Having trouble removing a wheel hub assembly on a 99 mercury cougar, not sure i need remove the control arm, already removed the tie rod, sway bar link, brakes, rodor, and all visible bolts including axle nut

1. Loosen front strut upper mount nuts. 2. Raise and support vehicle, then remove front wheel and tire. 3. Remove wheel hub nut. Do not discard wheel hub nut at this time. 4. Remove front brake caliper anchor plate bolts and position brake caliper and anchor plate assembly aside. Support brake caliper and anchor plate assembly using mechanics wire. 5. Remove brake disc screw, then thread a M10 bolt into brake disc removal hole and tighten to press disc off hub. 6. Remove tie rod end nut, then separate tie rod from wheel knuckle. No special tools are required to separate tie rod from front knuckle; use a mallet to loosen joint. 7. Remove stabilizer bar link upper nut. 8. Detach wheel speed sensor harness from strut. 9. Remove wheel speed sensor from wheel knuckle. Position wheel speed sensor aside. 10. Remove lower ball joint nut, using a crowfoot wrench. Use hex-holding feature to prevent stud from turning while removing nut. 11. Push lower control arm downward until ball joint is clear of wheel knuckle. Use care when releasing lower control arm and knuckle into resting position or damage to ball joint seal may occur. 12. Press halfshaft from wheel bearing and hub, using a suitable front wheel hub remover. Support halfshaft in a level position. Do not allow halfshaft to move outboard. Overextension of CV joint may result in separation of internal parts, causing failure of halfshaft. 13. Remove upper strut mount nuts. 14. Remove wheel knuckle and strut and spring as an assembly. 15. Remove strut to wheel knuckle nut and flag-bolt. 16. Separate strut and spring assembly from wheel knuckle. 17. Reverse procedure to install, noting following: a. Wheel hub nut contains a one time locking chemical that is activated by heat created when it is tightened. Install and tighten new wheel hub nut to specification within 5 minutes of starting it on threads. Always install a new wheel hub nut after loosening or when not tightened within specified time or damage to components can occur. b. Torque lower strut bolt to knuckle to 129 ft. lbs. c. Torque lower ball joint to knuckle to 148 ft. lbs. d. Torque wheel speed sensor to knuckle to 133 in. lbs. e. Torque stabilizer bar upper link to 111 ft. lbs. f. Torque previously removed hub nut to 258 ft. lbs; to seat halfshaft. g. Torque new hub nut to 258 ft. lbs. h. Torque upper strut mount nuts to 46 ft. lbs. i. Torque wheel lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs.

opper Control Arm Bushings

• To access the upper control arm, remove the shock absorber and the strut bar. Also, disconnect the sway bar from the lower control arm, if your particular Ram model is equipped with it. After that, you can hold the coil spring in place with a spring compressor.
  Secure the wheel hub assembly to the chassis using a wire before you disconnect the upper ball joint. This will prevent damage to the brake hose. When ready, release the ball joint using a ball-stud loosening tool (see Resources).
  The upper control arm mounts to the chassis with a cam bolt assembly. Once removed, you can place the control arm on a vise and remove the bushings using a bushing service tool (see Resources). When installing the new bushings, do not use any lubricant but make sure the flange on the bushing end seats properly on the arm bore. Then re-install the upper control arm. When finished, take your Dodge vehicle to a good shop to align the front suspension.
  

Lower Control Arm Bushings

• Remove the shock absorber and strut bar. If your particular model is equipped with a sway bar, disconnect it from the lower control arm.
  Secure the coil spring with a spring compressor and release the lower ball joint from the wheel/hub assembly using a ball stud loosening tool (see Resources).
  Now you can release the lower control arm by removing the rear mounting bolts. Remove the bushings with a bushing service tool (see Resources). When installing the new bushings, do not use lubricant and make sure they seat properly on the control arm bore. Then replace the lower control arm. When finished, take your Dodge vehicle to a good shop to align the front suspension
  

Hi,welcome to fixya.


