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Having a hard time getting to the rear starter bolt on my f-250 1992 7.5 gas engine. Any tricks or tips would be greatly appreciated

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A long extenion wobble socket and electrical tape the bolt to socket start by hand then tighten only wrap the bolt one time so the tape will break loose

Posted on May 08, 2010

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Where do i find the starter on a 1991 Cadillac fleetwood 2 dooir coupe with a 4.9 liter engine front wheel drive


Hello: The starter is towards the drivers side on the bottom of the the engine in front. There is a black plastic shield that covers the rear portion of the starter. Under the plastic cover is 2 15mm bolt heads. On the front of the starter is a bracket, it is held to the starter with a 10mm nut and to the engine block with a 13mm bolt. the large cable attached to the starter solenoid is a 15mm and the smaller wire is a 8mm. Disconnect the negative battery cable before attempting this job. Its sort of a trick to get the starter out once all the bolts and wires are disconnected. Make sure you completely remove the bracket from the front of the starter before attempting to remove the starter from the engine.

Jun 30, 2011 | 1991 Cadillac Fleetwood

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Engine cranks and is getting spark but wont start it kicked back hard enough to break a starter mounting bolt i replaced the crank sensor and starter maount bolt it cranks but still kicks back and will not...


The timing is out . you can check this by getting #1 to TDC, pull the cap off and see where the rotor is pointing. It should be pointing to the # 1 cylinder. Gas engine

Feb 08, 2011 | 1998 Chevrolet K2500

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How to replace a oil pump on a 2005 nissan xterra


Working on 3.3Liter V6 Nissan Xterra, -Ok Take Neg Cable Off Battery,- Set motor to TDC Compression #1 #1 is front right Cylinder, -Remove Timing Belt, -Remove your timing belt tensior pulley, -Ok The Crankshaft Timing Sprocket take and remove outer spacer ring now take spray wd40 ect..behind gear try to get wd40 work between crank and gear i take hammer and gently knock the great back into the pump then i take crow feet and work the gear forward between the oil pump and the rear spacer ring then spray with wd40 and repeat process now if the lip of the spacer rings bends forward take straighten with vice and hammer, -Now time to drain Motor Oil,- Now Go to your right front Frame and remove 3 19mm head nuts off 19mm bolts from Idler Arm, push tires together Toe In, Watch your center link drop now you can began to remove your oil pan,Remove Starter, Remove the left bracket 14mm bolts and the right starter spacer Take Note: 14mm bolt just above the lowest starter bolt remove starter shim spacer, the 10mm bolts rear of oil pan 1/4 extiension and 1/4 10mm scoket -,The Motor mount 14mm nuts will have to be removed from the right mount almost all the way off your left drivers side mount, lift motor gently off right mount about 1 inch off the mount. Ok Remove Oil Pan From The Motor, Take Note 2 12mm head bolts right / left side of oil pump longest goes into alternator bracket, 4 10mm bolts 1 is hidden Lower right side Pump front now your oil pump will be loose to remove off pull forward to front of truck....I find that pouring Lucas engine oil stabalizer into the pump where oil filter mounts and turn pump until prime and take lithium grease and rub inside of front main crank seal..before installing new pump..!!! Take Note: if the crank sprocket gear is Stubborn I have seen Map Gas and i have seen holes drilled into front of gear, then Tapped and 2 bolt puller to remove the Sprocket but keep in mind your going to replace the pump so you can use a little force to get it to move just keep soaking with penatrating oil get it working back and forth....Hope this helps Oh yes Take Note: The converter Bolt Cover Will come out but the Engine - Transmission Spacer plate Will Stay in Place.I have seen tech take cutoff wheel and cut the engine Transmission Spacer Plate Where Starter Sits In And The left Side And Place it back into place where the bellhousing bolts hold it back in place but you should not have to do this..just thought it intersting...Dyi Nissan Xterra 3.3liter V6 Oil Pump R&R......

Jan 30, 2011 | 2005 Nissan Xterra

4 Answers

My starter gave out yesterday. I didnt know it was inside the intake manifold. Either way i started the job last night, i am having a hard time pulling out the manifold. I already loosened the clamp but i...


Hi!!
These are the steps to follow to remove the Starter Motor and the Intake Manifold. If you follow them you'll have no problems when the job is done. Pay special attention to the pre-installation steps for the Intake Manifold.

