Question about 1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera

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Engine cranks but wont start when hot,spark ok, injector pulsat ok, fuel pressure 35 to 45 pounds,crank sensor and inginton module was replaced. What can be the problem ? Also replaced mass air flow sensor and idle control motor

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I would check the camshaft sensor.

Posted on May 08, 2010

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If you have spark, pulse, and fuel it almost has to be fuel injectors.

Posted on Oct 15, 2012

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97 oldsmobile achieva wont fire changed coil pack spark plugs cam sensor still wont start


Make sure battery has a full charge and battery connections all good.
If it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it while you visually check for spark at the spark plugs. If spark everywhere, use a gage and check proper fuel pressure and fuel injector pulse.
If you having a problem with more than one system, I want to check for rpm signal, that usually comes from the crank sensor. Not sure why you replaced cam sensor? I always want to check sensor wiring circuits before replacing anything. Don't replace anything unless your testing points in that direction.

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Change the fuel pump and still won't start on a 2002 chevy avalanche


Check for spark to the spark plugs, while cranking the engine. If no spark, you could have a bad ignition module, or a bad crankshaft position sensor. The crank sensor sends a signal to the computer, to start the fuel pump and signals the ignition module to start firing the spark plugs. It also drives the tachometer through the computer (PCM) Powertrain control module. The ignition module can be removed and taken to a parts store to have it tested. The crank position sensor is not as easy to test. Easier to just replace it. Good Luck. But wait, I have seen people replace the fuel pump, checked the fuel pump harness for power, and all was good. However, if the fuel pump does not have a GROUND, it will still not operate. Might want to check that. Have fun.

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Engine cranks but wont start


1st thing is check to make sure you are getting spark to your spark plugs. If no spark then it is either your coil pack or engine control module. If you have spark, check your fuel pressure at your fuel rail. If you do not have good pressure than it is probably your fuel pump.

Apr 07, 2014 | 1999 Ford Explorer

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1991 chevy lumina will crank but wont start I checked the fuel pressure it squirts out good and the fuel pump sounds strong I checked spark on the coil its sparking good! I charged the battery its fully...


If you have spark at all the plugs, the crank sensor should be ok. You should use a gage to check fuel pressure? I don't know engine size? For the 3.1L engine, my info says 40--46 psi.
It is possible to have spark at the plugs, but, the computer doesn't see rpm signal. If that is the case, no fuel injector pulse. The purple wire with white tracer carries rpm signal from ignition module to pcm, that wire has dc pulse, engine cranking. If nothing there, have to check ignition module.
How long since a tune-up? Any applicable trouble codes?

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1991 Olds Cutlass Ciera 3.3 v6 would start, run a few minutes fine, while cold. When warmed up it would shut off, stall, not restart. It would crank over good, but not restart. Added fuel to...


jrtvett's "unplug one injector and start" troubleshooting procedure would work if one injector is bad. If more than one injector is bad, then not so sure.
Like you mentioned, one or more injector(s) can go bad and it causes the others to stop working as well. After our experience, I am convinced this observation (fault mode) is correct (see below). Its as if upon warmup the solenoid in the faulty injector shorts, resulting in short circuit of signals to all the other injectors.
We have a 1989 Olds Cutlass Ciera with the 2.8L V6 that recently had the same fault: At least one injector went bad after warmup, then engine refused to restart. All other possibilities were eliminated, including crank shaft sensor, ECM, ignition pack, idle start valve, bad gas, rail pressure, etc.
No Service Engine light illuminated, and there were no fault codes in the ECM computer.
The jrtvett procedure could not easily be utilized in our case because all the injector connectors are underneath the intake manifold and inaccessible.
My cousin is a Ford mechanic told me of an analysis procedure Ford uses to troubleshoot injector problems. They display rail pressure on a LCD or CRT monitor and can see pressure drop with each injector's opening. Unfortunately, if the car is not starting, then this test will not be of much use. The engine has to be idling or at least all of the solenoids in all of the injectors operational to use this test. If engine won't start, then its clear none of the injectors are opening as described above, then no fluctuations in rail pressure would be displayed.
The shop that was working on our car decided to replaced all of the injectors, and the engine now runs like new.
Due to inaccessibility of injectors and fact these injectors were inexpensive ($40-$50 each), it was wise just to replace all six. Grading old injectors is not exact science.

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1 Answer

3.1 runs fine then wont start if i turn it off at operating temp. Here's the thing though. in the no start situation it has fuel pressure on the fuel rail and fire at the plugs.THe computer has been...


HI, ok lets address each issue as your asked 1. Timing belt: since this engine uses a timing chain and it runs fine for the most part its unlikely to be the cause. 2. Ignition module: well the module not only sends the signal for spark timing but it also uses another signal for the fuel injectors. Since these ignition modules are very sensitive to heat the module may fail only when it is hot. So yes it could be the ignition module. 3. A fuel problem: Because you have fuel that sprays a foot high does not mean it has proper pressure. think of it as a garden hose the water flows out the end of the hose normally but when you place your thumb over the hose it squirts harder. You are trying to release the fuel from a much larger fuel rail threw a small shrader valve. Electric fuel pumps are little motors turning at very high rpms. when they get hot after use they draw more amperage and produce less volume and pressure. So yes fuel could be the issue. 3. Injectors clogged: Your right unlikely but you may want to do a resistance check of the injectors while cold then one while hot. You may find even one shorting out after it gets hot and this will shut down the whole bank of them. 4. Crank sensor: the crank sensor sends a pulse to the DIS module the ECM then controls the demand for fuel and timing. These crank sensors are prone to cracking and letting oil wick into the sensor apply heat and it can raise the resistance and make the sensor fail till it cools. So yes the crank sensor can cause this type of no start. 5. Cam sensor: no this model 3.1 did not use a cam sensor. 6. Intake gaskets: this would have to be one very large leak when hot. you could try pouring oil over the intake gasket area while cranking and see if it fires over. The oil is should be heavy and thick enough to seal it for a short time or show where it sucks it in. a few things you over looked are the importance that the temp sensor and TPS sensor play during a hot start. If the ECM thinks that the engine is cold it uses injector pulse like a choke on a carburetor. Good luck on your adventure I hope this has helped.

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1 Answer

Engine cranks. sparks but does not start. fuel pressure ok


Have you replaced the crank sensor? The crank sensor on top of the trans. bell housing does control the injector pulse through the ECM.
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