When the clutch peddle is depressed it doesn't come back up

Could be bad Slave Cylinder if it is hydraulic System
If Mechanical: Linkage could have come off-trace from peddle down to transmission. Inspect clutch arm to see if it is moving when depressing peddle.
Check hydraulic fluid level in juice system, top off, bleed system if possible. Determine if Master Cylinder is bad, Rebuild or replace if bad- Rebuild or replace Slave Cylinder if bad.
Could have a bad line or pipe as you call it. Check for leaks after topping off.

change the clutch cable its more than likely broken if you get someone to depress the the clutch peddle and watch at the engine end see if it moves

CHECK WHETHER YOU HAVE A PROBLEM ON THE PEDAL SPRING RETAINER,OR WORN ON BRACKET MOUNTING.

You could have air in the clutch cylinder or there could be wear in your clutch master cylinder, You need to start by checking the fluid the the reservoir and then try bleeding the clutch, if this doesn't help then you will need a repalkcement master cylinder, It is recommended that you replace the slave cylinder at the same time as well as the flexible rubber hose.

Sounds like you have a leak in your clutch master or slave cylinder. I had the same problem. They are not too expensive at kragen or auto zone. The master cylinder is located on the right side of your engine closest to the driver. Open the cap and check if theres fluid. If its low or empty then there might be a leak. The slave cylinder is located on the passenger side under the car bolted to the transmission. That could be leaking or not working properly. I would replace both if you can. Hope this helps.

Just follow the procedure in the right order. Fill the clutch reservoir on the master cylinder to the max and leave the lid loose. Fit a transparent plastic pipe on the bleed nipple on the clutch slave cylinder bleed nipple. Put the other end of the pipe into a jar to catch the waste fluid. Put some thick grease around the base threads of the bleed nipple, this stops air being sucked in via the threads whne the nipple is slackened off. Loosen the bleed nipple by 1/3 of a turn. Have your mate slowly depress the clutch peddle. When he has reached maximum travel have him hold it there while you turn the bleed nipple a third turn back to tight. Have your mate release the clutch peddle, clutch fluid from the master reservoir should now fill the the master cylinder. Have you mate press the peddle a quarter way and then release the bleed nipple a 1/3 of a turn. Have your mate depress the clutch peddle all the way to maximum travel. Again tighten off the bleed nipple before releasing the clutch peddle. Keep doing this process until no more air bubbles can be seen in the fluid in the pipe attached to the bled nipple. Every four cycles or so check on the fluid level in the master reservoir and keep topped up with fresh fluid. When everything completed tighten the bleed nipple, it is not necessary to tighten the hell out of it as at some point you may need to do this again. Wipe everything down pump the clutch peddle a few times to be sure of correct operation and no leaks.

The shaft should come all the way back, when the pedal is back, the master shaft should be adjusted so there is very little play in the pedal. But it needs some play. Make sure you can see the slave cylinder move when you depress the clutch pedal, you will need help to operate the pedal, while you look.

Your clutch master cylinder sounds like it had bound up, You might want to replace it before it goes out.

there is a clutch switch on the end of clutch peddle this is for safety reasons so you dont launch into lets say your house if it was in gear when you tried to start the truck without pushing in the clutch .i dont recommend bypassing the switch though there are two wires that go to it if put together that will bypass the switch.