Question about 1997 Saab 900

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Lever will not move to 'drive' with start,and brake pedal pressed

Just recently replaced wheel with a donut and wondering if that is causing the lever not to move to 'drive'.

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  • Kirk Augustin
    Kirk Augustin May 11, 2010

    Don't see how? Isn't the shifter on the console in this model? But what kind of wheel was replaced by a "donut"? Do you mean you had a flat tire and replaced it with a temp spare, or do you mean you replaced the steering wheel? Don't get it.

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I assume you have an automatic transmission....There is a relay in the engine compartment labeled shift-lock that keeps you from shifting into drive if your foot is not on the brake pedal...you can try tapping on it a few times and see if that works....if it goes bad then your car will not go into drive but it is a relatively cheap fix. There is also a solenoid, located I believe under the shift console, that can go bad but since it is tied into the vehicle alarm system you may want to have a Tech with Saab experience look at that. Hope this helped.

Posted on May 07, 2010

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2005 cts won't sift out of park, press the brake pedal and start the car, just won't shift out of park


You probably have a problem with

Automatic Transmission Shift Lock Control System
The automatic transmission shift lock control system is a safety device that prevents an inadvertent shift out of PARK when the engine is running. The driver must press the brake pedal before moving the shift lever out of the PARK position. The system consists of the following components.
• The automatic transmission shift lock control solenoid
• The brake switch
• The rear integration module (RIM)
• The transmission control module (TCM) or powertrain control module (PCM)
With the ignition ON, battery positive voltage is supplied to the automatic transmission shift lock control solenoid from the ignition 3 relay. The automatic transmission shift lock control solenoid is controlled by the rear integration module. When the rear integration module (RIM) receives a class 2 serial data message from the transmission control module (TCM) or powertrain control module (PCM) indicating that the shift lever is in the PARK position the rear integration module (RIM) grounds the automatic transmission shift lock control solenoid control circuit. This causes the solenoid to energize mechanically locking the shift lever in the PARK position. When the driver presses the brake pedal the rear integration module receives the brake applied signal and turns off the ground to the automatic transmission shift lock control solenoid control circuit. This allows the shift lever to be moved out of the PARK position.

Shift Lever Does Not Move with Brake Pedal Depressed

2
Apply the parking brake and block the wheels.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Attempt to move the shift lever out of the PARK position.
Does the shift lever move out of the PARK position?
YES - Go to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems
NO - Go to Step 3
3
Turn OFF the ignition.
Install a scan tool.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
With a scan tool, observe the TCC brake switch parameter in the transmission data display list.
Press and release the brake pedal several times.
Does the TCC brake switch status turn ON and OFF with the brake pedal?
YES - Go to Step 4
NO - Go to Stop Lamps Inoperative in Lighting Systems
4
With a scan tool, observe the brake to shift control parameter in the rear integration module data list.
Press and release the brake pedal several times.
Does the brake to shift control status turn ON and OFF with the brake pedal?
YES - Go to Step 5
NO - Go to Step 8
5
Turn OFF the ignition.
Connect a test lamp between the automatic transmission shift lock control solenoid supply voltage circuit and the automatic transmission shift lock control solenoid control circuit at the automatic transmission shift lock control solenoid.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
With a scan tool, command the brake to shift control ON and OFF several times while observing the test lamp.
Does the test lamp turn ON and OFF with each command?
YES - Go to Step 7
NO - Go to Step 6
6
Test the automatic transmission shift lock control solenoid control circuit for and open or short to battery voltage. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
YES - Go to Step 11
NO - Go to Step 8
7
Inspect for poor connection at the harness connector of the automatic transmission shift lock control solenoid. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
YES - Go to Step 11
NO - Go to Step 9
8
Inspect for poor connections at the harness connector of the rear integration module (RIM). Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Yes - Go to Step 11
NO - Go to Step 10
9
Replace the automatic transmission shift lock control solenoid. Refer to Automatic Transmission Shift Lock Actuator Replacement .
YES - Did you complete the replacement?
NO - Go to Step 11
--
10
Replace the RIM. Refer to Control Module References in Computer/Integrating Systems for replacement, setup, and programming.
YES - Did you complete the replacement?
NO - Go to Step 11
--
11
Operate the system in order to verify the repair.
Did you find and correct the condition?
YES - System OK
NO - Go to Step 2

Mar 25, 2017 | Cadillac CTS Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to get my 1998 ford expedition out of park


Check the brake lights, are they working? bet not. If not check the brake light switch at the brake arm to the brake pedal, use a 12 volt probing test light ($5 at part store), see is you have power to the brake light switch and when the brake pedal is pressed you have both power in and power out (test light will light up). This problem is common and can be caused by a defective brake light switch connector (available new from Ford parts) or the brake light switch is defective. If the brake light switch is defective go to youtube and search for a video of replacing it, it is a 20 minute job for even a novice.

May 21, 2016 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Why does it get stuck in park


Chris: According to MyAutomaticTransmission.com: "Shifter Lever

Recognizing that you might one day find yourself in such a predicament, vehicle manufacturers incorporated a quick and easy method for manually releasing a shifter stuck in Park. Follow these 4 simple steps.

1. Set the emergency brake.

2. Locate the shifter lock override slot located on the shifter console near the shifter lever. Normally, the slot is plugged with a small plastic cap.

3. Remove the plastic cap covering the override slot and insert a key, nail file or similarly shaped object into the slot and push down.