The rear wheel bearings are not adjustable. If the bearings make noise or become loose, they must be replaced.

Removal & Installation

With Drum Brakes

NOTE The wheel bearings are contained within the wheel hub and must be replaced as an assembly.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
4. Remove the anti-lock sensor retaining bolt and remove the sensor.
5. Remove the brake drum retainer and the brake drum.
6. Remove the hub retaining nut dust cover.
   NOTE Do not use an impact gun to remove the hub retainer nut.
   
   
   Fig. Using suitable tools loosen and . . .
   
   
   Fig. . . . remove the hub retaining nut dust cover
   
7. Remove the wheel hub retainer nut.
   
   Fig. Using suitable tools, loosen and . . .
   
   
   Fig. . . . remove the hub retaining nut
   
8. Slide the hub and bearing assembly off of the spindle.
   
   Fig. Carefully slide the hub and bearing assembly off of the spindle
   

To install:

1. Reinstall the hub and bearing assembly to the spindle.
2. Reinstall the hub retainer nut. Tighten the retainer nut to 170-192 ft. lbs. (230-260 Nm).
   WARNING Do not use an impact gun to tighten the hub retainer nut, otherwise the bearings may be damaged.
   
3. Install the hub retaining nut dust cover.
4. Reinstall the brake drum.
5. Check the brake shoes for proper adjustment.
6. Reinstall the anti-lock sensor and the retaining bolt. Tighten the retaining bolt to 7-8 ft. lbs. (9-11 Nm).
7. Reinstall the wheel and tire assembly. Tighten the wheel nuts to 62 ft. lbs. (85 Nm).
8. Lower the vehicle until the wheels are supporting the vehicles weight. This will properly load the suspension.
9. Tighten the spindle-to-control arm bolt to 52-79 ft. lbs. (70-98 Nm).
10. Tighten the tie rod-to-spindle bolt to 75-102 ft. lbs. (102-135 Nm).
11. Finish lowering the vehicle.

Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.
Thank You for using fixya........iluv2fish........Ray........

No but need to release the sway bar link from the control arm and the tie rod from the wheel bearing assembly.

I recommend you get a Haynes or Chilton repair manual for most auto parts stores ($20-$30). But to save you some money:
Tie Rods:
1. Loosen the lug nuts.
2. Raise front of vehicle.
3, Support it with jack stands.
4. Chock/Block the rear tires.
5. Set the parking brake.
6. Remove the front tire.
7. Mark the nut shaped end of the tie rod and the jam nut with a straight line on top.
8. Using two wrenches - one on the tie rod (nut shaped) end and the other on the jam nut,..loosen SLIGHTLY the jam nut (clockwise turn). While loosening the jam nut - make sure you count the number of turns 1/4, 1/2, 1, 2 etc...
9. Using 11/32 Socket remove the tie-rod end to steering knuckle nut.
10. Use a tie rod end separator (fork) or ball joint separator (jaws) and separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle.
11. Before turning the tire rod off the steering arm: Count the number of turns coming off the arm using the mark you put on the tie rod nut shaped end.
Notice on the final turn off the arm what the mark position is. This wil be the position you start when screwing the new tie rod on.
12. Place the jam nut back just short of it's original position.
13. Screw the new tie rod back starting with that start position and with the same number of turns.
14. Connect the tie rod and steering knuckle.
15. Tighten the tie rod to steering knuckle nut to 40 ft-lbs.
16. The tie rod end and jam nut should then be tightened. They should be close anyway within a 1/8 turn.
17. Install lug nuts.
18. Lower Van.
19. Tighten lug nuts to 100 ft-lbs. Using the everyother nut until all are tightened process.
20. Wheel alignment? Test drive Van and have checked at an alignment shop.