To Replace the Starter, Remove or disconnect the following:
  1. Negative battery cable
  2. Intake manifold
  3. Starter electrical connectors
  4. Starter motor
View of starter motor removal and wires
1kbron_11.jpg

To install, Install or connect the following:
  1. -S- terminal wire. Torque the nut to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
  2. Starter electrical connectors. Torque the nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  3. Starter motor
  4. Mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
  5. Intake manifold
  6. Negative battery cable

INTAKE MANIFOLD
PRIOR TO REMOVAL:
  • Relieve the fuel system pressure
  • Drain the cooling system.

Remove or disconnect the following:
  1. Negative battery cable
  2. Intake manifold heat shield
  3. Sight shield
  4. Coil module connectors from the coil modules located on the valve covers
  5. Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose and valve from the valve cover
  6. Fuel regulator vacuum tube
  7. Vacuum tubes from the AIR solenoid
  8. Fuel inlet and return lines
  9. Fuel rail bracket retaining nut at the rear lift bracket
  10. 2 pushnuts attaching the engine coolant heater wire and set it aside, if equipped
  11. Fuel injector electrical connections
  12. Fuel rail and injectors
  13. Plenum duct clamp at the rear of the intake manifold, loosen Intake manifold bolts and the manifold
  14. Clean the manifold mating surfaces.
Intake manifold torque sequence- 4.6L engines

1kbron_12.jpg


PRIOR TO INSTALL:
  • Grease the inside edge of the rubber plenum duct.
  • Position the intake manifold by performing the following sub-steps:
  • Place the rear of the intake manifold into the plenum duct.
  • Place the front of the intake manifold downward on to the cylinder heads.
  • Install the intake manifold bolts and torque to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) in the sequence illustrated. DO NOT torque the intake manifold bolts when the engine is HOT or at operating temperature.
  • Make sure the plenum duct is fully attached to the rear of the intake manifold and tighten the plenum duct clamp to 20 inch lbs. (2.25 Nm).

Install or connect the following:
  1. Fuel rail and injectors and tighten the rail retainers to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
  2. Fuel injector electrical connections
  3. Alternator coolant pipe/surge tank pipe and position onto the fuel rail studs
  4. Engine coolant heater wire onto the studs and install the pushnuts, if equipped
  5. Fuel rail bracket retaining nut at the rear lift bracket and tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
  6. Fuel inlet and return lines
  7. Vacuum tubes to the AIR solenoid
  8. Fuel regulator vacuum tube
  9. Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve and hose to the valve cover
  10. Coil module connectors to the coil modules located on the valve covers
  11. Sight shield
  12. Intake manifold heat shield
  13. Negative battery cable
  14. Fill and bleed the cooling system.
Good Luck!! A HELPFUL - 4 THUMBS - rating for this solution would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for using FixYa.

Nov 11, 2010 | 2001 Cadillac DeVille

1 Answer

Having tough time removing starter from1993 ford crown victoria will someone school me?


The procedure to replace starter on ford crown Victoria is as follows:-- 1) First disconnect the negative battery cable. 2) Then raise the car up, get under it and look by the oil pan. 3) The starer should be at the back of the engine on the bottom. 4) It is by the tranny, un-bolt Starter from the engine, pull it out toward the rear of the car to get the nosecone out of the housing, as you are unbolting it keep it supported while you un-bolt the wires from the solenoid, 5) The starter is removed. Removing the engine is not necessary.But if engine is removed then it makes it more easy,but removing engine is not very easy. Its only three bolts, and if you are doing it by yourself, you should use a mirror and jack the car with jack stands so you can see and move around. Its hard but you won't have to drop the engine. for more help.please click on this link directly. the link has few diagrams and instruction to make the procedure bit simple. http://www.p71interceptor.com/starter/removereinstall/ Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Jul 29, 2010 | 1993 Ford Crown Victoria

2 Answers

It's very hard to get to the top transmission/engine bolts. Should you pull the transmission with the engine or is there an easier solution? The manifold could come off and I could get to the bolt easier...


The trick is very long extensions so you can reach from tail of the transmission to the front. If you have the means pick up at least a 2' ext(3/8' drive) and a wobble socket in that particular size. This makes it a ton easier.

Mar 31, 2010 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

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Hello Friend, I have a Dodge Caravan 1997 and in the process of changing out my water pump and timing belt. I am in the stage where I need to open the damper harmonic bolt. Which direction does this bolt...


