How do I disconnect the alarm and central locking system on my 1991 500SL. I took out the #6 fuse inthe trunk and the power antenna will not work.

FUSE PANEL LOCATION
The fuse panel is located in the engine compartment. A label on the inside of the cover lists the fuse amperage and circuits protected.
volvo 850 fuses fuse panel layout service repair manual
FUSE PANEL IDENTIFICATION
Fig. 1: Fuse Panel Identification
Courtesy of Volvo Cars of North America.
WARNING: Always disconnect battery ground cable before servicing "high-current fuses. It is recommended that "high-current" fuses be replaced by a qualified technician.
* 1 - 15 Amp
Fuel Injection, Distributor Ignition, Automatic Gearbox
* 2 - 15 Amp
Fuel Pump, Alarm System
* 3 - 10 Amp
Courtesy Lights, Oil Level Sensor
* 4 - Not Used (1993-95)
* 4 - 10 Amp (1996)
Electronic Start Inhibitor (Immobilizer)
* 5 - 30 Amp
ECC Blower (Speed 4)
* 6 - 25 Amp
Central Locking System, Alarm
* 7 - 15 Amp
Audio System (Amplifier)
* 8 - 25 Amp (1993-95)
Power Antenna, Trailer Connector
* 8 - 40 Amp (1996)
Electronic Start Inhibitor (Immobilizer)
* 9 - 30 Amp
ABS, Traction Control System
* 10 - Not Used (1993-95)
* 10 - 15 Amp (1996)
Heated Rear Seat (If Equipped)
* 11 - 30 Amp
Heated Rear Window & Side Mirrors
* 12 - 10 Amp
Brake Lights
* 13 - 15 Amp
Hazard Flashers, Headlight Flashers, Alarm
* 14 - 30 Amp
ABS, Traction Control System
* 15 - 10 Amp (1993-95)
Audio System, Courtesy Lights, Door Open Light, Trunk Light, Glove Box Light, Remote Control Central Locking System,
Oil Level Sensor, Seat Belt Reminder
* 15 - 10 Amp (1996)
Audio System, Courtesy Lights, Door Open Light, Trunk Light, Glove Box Light, Remote Control Central Locking System,
Oil Level Sensor, Seat Belt Reminder, Data Link Connector
* 16 - 30 Amp (1993-95) Accessories
* 16 - 30 Amp (1996)
Power Antenna, Trailer Connector, Accessories
* 17 - 10 Amp
Key Reminder
* 18 - 25 Amp (1993-95)
Heated Front Seats, Power Mirrors
* 18 - 15 Amp (1996) Front Fog Lamps
* 19 - 15 Amp
Left High Beam Headlight
* 20 - 15 Amp
Right High Beam Headlight, High Beam Indicator
* 21 - 15 Amp
Left Low Beam Headlight
* 22 - 15 Amp
Right Low Beam Headlight
* 23 - 10 Amp
Left Parking Light, License Light
* 24 - 10 Amp
Right Parking Light, Bulb Failure Warning Sensor
* 25 - 10 Amp
Rear Fog Lamps, Fog Lamp Indicator
* 26 - Not Used (1993-95)
* 26 - 25 Amp (1996)
Heated Front Seats, Power Mirrors
* 27 - 15 Amp
Back-Up Lights, Turn Signals
* 28 - 10 Amp
Cruise Control, Heated Rear Window, Seat Belt Reminder Light, Shiftlock, Bulb Failure Warning Sensor, Heated Rear Seat
* 29 - 15 Amp
ABS, Traction Control System
* 30 - 10 Amp
Cigarette Lighter
* 31 - 25 Amp
ECC, ECC Blower (Speeds 1-3)
* 32 - 10 Amp
Audio System, Remote Controlled Central Locking System
* 33 - 15 Amp (1993-95)
Power Seats, OBD Test Socket, Tailgate Washer/Wipe (Wagon)
* 33 - 15 Amp (1996)
Power Seats, Tailgate Washer/Wipe (Wagon)
* 34 - 25 Amp
Windshield Wiper/Washer, Horn, Headlight Washer/Wiper
* 35 - 10 Amp
Instrument Lights, Sun Roof, Traction Control System
* 36 - Not Used
* 37 - Circuit Breaker
Power Windows, Power Sun Roof
* 38 - Not Used
* 39 - Circuit Breaker
Drivers Power Seat
* 40 - Circuit Breaker
Passengers Power Seat
RELAY PANEL LOCATION
The relay panel is located at the left corner of the instrument panel.
i copied this off a volvo site Hope this helps

how can i find central locking in mazda premacy tell me plsss

hi, if any doors, boot or bonnet is open it will not lock. there are SWITCHES that has to be set.for the system to recognize it is closed. please check all openings even windows. ONLY DO THIS IF.if the BATTERY HAS BEEN TAKEN OFF OR BATTERY HAS BEEN DISCONNECTED. the SYSTEM MAY NEED RESETTING. the battery NEGATIVE lead needs to be taken OFF and place the NEGATIVE LEAD ON THE TERMINAL (A NOISE WILL BE HEARD), the ALARM and CENTRAL LOCKING SHOULD BE RESET, if the ALARM DO'NT SOUND put the lead ON and OFF a FEW TIMES. CLAMP THE BATTERY LEAD CONNECTION TIGHT and press the ALARM BUTTON OFF and retry locking SYSTEM. this will work if everything is O. K. gerry

if it is a factory alarm system fitted, pulling a fuse will do nothing(the thieves would have it away in no time....)and as there are so many aftermarket alarms available any good system would not be so easy to disarm,try something else.(how do we know you are the owner.......)

