Question about Nissan Stanza

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Hi Nick, you responded to my earlier post. It isn't the ignition switch. I corrected some things in my original post and added to it, it is all copied here. I have a 1992 Nissan Sentra, auto transmission, that won?t start. It has the KA24E engine. I have had the car about 6 years. When you turn the key, I hear the fuel pump solenoid click but that is all that happens The battery is at 12.56 volts and drops to about 12.4 when you turn the ignition. It did this about 6 days ago, then a couple of days later it started up after I turned the wheels to straighten them out. A couple of times in the last 3 years or so it has done this but running the shift lever up and down the gears a couple of times got it to start. This time, the gear shift didn't want to move at all until I pushed the small release lever at the bottom of it. According to the manual, you shouldn't need to use this release unless the battery is low and you are trying to move the lever. It is a bear to get the key out after trying to start it too. With this car, we have always had to turn the engine to get the button to go in to release the key and lock the steering wheel. In other words, if you turned the car off and put the key back in to roll up the windows, the key would not come back out unless you turned the engine over even the slightest amount. I don't know if this is related or not. You are supposed to be able to start it in neutral with the brake pedal depressed, that doesn't work either. We towed it home and when we got up to 35mph, dropped it into low gear to see if the engine would engage and start. It acted like the transmission was still in neutral. I don't know if you can tow and pop start these like you could the older automatics or not. These cars do have a switch tied to the shifter that won?t allow starting if not in park or neutral. There is some history of problems with those. I have not been able to find the switch to see if I could test that. It is not the ignition switch. I replaced it with a new one and no help. I tried another computer module in it, no help. It was a used module but I wouldn?t think it would have the exact same problem. To see if I could even get the engine to turn over, I ran a wire from the battery positive to the solenoid on the starter. It does nothing even with the ignition switch in start or run. I do have 12V to the main starter cable on the starter. I don't know if these will turn over the engine when you jumper the solenoid this way or not, the older cars used to. I figured that if it turned over at least I would know that the starter and solenoid was ok and the problem was in the wiring to them. Since nothing happened other than a few sparks when I connected the wire, I am left with a starter or solenoid problem if these will even work this way. Most likely the solenoid since it didn't even click. I also tried thumping the solenoid with a metal rod to free it up. That works on my pickup whenever that solenoid sticks. I figured that jumpering the solenoid would bypass even the transmission switch, and let me know that at least that portion of the system was working, maybe not. I looked the starter over to see how to remove it and have it tested. All the Chilton manual says is to remove the wires and 6 starter bolts. I can only find 1 bolt. I guess I have 5 questions. 1. Should this model start by dropping into gear when towing at more than 35 mph? 2. Is there another cutoff somewhere in this model that would prevent jumpering the solenoid from making the engine turn over? 3. Is this a case of having to remove the engine from the car to get the starter off? 4. Is there a way to test the transmission switch once I find it? 5. Any other ideas of things I can check or try?

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  • chuchpuch May 27, 2010

    Sorry but it was the starter. A friend rapped it a couple of times with a hammer and the car started immediately. I have ran it several days now with now problems.


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Your PArk neutral switch need replacing... YES I AM 100% certin...

Posted on May 09, 2010

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