1982 Volvo 245 GL - There's a new whirring sound coming from the bottom middle of the car (in-tank fuel pump?) when the key is turned to the ACC position. The engine starts to knock and conks out when I try to drive it. Is there any way I can troubleshoot the problem before I have to call the pros?
You actually have two fuel pumps - one in the tank (booster pump) and one under the car (main pump). The noise is probably the main pump cavitating due to the boost pump not working. Check your fuse box for the in-tank pump fuse being burnt, check the fuel relay to make sure it is clicking, and then check your boost pump to make sure it is working. If all those are okay, maybe you have a leaky hose introducing air into the system before the main pump causing the noise. Just my 2 cents...
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Your test light(s) on the spark plug wires indicate that you're getting spark, but may not be getting fuel. The fact that the engine turns over indicates that your battery is charged, and the ignition switch and starter motor/solenoid are good.
When you turn the key to the "ON" position, listen for the faint whirring sound of the fuel pump operating (inside the fuel tank) - or have a helper listen by pressing their head down to the back seat near the fuel tank/fuel pump.
If no whirring sound comes from the fuel pump motor, then the fuel pump has failed.
Other things to check: if the fuel pump is working, check fuel rail pressure (fuel pressure gauge), and operation of fuel injectors (noid lights). Also, vehicle might be out of gas, due to a fuel line/fuel tank leak.
I seem to remember that there was a relay for the fuel pump. Remover the wires from the fuel pump. Install a lower rating fuse and see if it. Lows. If it does the. There is a problem with the fuel pump relay or you have a short circuit in your wiring. The. You will. Red a diagram to chase that down. Note rays tend to go open circuit on the co instead of shorting out. If the fuse that is. Lowing is on the power side of the relay whe. The pump is disconnected the. You have a wiring short. If it does not blow with the pump disconnected, it is your pump getting ready to go to the big tank in the sky. Good luck
First, determine if your fuel pumps are bad. Check the fuses, fuel pump relays and connections. Listen for whirring sounds when you turn the key to 'run' not start. You should hear an audible click and for one to two seconds, the fuel pumps should activate. NG, check the wiring carefully. The fuel pump relay is known to fail ambiguously and this is a pretty cheap part - much cheaper than changing out fuel pumps and hoses. The hoses don't usually break, but the fuel filter can get clogged up and the main pump can get knackered from a failed tank pump. Ensure to check voltage is at the terminals - changing fuel pumps won't fix electrical faults in the system. Good luck!
Before you do any further investigation, have your vehicle's On Board Diagnostic codes read first - this will determine if there is an electrical circuit malfunction (i.e. fuel pump etc) and will locate the culprit.
Another simple test procedure as follows (in this order):
To test if the fuel pump is operational, turn the key to "ON" (not start) and listen for a "whirring" sound near the petrol tank (operates for about 1sec). If whirring sound is present, the pump is considered working correctly. So in this instance, next check the operation of the fuel pressure regulator and/or check for a blocked fuel filter.
If however, whirring sound is not present, then have the fuel pump "relay" (this relay activates the fuel pump with every key on) checked first.
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1) The fuel pump could be dead. 2) The fuel pump relay (LH models it is located on the driver's side), Regina systems it is located on the coolant expansion tank. Test as follows: turn key to ON and listen for a whirring sound. NG, check the fuse, then check the relay by substitution. 3) Inside the car, the fuel injection relay could also be suspect, but unlikely. Again, check by substitution.
Remember that the fuel pump relay can sometimes fail because of the solder joints making it intermittent. Do not attempt to short across it without the pinouts for the relay - it could destroy the computer outputs along with the computer itself.
You should see a brief stream of gas doing the key test - along with a click of the relay as well with the fuel pump filter disconnected. If all tests good, remove the cover (sedan models) and check the connections in the trunk. On wagon models it is accessed by way of the foldout in the trunk area, then remove the inspection cover, if needed.
This sounds like a problem with the fuel pump. Check your fuel pump relay then listen for a whirring noise when you turn the ignition to the on position; without starting it. You have two fuel pumps; the main and the pre-pump. The pre-pump, which is in the gas tank itself, can be checked by taking the gas cap off the gas tank (with the ignition key on) and listening for a faint whirring noise. If the "whirring" noise is delayed you need to troubleshoot these pumps and see which one is failing.
It could be a blocked pickup in the tank but is more likely a dead fuel pump. Pickuo is located in top of tank and is accesed through the boot(trunk) floor.
Fuel pump is under the right hand rear corner of the car and is mounted on an insulated plate with the accumulator.
should hear a whirring humming sound from the fuel tank (if that is where the pump is located) just turn on the key and take off the gas cap you should hear it.
Also did you drain the fuel from the tank when you had it down ? after that many years the fuel would be "gummed" up.