Sounds like you may have a bad ground clean battery terminals!! get wiring schematic!!!! Good Luck!!!!

well, with my experience with fuse problems i found that the interior lights, alarm and even cruise control are all on the same fuse and MAYBE the power antenna. however, a short in the fuse for those should have absolutely no effect on the car itself driving. so u either have 2 problems, fuse and engine. or something bigger.

Try disconnecting the positive from the alarm. Sometimes its connected straight to the battery. If its not connected to the battery look underneath the dash drivers side. Find the alarm brain, the power cable (RED) should have a fuse on it. Take the fuse off, disconnect the negative from the battery wait five minutes. Then connect everything, if you took off the right fuse the alarm should restart. If its still doing it the alarm is not the problem. If you have a trunk switch to the alarm, you can simply disconnect it. These switches are optional and often get corroded or defective almost always causing the problem described. After disconnecting the negative from the battery you might notice your car's driveability different. This is because the car's computer also gets restarted. Don't mess with anything in the car the computer will set on its own. Let me know if you still have a problem after this.

Hi!

Since you've got a '96 I assume your #15 fuse is 10 amps and for the following components:

Audio System, Courtesy Lights, Door Open Light, Trunk Light, Glove Box Light, Remote Control Central Locking System, Oil Level Sensor, Seat Belt Reminder, Data Link Connector.

Turn ignition to OFF, turn off all interior lighting (by operating the selector inside the car), close all doors, wait about 20 seconds and insert a new fuse. If the fuse is blown immediately upon insertion my guess would be that you have an aftermarket audio system with faulty wiring or maybe something is wrong with you Data Link Connector. If that is not the case the problem might prove a little bit harder to find, and you'll definitely need a wiring diagram. Check this site:
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/volvo_workshop-850techdocs.shtml

If the fuse is not blown immediately upon insertion: Good, the components affiliated with the fuse can then be grouped by what ignition position they are active at (OFF, 1, 2) and tested individually.

POSITION OFF:
- Door open light, courtesy lights, glove box light, trunk light, remote central locking system.
Make sure the glove box light really is turned off when closing the glove box.
After that it's simply a matter of testing these components one after the other (with the ignition at position OFF) by opening/closing doors, turning on/off trunk light etc, checking the fuse between each component test.
Make sure that the interior lighting is turned off when you test the central locking, or else you might end up faulttracing central locking when the problem was with the interior lighting :)
(Since the interior lights can be set to turn on when the central locking is operated).

POSITION 1:
- Usually the audio system, unless it's an aftermarket system.
If the fuse breaks the second you turn the ignition to position 1 the audio system probably has faulty wiring.

POSITION 2:
If the fuse breaks the second you turn the ignition to position 2 one of these two components is the culprit:
- Seat belt reminder, oil level sensor.
Fasten all seat belts and try again with a new fuse.
If the fuse still breaks the oil level sensor is most likely the culprit.
If the fuse didn't break the seat belt reminder is the culprit. If so you can simply disconnect the seat belt reminder relay, ridding you of both your fuse problem and the annoying seat belt reminder. The relay is located behind the cover over the drivers feet (easily removed, just a couple of torx screws, no breakable interior clips).

The central locking relay and the alarm module are also found there, as well as some other electrical components.

The Data Link Connector is an unlikely culprit, but it's probably best if you unplugged it completely during testing.
If everything turns out ok with it disconnected you can test it at the end. (The Data Link Connector is the OBD II conncetor located by the coin holder, in front of the gearchange).

Good luck!

When the armed Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS) senses that the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, it enters its power-up mode. In the power-up mode the alarm system remains armed following a battery failure or disconnect. If the VTSS was armed prior to a battery disconnect or failure, the system will have to be actively or passively disarmed after the battery is reconnected. The alarm can be disarmed by locking the vehicle and turning the drivers door lock to the lock (arm) position. Wait a few minutes then unlock (disarm) the drivers door and the vehicle should start.
If the VTSS has been disabled in the high-line Central Timer Module (CTM), the VTSS feature must be re-enabled using the Chrysler DRB scan tool. The clicking you heard was probably from the CTM located behind the glove box.

Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Try to check wires to the driverside central lock master motor. alarm installer probaly cut wires inorder to link the alarm to your cars central locking system.

Central lock master motor usually comes with 5 wires, two is the motor supply wire capable of reversing its polarity depending on lock or unlock request, the remaining 3 is just a swtich. One is ground and the two are negative request swtich for lock and unlock. If all fuses were good this moght be the problem, try also to check the outside fuses- in the hood. Good luck!