The Stabilizer Bar Bushings:
Steps 1. thru Step 6 above. Remove both tires.
7. Remove bolts (should be 10 of them) attaching the cradle plate to the bottom of the front suspension cradle.
8. Remove the cradle plate.
9. Remove the stablizer bar links from the stabilzer bar. Confused? There is a straight bar coming from the Strut down to the sway (stabilizer) bar (which goes from one side of the Van to the other). Remove this nut.
10. Remove the stabilizer (sway) bar bushing retainers (one on each side) from the front suspension cradle.
11. Be careful this bar is heavy and will fall suddenly and may hit you on the head!!
12. Remove the bar and bushings as a unit (together).
13. Install the new bushings with the slits facing the rear of the Van and the square corners facing the ground.
14. Make sure you clean the areas on the bar where the bushings are positioned.
15. Use lubricant (non-petroleum based, like vegetable oil) to easy re-assembly.
16. Re-assembly is pretty much the reverse.
Hints:
a. Align the stabilizer bar in position using the depressions in the cradle.
b. Do not tighten all-the-way the bushing retainers until later.
c. Tighten stabilizer bar to link stabilzer (sway) bar to 65 ft-lbs.
d. Tighten bushing retainer nuts to 50 ft-lbs.
e. Tighten the cradle plate bolts:
M14 at 123 ft-lbs
M12 at 80 ft-lbs.

Let mne know if this worked for you. Good Luck!!
Any other questions? Drop me a line on fixya.com!

Remove wheel
Remove axle nut
Remove outer tie rod nut
Leave outer tie rod nut on 3-4 threads
Hit spindle area where tie rod is mounted very hard with a large hammer (wear Saftey glasses)
The tie rod should loosen up and you remove it off spindle.
Remove lower ball joint nut
Leave nut on 3-4 threads
Hit spindle area where ball joint mounts (wear saftey glasses)
Carfully pry down the lower control arm too remove ball joint from arm.
Press in the axle towards the trans. out of the wheel bearing.
Place a piece of wood between the shock and inner fender to give yourself room to work.
Remove the three 15mm bolts that hold the wheel bearing on.
Hit wheel bearing out with hammer (wearing saftey glasses)
You may need to break a sweat on this part. Somtimes they are rusted in.
Be carfull not to damage the ABS sensor.

Reverse procedures to install

Item Part Number Description 1 Body mounting cup 2 Spring seat 3 Spring 4 Strut 5 Crossmember 6 Stabilizer bar 7 Front arm 8 Rear arm 9 Wheel spindle 10 Tie-bar 11 Dust cap 12 Brake drum 13 Hub retaining nut 14 Hub and bearing assembly 15 Backing plate 16 ABS sensor 17 Tie-bar mounting bracket

Lift the passenger side of vehicle. Remove tire/wheel assembly. Remove the axle nut. Remove the tie rod end nut. Smack the side of the housing the tie rod end goes into to pop the tie rod end loose and out. Remove the sway bar link. Remove the lower ball joint nut. Smack the housing the lower ball joint goes into to pop the ball joint loose. Pry the lower control arm down to pop the ball joint out. swivel the rotor and strut assembly to the side. Pop the axle out. Reassemble in the reverse order.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/


Item Part Number Description 1 — Cotter Pin 2 — Nut Retainer 3 1131 Insulator 4 3B477 Front Axle Wheel Hub Retainer 5 1195 Front Wheel Outer Bearing Retainer Washer 6 1104 Wheel Hub 7 1107 Lug Bolt 8 3K050 Snap Ring 9 3123 Front Wheel Bearing 10 2K004 Front Disc Brake Rotor Shield 11 3130 Front Wheel Knuckle

Wheel Hub, Wheel Knuckle and Wheel Bearing SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number Tie Rod End Separator T85M-3395-A
Removal

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
   
2. Remove the wheel (1007) and tire assembly.
   
3. NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect the front brake hose (2078).
   
   Remove the disc brake caliper (2B120) and suspend it with mechanic's wire out of the way. Refer to Section 06-03 for the removal procedure.
   
