Question about 2000 Chrysler Grand Voyager

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How do i change a leaking evaporator core.

1999 ply grand voyager, I replaced all O' rings, filter/dryer and expansion valve. after evacuating/charging, I hear hissing and misting from the center fo dash, I removed the top dash and duck work,all front panels and im not seeing any way of removing the evaporator core...A can or stop leak won't fix the i need to replace the core.

please help me,
John J Henry

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The entire dash, door to door top to bottem has to be removed to be able to take out hvac housing so you can take apart to get at the core [recomend do heater core at same time] the dash comes out as an entire unit guages and all. bolts on ends under plastic covers,on top near winshield under vent trim.,bolts on floor in center below radio and a/c controlls,steering column has to come out. multiple wire connectors etc. its an all day job for a pro so its going to take awhile but its pretty straight forward

Posted on May 06, 2010


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  1. Remove the filter lid (A), then pull out the dust and pollen filters (B).

  2. Pull out the evaporator temperature sensor (C) from the evaporator fins.

  3. Remove the screws, carefully separate the upper housing (D) from the lower housing (E), then remove the evaporator core (F).

  4. If necessary, remove the expansion valve (G). Use a second wrench to hold the other fitting on the valve so the evaporator line won't twist. Leave the first fitting loosely connected so you can use it to hold the valve while you loosen the second fitting.

  5. Reassemble the evaporator in the reverse order of disassembly, and note these items:

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Unfortunately, I do not know precisely. But for the most part auto a/c's are all the same. Below I will describe how to find it. I have also included a aguide to determine system operability that may or may not be helpful. Just trace the system with flow path described below the valve has to be between condensor and evaporator.

Reminder the flow for the a/c system is :
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2. From the condenser a HP liquid goes to an expansion device (orifice tube or expansion valve)
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Below is a guide to troubleshoot and check system function. This can be done by most folks.

Look at the front of the ac compressor and have someone turn on the ac from inside the car. The front of the pulley(clutch) will spin when turned on.

If it does not spin, the low pressure switch (LPS) is not satisfied. Meaning there is not enough freon in the system to operate the system. Means low freon capicity because of a leak.

The LPS can be jumpered to cause the compressor to run (clutch to engaged) which will draw the freon in the system.

The LPS is usually a two wire sensor on the suction of the compressor. (between evaporator and compressor) Unplug the sensor and install a jumper, this will engage the clutch. Connect a new can of freon
and fill to system capacity.

The capacity of the ac system will be on a label under the hood, do not overfill. Probably about 2 lbs. Local parts stores (Auto Zone and Advance) will have freon with stop leak. This may help the leak. They also make a freon with a UV dye. I always add a single can with dye so that if stop leak does not work I can find the leak in the future.

The system should be filled until suction pressure is about 30 to 38 psi..

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Evaporator core

This is a very involved procedure! I just changed the evaporator core ($83 with shipping from Ebay) on my 1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager and it took me 10 hours. The quote from the repair shop was $800 - $1000 for labor alone! Parts that must be changed also are the receiver/drier (next to the radiator). Other parts that should be changed are the expansion valve (on the firewall) and all the O-rings. The system should be flushed and must be vacuumed down and serviced. It's also a good idea to remove the compressor, drain the oil, and look for any signs of damage - such as bits of teflon or a gray-black sludge. Don't forget to add oil to the system or you'll be needing a new compressor in no time. The oil capacity is 9 oz. and 34 oz. of R-134a.

I found this posting of photos and instructions and couldn't have changed the evap without them. Special thanks to the Dodge forum, Mr. Mahoney and Dodge Tech. Here's the link:

Some notes, as the instructions are somewhat ambiguos:

1. VERY IMPORTANT TIME SAVER: The steering column, instrument panel and dash all come out as a single unit! In the photos Mr. Mahoney disassembled way more than he had to. The instructions may be interpreted incorrectly and you'd be tempted to separate the steering column from the dash, or remove the instrument bezel, or the hvac controls. This is totally unnecessary! Just take your time and look at everything and check and double-check what needs removed/disconnected. Also, the step where it says to remove the nuts from the steering column at the die cast brake pedal support - those are the ones (4) that go forward to the bracket on the firewall, NOT the 4 nuts that go up to the dash! Again, the steering column comes out with the dash as a unit.

2. Some things left out of the steps: Disconnecting the parking brake light wire, disconnecting the blower fan wires, and removing the one hidden bolt from the bottom of the plenum. That bolt is near the floor, just the the left of center, and holds the bottom of the plenum to the firewall.

3. I found it much easier to get access to the engine side of the firewall by removing the alternator. This gives more room to get at the expansion valve and the 3 nuts that hold the plenum to the firewall.

4. Once you get the dash all the way out, and the plenum removed it's about 15 mins to half an hour to change the evaporator. Isn't that ironic?

I hope I haven't left anything out, and that this helps you. Let me know if there's anything else I can help with.

1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager. 178,000 miles and goin' strong!

May 23, 2009 | 1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager

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