Question about 1995 Jeep Wrangler

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I have a short on the number 1 fuse next to the battery. I have replaced the ECU, the ignition, I have unpluged the altenator, and coil, and distributer, and still have the short. Any ideas what I should check next?

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  • mandswesleye May 07, 2010

    I have trcaed the wire back to the ecu then I found it at the ignition switch and traced it all over the jeep. It is only shorting when the key is turned on. Were the fuse goes one side is hot always, and the other side grounds out when the key is turned on. I'm really confused!
    Any ideas?

  • mandswesleye May 08, 2010

    I replaced the ignition switch, and the ecu, I am really confused on this one. It seems no matter what I replace it is still there.

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What you have to do is use a voltmeter and back probe the entire wire /circuit until you find the short.
Then remove the shorted portion of the circuit and mend the wiring with crimp connectors or sodering. Or you can replace the entire wire the short was on.
I recommend getting the shop manual for this vehicle.

Posted on May 07, 2010

Testimonial: "Tracing wires sucks, I've been doing it for days now. Thanks for your help. I'm still stumped pretty good though. "

  • JIMMY May 07, 2010

    Based on your reply replace the ignition switch.

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1999. Why does the 15 amp IOD fuse keep blowing?


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PLEASE, up date your posts and not post 5 posts.
update it and tell the full story 1 time. THEN ADD TO IT, and please not start a new post. for 1 problem.

first off , i answered in details how to test the nostarts for just that.
but in another post its a blown fuse. then you fail to say which it is
or if it RE BLOWS> that is a big problem , posting

first off here are the no start rules. (you lost spark , got that)
1: check fuses, if the fuse blows again, this is JOB 1. spark is later. much later, the ECU can no process data, if there is no 12vdc POWER , it cant,
nor can it glow the CEL /SES lamp in the dash, IT cant.
The ECU in this car makes spark and fuel happen.
there are 3 fuses to blow that can kill the ECU dead.
so the first JOB on all modern EFI cars, is to get the CEL TO GLOW.
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. = CEL.

your problem on car is not NOSTART
its NO power
no 12vdc power to the EFI system parts.
is the battery charged?
12.6vdc rested, or at 11v. ?
this is first.
then does that fuse keep blowing. i bet does, my gut feeling.
and which fuse?
if the fuse blows, we must to short testing
we have great videos to cover that, very detailed,....

btw2
the honda, has free operators guides
and full FSM , for free... ask.

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Well if you've had your ECM burn and got it changed and the same thing happen again then there might be a pilled positive wire exposed to the body or the chassis of your car touching at some point,my best advice is to trace all positive heavy wires leading from the starter and under the fuse board as well.i hope this helps thanks

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1994 Geo Metro will not start


all spark plugs dead. and at the main coil?
in this case after fuse (test them , ones that look good can be bad)
these steps work or all EFI cars made.
first is the rotor spinning cranking, if not the cam belt snapped!
a 1 second check, do you try to run 60k mile belts 200k ?


  1. CEL lamp on? key on? no crank? y/n,, if no the ECU is dead. or lamp burned out, we fix this FIRST. for next tests.
  2. I insert the diagnostic jumper clip (paper clip)
  3. the CEL now flashes codes, write them all down.
  4. I then crank for 5 seconds. and release the key.
  5. The ECU then reports live codes. beyond above stored codes.
  6. The ECU is very good at finding bad crank or cam sensors dead or even missing pulses, 1 in 10 lost. trust it, on all cars ......
  7. if no sensor code errors or spark bad errors then do the next things.
  8. The ecu also reads back the Tacho signal and will report dead tacho, sig, the ECU creates this and is the COIL drive signal to the ignition coil via the IGNITOR device.
  9. If the ignitor dies, or the coil primary opens, (dead Ign.coil) then the ECU see this and gives you Spark fail codes, cranking only!
  10. if you get far with a dead ignition coil, the ignitor is bad or the coil assuming coil even has power 12vcd key on.
this is all in the FSM, if you read it.
as is the Ignitior tests, and the coil tests.
The FSM is an amazing thing if your read it.
buy one.

ECU = engine brain, or EFI brain
EFI = eletronic fuel injection
CEL is the check engine light also called SES or MIL.
your ECU is OBD1 and no scan tool works .
only the winky blinky light.

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ecu is faulty, short or ground in ecu

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Symptom table:
- Open or short in Ignition confirmation signal IGF and Ignition Trigger signal IGT1 - IGT2 - IGT3 - IGT4 from Ignition coil to igniter.
- No.1 - No. 4 Ignition coil with Igniter.
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Car stopped while driving. Tried to start it , but to o avail. Turns over , but no spark. Changed coil changed distributor changed rotor and still nothing. Any ideas?


Hi, you will need a voltmeter to diagnose the problem. Set your meter to DC, turn the key on, and check the voltage at the positive coil terminal (black wire with white stripe) with the other probe at engine ground. If no battery voltage, suspect your ignition switch or fuse. If you have battery voltage to the coil, next set your meter to AC and check voltage across the coil primary winding (black wire with white stripe and other black wire) while someone cranks the engine. You should have at least 1 volt AC or more. If no AC voltage, suspect your crank angle sensor inside the distributor. The distributor would have to be replaced, so you would want to be sure it's bad. There are some specific tests you could run, but I would need to know the exact engine you have to provide correct test procedures.

jturcotte_1696.gif


TESTING

E16i, CA16DE and CA18DE Engines
See Figures 1, 2 and 3


0900c152801ce40b.jpg

Fig. Fig. 1: Crank angle sensor testing terminals-CA16DE engine


0900c152801ce40c.jpg

Fig. Fig. 2: Crank angle sensor testing-E16i engine


0900c152801ce40d.jpg

Fig. Fig. 3: Crank angle sensor testing-CA18DE engine

  1. Disconnect the CMP electrical connector.
  2. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
  3. Using a voltmeter and check the CMP power source between terminal B and a known good engine ground. The voltmeter should read approximately battery voltage.

    If reading is as specified, proceed to the next step. If reading is not as specified, check power supply circuitry.

  1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
  2. Using an ohmmeter, check the CMP sensor ground circuit, by connecting the meter between a known good engine ground and terminal:

    E16i engine- terminal D . CA16DE and CA18DE engines- terminal A .

  1. Continuity should exist.

    If continuity does not exist, repair open in ground circuit. If continuity does exist, proceed to the next step.
  2. Start the engine.
  3. To test the sensor 180° signal, connect a logic probe between the following terminals:

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  1. To test the sensor 1° signal, connect a logic probe between the following terminals:

    E16i and CA18DE engines-ECU terminal 8 and a known good engine ground. CA18DE engine-ECU terminals 22, 32 and a known good engine ground.

  1. The logic probe should indicate that a pulse signal exists in both tests. If a pulse signal was not present, inspect wiring. If wiring is okay, replace the crank angle sensor.

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