you hear is most likely the heater relay. but i don't think thats it, i would be checking to see if there is a resister, for the blower motor, it should be someware around the blower motor along with the relay in the same place. it will be on the heater box held in with a couple of screws, and a plug going to it with 4 or 5 wires.when they go bad, blower may only work on one or two speeds or not at all.

Posted on Jan 15, 2009

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

2 Answers

1988 lincoln mark vii abs light stays on and hard breaks


The ABS unit has failed and needs to be replaced.

May 13, 2014 | 1988 Lincoln Mark VII

2 Answers

1988 lincoln mark vii abs light stays on and i have hard breaks


ABS sensor in the brake hubs are bad, get a brake job.

May 13, 2014 | 1988 Lincoln Mark VII

2 Answers

I have hard breaks on my 1988 lincoln mark vii and my abs light stays on any help


Bad vacuum brake booster test booster by shutting car off and don not touch pedal open hood and remove hose to booster a wooosh sound should be heard if not need a booster.

May 13, 2014 | 1988 Lincoln Mark VII

2 Answers

WHY ARE BRAKES SO HARD TO PRESS ON 90 LINCOLN MARK VII?


The power brakes vacuum booster... may have a vacuum leak. you can check it with an engine vacuum meter, or remove the rubber hose from the booster and plug it.. and see if the engine changes pase, idle smooths out, revs a bit higher, etc. noticeable change in engine idle would confirm a leak.

Oct 01, 2012 | 1990 Lincoln Mark VII

1 Answer

Hyraulic brake pump is bad i need a replacement


Are you sure the hydraulic motor is bad?....as it's usually a problem with a relay and/or the pressure switch.

LEARNING ABOUT THE "TEVES" BRAKE SYSTEM
The hydraulic brake booster on a late model Mark VII and early Continental is very different from most. It is equipped with something known as a "TEVES" brake system.
The main parts in the system that we will discuss include an ACCUMULATOR, a HYDRAULIC PUMP, a hydraulic pump RELAY, and a PRESSURE SWITCH. These are the key players in this operation.

THE LOCATION OF THESE PARTS ARE AS FOLLOWS:
HYDRAULIC PUMP MOTOR= Underneath the brake assembly (2 pin connector) Hydraulic pump motor
RELAY = On the drivers side strut tower
PRESSURE SWITCH = 5 pin connector facing the # 7 or 8 spark plug(drivers side)
ACCUMULATOR = Round black ball on the drivers side

WHAT THESE ITEMS DO:
HYDRAULIC PUMP MOTOR is an electric hydraulic pump used to "boost" pressure for the brake assembly. This pump is $900 new!
hydraulic pump motor RELAY is just what its sounds like. It gives the hydraulic pump motor power to come on.
PRESSURE SWITCH is the "brains" in the system. It senses how much pressure is "on line", and when the system needs more pressure, it tells the relay to "power up" the hydraulic pump motor.
Another one of its jobs is to turn on the RED BRAKE LIGHT, then the ANTI-LOCK lights to alert the driver that the pressure is dangerously low. (The reason the anti-lock light comes on, is because the ABS cannot function if there's a problem with the manual brakes)
ACCUMULATOR stores energy or pressure like a reservoir. Its there so the hydraulic pump motor only has to come on every 3rd or 5th time. Its design is more complicated, but basically the same principle as an air tank on a compressor.

WHAT NORMALLY HAPPENS:
What usually happens is, in time, the accumulator gets weak with age and can't hold the pressure like it was designed too, and therefore, the hydraulic motor comes on every time the brakes are applied....rather than every 3rd or 5th time. This means all these parts are working 3 or 5 times more than they were designed to. This puts an extreme amount of pressure on an already old system.
What we know from this is, the accumulator needs replacing because it's what started all this, but now the pressure switch and relay needs replacement also because it has worked overworked.
NOTE: always replace the relay when replacing the pressure switch. The relay came on every time the pressure switch told it too, so if one is worn out....the others not far behind!
hyraulic-brake-pump-bad-need-replacement-q5d1cnsm5fkb13bp03i0fxgj-5-0.gif

Sep 09, 2012 | 1990 Lincoln Mark VII

2 Answers

When antilock brake and brake lights are on and pedal is hard to push and stop.What is typical on a 1990 lincoln mark seven