4. While pushing down, depress the brake pedal, grab the shifter and push in the shifter lock button located on the shifter as you normally do and then move the shifter to the Neutral position. With the brake pedal still depressed, start the engine with the shifter in the Neutral position.

NOTE: If the shifter lever will still not move, repeat the process making sure to press down firmly on the locking mechanism and the brake pedal simultaneously as you attempt to move the shifter lever.


NOTE: Continuing to drive your vehicle in this condition will not cause any additional damage. You will just have to use this procedure to release the shifter each time you attempt to move the shifter out of the Park position." I hope this helps you!

May 28, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

There is a click in the shift lever area when i start the engine and press the brake pedal


this is a safety feature that maybe going bad. you should NOT be able to put the car in gear without the brake on. this is controlled by a solenoid in the shift lever. the sound you here is it disengaging so that you can move the lever. it may be loose or worn so it is "clicking" when it actuates. If it is still working correctly just keep an eye on it a plan for a replacement when it gets worse.

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Gear shift lever was replaced 3 weeks ago due to an issue of not being able to move the lever from Park into any gear. Now the key got stuck in the ignition and I can't turn the ignition. I wiggled the...


does it have a shift lock if so its normally dissengaged by pressing the brake pedal there should also be a release button on the shift lever or located under the consul there should be an acess hole if the switch on the brake pedal is faulty it will not allow u to shift out of park the shift lever can be the cause of the key not comming out if park possition is not selected properly

Apr 17, 2011 | 2007 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer

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How to adjust brakes on a 1994 Toyota Tercel


There are two methods of adjusting the brakes on your vehicle.
  • Start by pressing in the button on the hand (parking) brake lever and keeping it depressed while you pull it to the extreme of its travel
  • Have a friend listen to both rear wheels for a clicking sound (which indicates that the automatic adjusters are working)
  • Keep up this method until the lever begins operating at a lower position and gives just six clicks to activate.
  • If the foot pedal still seems low, We then have to go to the other method.
  • Take two chassis stands, or wooden blocks, but NOT concrete blocks as these may crush under the weight of the vehicle
  • Chock the front wheels at the back and front of each, so the vehicle is secure.
  • Next loosen the rear wheel nuts (lugs)
  • Jack up the rear of the vehicle and remove the nuts and wheels.
  • Look carefully at the brake drum and you will see two tapped holes which will accept twelve mm bolts (head or spanner size) The bolts should have at least three inches of thread.
  • Release the hand brake.
  • Insert the two bolts and tighten them at the same time, so that the drum is removed evenly.
  • Inspect the brake linings to make sure they don't require replacement.
  • Inspect the inside of the drums to make sure that they are free from ridges.
  • If they have ridges they should first be skimmed before using....and keep in mind that there is a minimum thickness that if exceeded means replacement of the drums.
  • At the upper part of the assembly you will see an assembly rod with a wheel in the middle and locked in place by a lever which rests against it....
  • Pull the lever away from the wheel and using a screw driver, turn the wheel so that the rod expands, becoming longer count each click of adjustment.
  • The adjusting wheel should only be moved the equivalent of one tooth at a time.
  • Adjust until the drum fits back and can revolve but a tiny swishing sound can be heard when rotating.
  • Carry out the same adjustment on the opposite side and reassemble.
  • Check the hand brake for correct movement.(six clicks to engagement)
  • Pump the brake pedal once or twice and the keeping your foot depressed on the pedal, start the engine.
  • The pedal should move lower as the servo becomes operational. (that's an additional test on a different part of the braking system) which I thought you like to know....If the pedal remains without moving, there is a defect in the servo unit.
All the best....Regards Johngee10







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1 Answer

T brakes after driving on a donut pare


I believe driving on the donut spare has nothing to do with the problem-it isn't all wheel drive option is it? You say you added brake fluid, how low was the level? If it is losing fluid, you might have a rusted brake line that is leaking. Any evidence of a leak under the van? It's possible the master brake cylinder is bad, but this seems to be a sudden start of the problem. Did the tire blow out or did you go out to find it flat in the morning? I believe this is a leaking brake line issue. It is possible that if the tire blew out while driving, or you hit something (like debris) in the road, it may have damaged a brake line. As I mentioned earlier, it could just be a rusted leaking brake line. If brake fluid leaked on the exhaust or any hot components, it would give off a 'chemical' smell ( or even have an odor if it just leaked out) Let me know what you find.

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2 Answers

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If this works move the lever several times to loosen the bracket, leave it in neutral, press the brake pedal  and start the engine. Leave it running at idle for a while , till the oil heats up - 5-10 minutes , depending how cold is outside. Then repeat the lever movement till the efort becomes neglijable. If it doesn't or jams again take the car to the repair shop, it needs tinkering.

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This could be several things. How are the brakes right now? I'm wondering if something wasn't tightened properly when you had work done on the car recently. You need to jack up the car and grab hold of the wheel and see if there is any play (looseness) when moved from top to bottom in and out, and front and back in and out. It could be a wheel bearing or cv joint, although with 52k it shouldn't be a problem. Pull the wheel to visually check for something obvious. Caliper secured properly, brake pads ok, etc. Some brake component may not have been properly tightened. Let me know what you find. Good luck.

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1 Answer

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Your brake light switch is adjusted in all the way and is pressing on the brake pedal. This causes the brake to be slightly applied. As you drive the vehicle the brake fluid heats up and expands, the brakes will apply more and more until you see the smoke. Bottom line: your brakes are always applied at the master cylinder because something(usually the brake light switch) is out of adjustment.

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