I have managed to open the harmonic damper bolt. This bolt opens in the counter clockwise rotation. A breaker bar was used with the flywheel locked in place. In order to get to the flywheel, the starter motor was removed to get access. The manual suggest removing the bell housing plate. This takes more effort and one of side engine mount also need removal. I decided to remove the starter motor instead. In order to remove the starter motor, first remove the cables from the starter motor and three mounting bolts. Secure a rod or a screw driver between the flywheel and bell housing through a hole in the flywheel. The size of the size is about 1/2". This hole was visible when the engine is set to TDC (top dead center). There could be more than one hole but I did not try to rotate the engine to find out. Once the rod or the screw driver in place in the flywheel, use the 22mm socket head and breaker bar and undo the harmonic damper bolt counter clockwise (CCW). I believe an impact air gun could do this job as well. The spec on the bolt is 100 ft lbs torque - Hendry

Jan 13, 2009 | 1993 Dodge Caravan

2 Answers

Changing the starter on my 99 tahoe


Starter Escalade, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Denali, Denali XL, Yukon XL, 1999 – 2005 REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
Removal & Installation
4.8L, 5.3L And 6.0L Engines
CAUTION Before servicing any electrical component, the ignition key must be in the OFF or LOCK position and all electrical loads must be OFF, unless instructed otherwise in these procedures.
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Protective shields, as necessary
    • Starter solenoid shield
    • Starter-to-transmission close out cover bolt
    • Engine oil level sensor connection
    • On 4WD, front axle mounting bracket through bolt nut
  4. Reposition the front axle mounting bracket through bolt until the bolt tip is flush with the support bushing. Do not remove the bolt.
    • Mounting bolts from the engine block. Slide the starter forward until the starter clears the transmission.
    • Starter transmission close out cover
    • Positive battery cable and wiring harness from the starter
    • Starter from the vehicle 0900c152800a6916.jpgStarter removal—4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L engines
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Starter
    • Positive battery cable to the starter. Tighten the nut to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
    • Starter transmission close out cover
    • Mounting bolts to the engine block and tighten to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
  2. Reposition the front axle mounting bracket through bolt until the bolt is fully seated.
    • Front axle mounting bracket through bolt nut and tighten to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm)
    • Engine oil level sensor connection
    • Starter-to-transmission close out cover bolt
    • Starter solenoid shield
    • Protective shields as necessary
  3. Remove the safety stands.
  4. Lower the vehicle.
  5. Connect the negative battery cable.
5.7L And 7.4L Engines
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Mounting bolts and shims
    • Wires
    • Heat shield
    • Starter
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Starter
    • Wires. Torque battery wire nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm), and ignition nut to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
    • Heat shield. Torque the bolts to 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm) and the nuts to 35 inch lbs. (3 Nm).
    • Mounting bolts and shim. Torque the bolts to 33 ft lbs. (45 Nm).
    • Negative battery cable
6.5L Engine
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cables
    • Mounting bolts/nuts and shim, if used
    • Starter
    • Wires
    • Heat shield and bracket 0900c152800a6917.jpgExploded view of the starter motor—6.5L engine
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Heat shield and bracket. Torque the bolts to 13 ft lbs. (17 Nm).
    • Wires. Torque battery wire nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm), and ignition nut to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
    • Starter
    • Mounting bolts/nuts and shim, if used. Torque the bolts to 33 ft lbs. (45 Nm) and the nut to 75 inch lbs. (8.5 Nm).
    • Negative battery cables
8.1L Engine
  1. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • On 4WD, front axle mounting bracket through bolt nut
  2. Reposition the front axle mounting bracket through bolt until the bolt tip is flush with the support bushing. Do not remove the bolt.
    • Positive battery cable nut
    • Positive cable from the solenoid
    • Engine harness ground nut and ground from the solenoid
    • Mounting bolts and starter
    • Heat shield bolts, nut and shield, if necessary
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Heat shield, bolts and nut if removed. Tighten the bolts to 35 inch lbs. (3 Nm) and the nut to 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
    • Starter and bolts. Tighten to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
    • Ground wire and nut. Tighten to 30 inch lbs. (3.4 Nm).
    • Positive cable and nut. Tighten to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
  2. Reposition the front axle mounting bracket through bolt until the bolt is fully seated.
    • Front axle mounting bracket through bolt nut and tighten to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm)
    • Negative battery cable

Sep 28, 2008 | 1999 Chevrolet Tahoe

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