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Re: brake light comes on
ABS lite or regular brake lite?
If regular brake light you could have an internal leak in the master cylinder. The other options is that the brake light switch (on the emergency brake pedal or hand brake which ever is applicable) is grounded.
Either way have a repair shop check out both possibilities. They are a little tricky to diagnosis.
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Lining thickness is dependent on a few factors. A. Is your lining bonded to the shoe or pad, or is it Rivited to the shoe or pad? B. What is the application? Lining thickness is determined ultimatley by the manufacturer. Generally speaking on Automotive and light truck applications new lining for brake shoes is between 6/32nds and 12/32nds of an inch. Add a couple 32nds if rivited. On front brake pads the lining is much thicker when new. On average a new brake pad can have lining between 10/32nds to 18/32nds. Pads are in need of replacement when bonded lining has worn to 2/32nd and rivited lining has worn to 3/32nds since the rivet head can come in contact with the disc brake rotor or drum at 1/32nds. Lining can also break free from the pad or shoe when they get that low due to rotor or drum out-of-round. This can cause lining to break free from the pad or shoe and cause dmage to the drum or rotor surface. When replacing brakes, its always good to have drums or rotors machined or replaced. For rotors, there are three specs to take into consideration. 1. Minimium machining thickness. If rotors are machined beyond their reccomended minimium machining they will warp due to heat. This warping will eventually lead to brake pedal pulsation. 2. Run-out; Run-out is measured using a dial micrometer and usually .003 to .005 of an inch is considered excessive. 3. Material Thickness Variation; or parralleism is measure with a micrometer. .0003 to .0005 ten thousandths of an inch is considered excessive. It is extremly hard to find a rotor that will pass all three of these measurements. If someone tells you the rotors do not need to be machined because they "look good", don't trust them because they don't know what they are talking about. Rotor condition can not be determined by the human eye. Drums have a maximium diameter they can not exceed, as well as an out-of-round specification as well. A good brake job will always have drums and rotors either machined or replaced. Money can be saved if they can be machined as it it cheaper to machine than replace.
YOU NEED TO REPLACE BRAKE PADS WHEN BRAKES GET NOISEY. NOT SUPPOSE TO SPRAY ANY THING ON THE BRAKE PADS OR BRAKE ROTORS.YOU NEED TO CLEAN ROTORS USING BRAKE CLEANER.REMOVE THE LUBRICANT OR WHAT EVER YOU SPRAY ON BRAKE PADS AND BRAKE ROTORS.
Are the leading edges on the brake pads bevelled at an angle or are they flat on the brake rotors? There seems to be a problem with Japanese brake rotors (something about the harmonics) and they will sometimes squeal (even with new brake rotors and pads) if the leading edges on the brake pads are not bevelled at an angle. Most of the auto repair shops that I have worked at will only install bevelled edge brake pads on foreign vehicles, especially if they are Japanese imports. If the brake pads do have the edges bevelled then most likely dust has found its way between the brake pad and the brake rotor, and brake dust contamination is the #1 reason for a brake squeal come-back, and that is why a good repair facility will always clean the entire brake assembly including the backing plate for the brake rotor. Also, the brake caliper guides should be able to slide freely in and out of the brake caliper but they should not be sloppy either, and the brake caliper guides should be lubricated with a synthetic brake caliper grease only. The caliper guides should be able to slide freely in the brake caliper and if they do not the brake will not properly release.
If the brake calipers have phenolic (plastic) brake pistons then get rid of them for brake calipers with metal brake pistons.
Here is an image of the two different brake pad designs.
your brake pads have a small sensor built in and when they contact the rotor it competes the curcuit and the light comes on your pads are worn out i suggest replacment soon or run the risk of needing new rotors
Remove brake pads.
Remove Brake calipers bolts from the back of calipers.
Put calipers aside without removing brake lines.
Remove rotor bolts.
Install new rotors
Make sure new rotors are clean from any grease that comes on it with petrol or any cleaning chemical for that purpose (no water)
Install new brake pads
The brakes. It goes off because your brake fluid has gone below the minimum level, and sets the sensor off. Before you go adding brake fluid, what it REALLY means is that your brake pads are so worn down that the brake pistons in your calipers are extended all the way in order to make contact with the rotors. Therefore, the amount of fluid in your reservoir is low. Replace your brake pads, and see if you also need your rotors shaved/replaced because you let them go so far. Personal note: On older cars, the brake fluid is supposed to be replaced every 3 years. See if it needs a flush. If you can, drain out all the old DOT 3 brake fluid and replace it with synthetic DOT 3 or the newer DOT 4.