Question about 1986 Toyota Pickup 4WD

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I have replaced wheel cylinders master cylinder brake lines calipers everything bled for days get two maybe three solid brake applications then pedal drops to floor wtf

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If nothing is leaking at the wheel cylinders , it has to be the master cylinder. I have fitted had a couple of new ones that have needed a complete clean out, before fittting

Posted on May 07, 2010

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The front drivers side break keeps locking. I have replaced the caliper and now when I pump it no fluid is coming out from the line.


Did air get into the master cylinder? If you can, try bleeding the master cylinder. The fact that you aren't getting any fluid out of the line suggests that the master cylinder isn't pumping fluid.

Master cylinders are (usually) on a split circuit system - that is, the front left brake is on the same line as the rear right. The front right brake is on the same circuit as the rear left.

A point to be aware of is when bleeding brakes/doing brake work and if the master cylinder runs dry, is that a seal inside the master cylinder can fail/twist over and not pressurise that particular line, even though it may pressurise the opposite brake line.

I'm in the UK. I have a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4 litre, which I am slowly rebuilding. Three weeks ago I fitted new front brake rotors, new front callipers and pads. I've been rebuilding cars for over 40 years now and have done countless brake overhauls.

.. and could I get a hard pedal after the job was completed? I must have bled the brakes three times a day for a week and couldn't get a brake pedal. I phoned a full time mechanic I know - he came and tried to bleed the brakes three times and couldn't get a hard pedal.

That's when you think 'The master cylinder was working before I started the job so it must be still working now'.

I fitted a brand new master cylinder and because some parts for older jeeps are hard to come by in the UK, I fitted a second hand proportioning valve. When I bled the brakes again the pedal became rock solid. Fixed.

You're probably fed up with your braking problem now ... and apparently this 'no fluid/brake pedal' is more common than you may think.

Try bleeding the master cylinder if you can. If you suspect that it isn't fully working - try an overhaul kit which is cheaper than a new master cylinder.

As for changing the proportioning valve .. that's your decision. My brakes now work though the truth is I don't actually know which was at fault as I changed both the master cylinder and proportioning valve at the same time. Maybe both were at fault, for whatever reason. I genuinely don't know.

The positive aspect is that you are doing your own work and know what you're doing. You're saving on labour charges.

Apr 18, 2016 | 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan

2 Answers

1994 Pontiac Grand Am Brake pedal sinks to floor.


I've had the same problem before, ended up being a bad master cylinder that I just purchased. Replaced it with a different brand and it worked fine.

Apr 23, 2013 | 1994 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

I replaced disc brake pads, rear shoes. wheel cylinder,master cylinder, power brake booster all new. Question: My brake pedal is not solid,goes low to the floor almost. I have bled the master cylinder 1st,...


Check your lines going to the brakes the rubber hose on the 1993 chevy have a tendancy to crack and brake are you using an excess of brake fluid

Sep 12, 2011 | 1993 Chevrolet C1500

1 Answer

How to bleed brakes on 1997 Saturn


The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
  1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
    3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
    4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
    5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
    6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left front
    3. Left rear
    4. Right front
  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
    2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
    3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
    4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
  3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
zjlimited_349.jpg

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

zjlimited_350.jpg

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

zjlimited_351.jpg

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system





Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

Dec 29, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

1 Answer

Pistons in both front calipers stay out, both calipers replaced


You may have a leak in the booster or master cylinder. You can put a pressure tester on the system to test for leaks. It does sound like you have an air leak.
You can try to bleed the master cylinder, then slave cylinder, then brake lines.

Aug 24, 2009 | 1993 Oldsmobile Achieva

2 Answers

I have a 92 chrsy. 5th ave with no antilock brakes. just base brakes with rear drums. replaced master cly. due to leaking and replaced all the brake lines and hoses. i have good streams of fluid from all 4...


When you bleed the brakes are you starting with brake furthest from the master cylinder? Also was the master cylinder bench bled? If everything there is okay and you are not getting any air in fluid stream, you could try bleeding the brakes by having some one slowly pump the pedal till it is firm. Then have them let off open first bleeder valve and slowly depress to floor and hold there untol the valve is closed. repeat this at all bleeders. You may want to have car running to do this. Try this and let me know.

Jul 02, 2009 | Chrysler New Yorker Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Just replaced master cylinder on 1990 aerostar and bled the brakes, still the pedal goes to floor and i have no brakes


Did you bench bleed the master cyl. before installing it? then when you installed the new master, did you bleed all 4 points? If yes, then check all for points for leaking caliper/s and leaking wheel cylinder/s. If the van has ABS, check the valve body for a bleeder screw and see if air bleeds out of it. If you've checked everything twice and did everything right then your new master cyl. may be defective.

Apr 29, 2009 | 1986 Ford F 250

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