4. Remove the front disc brake rotor (1125).
   
5. Remove and discard the cotter pin.
   
6. Remove the nut retainer and insulator.
   
7. Remove the front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477) and the front wheel outer bearing retainer washer (1195).
   
   
   
   
   
8. Remove and discard the cotter pin from the front suspension lower arm ball joint (3050).
   
9. Loosen the front suspension lower arm ball joint nut until it contacts the front wheel driveshaft joint.
   
   
   
   
   
10. Strike the front wheel knuckle with a hammer while pulling down on the front suspension lower arm (3078) until the front suspension lower arm ball joint separates from the front wheel knuckle.
    
    
    
    
    
11. Remove the front suspension lower arm ball joint nut.
    
    
    
    
    
12. Remove the front suspension lower arm ball joint from the front wheel knuckle.
    
13. Remove and discard the cotter pin.
    
    
    
    
    
14. Remove the tie rod end nut.
    
    
    
    
    
15. Use Tie Rod End Separator T85M-3395-A to separate the tie rod end (3A130) from the front wheel knuckle.
    
    
    
    
    
16. Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor bolt.
    
    
    
    
    
17. Remove the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle nuts.
    
    
    
    
    
18. Remove the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle bolts.
    
19. Remove the front shock absorber (18124) from the front wheel knuckle.
    
20. Use 2-Jaw Puller D80L-1002-L, or equivalent, to separate the front wheel driveshaft and joint (3B436) from the front wheel knuckle.
    
21. Remove the front wheel hub, front wheel knuckle and front wheel bearing as an assembly from the vehicle.
22. If necessary, match mark and remove the steering stop bolt and steering stop bolt jam nut from the front wheel knuckle.
    
    
    
    
    

Installation

1. Position the front wheel hub, front wheel knuckle and front wheel bearing as an assembly on the front wheel driveshaft and joint.
   

1. Install the front wheel knuckle into the front shock absorber.
   

1. Install the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle bolts.
   

1. Install the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle nuts. Tighten the front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle nuts to 113-123 Nm (83-91 lb-ft).
   
   

Your description leads me to believe that the spindle is bent. This is the piece that the tie rod attaches to near the wheel. Sometimes the tie rod is attached to a piece that attaches to the spindle which is rather intuitive. Just remove the tie rod end, unbolt the arm that attaches to the spindle and replace the arm. In this case the only special tool you'll need is a tie rod seperator.

If the arm is a part of the spindle and cannot be removed easily:

1) Put vehicle in park and safety brake on - chock the rear wheels
2) Lift passenger side front wheel and put on jack stands
3) Remove wheel and have a friend apply brake pressure
4) Loosen hub nut with appropriate socket (22 to 35mm)
You can purchase the socket from your local auto parts store
You'll need a large breaker bar, its torqued to about 100ft-lbs
5) Remove tie rod end with a tie rod/ball joint separator
This can also be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Some spindles are made with tie rod end permanantly attached
If it is removable, remove nut and drive the separator tool
between the tie rod and spindle using a large hammer.
It'll eventually break free from the spindle.
6) Remove the strut with a strut spring compressor tool
WARNING - THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS
This can be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Compress spring before removing lower bolts (2 of them).
The strut may be left on vehicle but the spring must be
compressed.
7) Remove caliper and break assembly
Loosen the two slide bolts that go through the caliper assembly
Remove caliper and breaks - let it hang by the tubing
8) Detach upper and lower ball joints with seperator tool as in #5
9) Finally remove the hub nut from #4
The spindle should slide off the axle
10) Repair or replace the spindle and put it all back together in
reverse order using new wheel bearings. Pack them with axle
grease if theyr'e not the sealed type.

NOTE: The tie rod end may need to be replaced also. The vehicle will need a front end allignment. Be sure to torque the hub nut to the manufacturers specifications - at least 75ft-lbs. You should probably replace the wheel bearings.