LEARNING ABOUT THE "TEVES" BRAKE SYSTEM
The hydraulic brake booster on a late model Mark VII and early Continental, is very different from most. It is equipped with something known as a "TEVES" brake system. I'll attempt to teach you what does what and why, so you won't spend a ton of money just because you and maybe your mechanic aren't familiar how it works. The way it's always been is,..."if you don't understand it...replace the whole thing"! The problem with using this technique is, unless you want to spend $2K for the whole thing, your going to be buying a used system....which may not be a whole lot better than the one you have now.
The main parts in the system that we will discuss include an ACCUMULATOR, a HYDRAULIC PUMP, a hydraulic pump RELAY, and a PRESSURE SWITCH. These are the key players in this operation.

THE LOCATION OF THESE PARTS ARE AS FOLLOWS:
HYDRAULIC PUMP MOTOR= Underneath the brake assembly (2 pin connector) Hydraulic pump motor
RELAY = On the drivers side strut tower
PRESSURE SWITCH = 5 pin connector facing the # 7 or 8 spark plug(drivers side)
ACCUMULATOR = Round black ball on the drivers side

WHAT THESE ITEMS DO:
HYDRAULIC PUMP MOTOR is an electric hydraulic pump used to "boost" pressure for the brake assembly. This pump is $900 new!
hydraulic pump motor RELAY is just what its sounds like. It gives the hydraulic pump motor power to come on.
PRESSURE SWITCH is the "brains" in the system. It senses how much pressure is "on line", and when the system needs more pressure, it tells the relay to "power up" the hydraulic pump motor.
Another one of its jobs is to turn on the RED BRAKE LIGHT, then the ANTI-LOCK lights to alert the driver that the pressure is dangerously low. (The reason the anti-lock light comes on, is because the ABS cannot fuction if theres a problem with the manual brakes)
ACCUMULATOR stores energy or pressure like a reservoir. Its there so the hydraulic pump motor only has to come on every 3rd or 5th time. Its design is more complicated, but basicaly the same principle as an air tank on a compressor.

WHAT NORMALLY HAPPENS:
What usually happens is, in time, the accumulator gets weak with age and can't hold the pressure like it was designed too, and therefore, the hydraulic motor comes on every time the brakes are applied....rather than every 3rd or 5th time. This means all these parts are working 3 or 5 times more than they were designed to. This puts an extreme amount of pressure on an already old system.
What we know from this is, the accumulator needs replacing because it's what started all this, but now the pressure switch and relay needs replacement also because it has worked overworked.
NOTE: always replace the relay when replacing the pressure switch. The relay came on every time the pressure switch told it too, so if one is worn out....the others not far behind!
when-antilock-brake-brake-lights-q5d1cnsm5fkb13bp03i0fxgj-5-0.gif

Jun 08, 2011 | 1990 Lincoln Mark VII

1 Answer

Car will not start most of time. When it will not start, there is no electrical current at the electric fuel pump. If it does start, car will run (and drive for awhile)... then the engine oil pressure will...


The oil pressure switch is connected with the fuel pump, it's desinged so if you loose oil pressure it will stop the motor before major damage occours. Try replacing it,

Jan 06, 2011 | 1995 Buick Park Avenue

2 Answers

1995 BMW 525I over heating issue. I repaired head


Hi, Sounds like you have tried about everything. Ok the aux. coolant switch is for the electric pump for the heater core will not cause an over heating condition just a longer warm up of the heater core. Has the cooling system been bleed properly if there is a trapped air pocket it will not let coolant circulate. Was the new thermostat installed correctly? They have a vent that needs to be towards the top or they trap air on the back side and cant take an accurate reading to open and close. Other areas to look at would be proper operation of the fan clutch, if they fail they can cause the fan to not lock up properly and supply enough air movement through the radiator. The aux. electric fans and their temp switches do you hear them coming on are they coming on at the right temp.

Aug 26, 2010 | 1995 BMW 5 Series

2 Answers

1980 ford f700 electric brake pump operates when pedal is depressed while vehicle is running and driving


check you aux hydurlic pump, ford will have one pump for the powersteering and one on the right hand side for the brake

Jul 15, 2008 | 2007 Ford F-450 Lariat

Not finding what you are looking for?
Cars & Trucks Logo

Related Topics:

217 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Ford Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

76051 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22156 Answers

fordexpert

Level 3 Expert

5516 Answers

Are you a Ford Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...