Question about 1994 Acura Integra

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Got a 94 integra this kidd left the oil cap off now it has a real bad knocking i dont think its a rod cause i can turn the motor at the front with a socket what do you think it could be and is it worth it ?

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Being able to turn the engine just means that it is not seized up yet, but there can still be a spun rod bearing or crank bearing, and the engine will still turn over until it seizes up.

If the engine is full of engine oil and it is making a loud knocking sound, especially from the lower end of the engine (sounds like someone is swinging around a ball peen hammer inside of the engine), then it will most likely be needing a new engine very soon.

Posted on May 05, 2010


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If you know what to, look for. It is a job within itself to remove the oil pan on this vehicle as the front diff is in the way. Most knocks on these motors are rod bearing related and if the bearing is worn bad enough, the crankshaft journal will be damaged. Most likely an entire rebuild is in store to properly repair this issue.

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94 Honda passport has a small knock in the engine that would be a rod correct, if so how hard is it to fix and is it worth to buy a new motor or the vehicle in general knowing it has that knock any...

Most the time it's a rod bearing causing the rod to knock but there are also other things that could knock if you can drop the oil pan it's fairly easy to replace them but you also have to look at why it went out in the first place

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A knocking in your engine could be any thing from bad gas, lifter knock or a bad rod. If it is lifter knock you dont have a lot to worry about, but I would recommend that you check your oil level because if you are low on oil it can cause you engine to knock. Second if you are getting bad gas you can try adding a bottle of octane booster and see if that helps. Now lastly after you have checked the other to things I mentioned, and if they did not work you are most likely looking at a loose or worn rod, and there is no quick fix for that. The only way to fix that is to either overhaul your engine or have it replaced. I hope this helps answer your question, and I am sorry it took me so long to get back to you because I have not been on here for a few day. Good luck and if you have any other questions please feel free to ask.

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My car has a slight knocking sound coming from the lower portion of the engine, i think. It only does it when you hit the gas but not while cruising or in idle. However when the car is in park and i rev...

Sounds like the beginning of a rod/crank bearing problem. Clearances there are in the thousandths of an inch. At first, engine temp will cause clearances to close back up after it's warm but later on, clearances will become greater and this will become worse. Some shops will change your oil pump to increase pressure. This will not give anything but very short term relief as they are correcting the symptom, not the cause.

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This is a faulty or damaged oil pump and screen as well. replacing the oil pump and screen will fix this issue. i would do this asap. your rod bearings are suffering at this time.

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Jeep cherokee with a 4.0 6 cyl when a start the motor cold it sounds like a diesel engine, lots of clanking. last a couple of seconds then goes away. replaced oil pump. no help there.

Lots of clanking when first started sounds like a worn rod bearing. Check the engine compartment and rev engine to listen for knocking. It will get progressively worse as time goes by. Nothing to do except buy/install new crankshaft kit from autozone, about $300+.

In the mean time, just change oil and put in some oil additive to lessen the knocking. High speeds will accelerate the wear of the rod bearing. The rod bearing is installed inside of the piston rod. This bearing goes around the crankshaft. It has very tight tolerances down to the thousands of an inch. When it gets worn, metal will flake off of the soft bearing material and contaminate your oil more. If you catch it early enough, you can replace the bearing without too much trouble. Here is what you need to do.

Find the bad bearing. If you hear the knocking with the engine on and under the hood, disconnect a sparkplug. If the knocking goes away, that is the bad bearing. Do this disconnecting/reconnecting until you identify the bad bearings. Now disconnect battery. Next loosen drive belt- done from steering pump. Loosen 2-13mm bolts on back, one on top and one on bracket on bottom. On bottom right-hand side of pump will be a long adjusting bolt. Loosen turn this bolt counter clockwise to loosen drive belt. Now jack vehicle from the frame, vehicle will raise but tires will remain on ground. keep going as high as your jack will go. Install jack stands on frame. This extends your suspension and keep body raised. Drain oil, remove steering damper. It's the shock absorber looking thing connected to your tie rods/center link. The easiest way to remove the oil pan is to get a 3/8 inch socket adapter for a cordless drill. The bolts will come out in a hurry if you do this. Keep track of where the double sided bolts are, they secure the fuel line brackets. After all are removed, wiggle, tug, and pull pan out. Now you will see the large main caps and the rod caps. The mains are bolted to the block and the rods will rotate up and down with the spinning of the crankshaft. Spin the crankshaft to see. Each bearing cap needs to be marked. Use a center punch and hammer to mark from front to rear. 1 mark for rod cap 1 and so forth. You should end up with 6 marks on rod cap #6. Do the marking on the front side of the cap so you know how it fits back. Remove the rod caps that corresponded to the bad bearing identified earlier. Remove nut on cap. Wiggle cap back and forth until it comes loose. It will eventually come out. Inside the cap, you will see the bearing. It is basically a liner for the cap that rides on the crankshaft. there is one on the top of the rod too. Remove it by pushing rod up into cylinder and pulling it out with your hand. Ensure you remember the orientation of the bearings. One side has a notch, the other has a key that fits into a hole on the rod. Now you have the bearing in hand, check for scoring, or wearing on the face. Check the web for a nice color picture. Feel the crankshaft bearing area with your finger nail. It should be smooth and not ridged. Purchase some plastigage along with a standard .000 bearing. Clean rod surface, install new bearing and plastigage. Tighten to torque. Remove cap and measure plastigage for your oil clearance. Now you can purchase the correct bearing to match your oil clearance. If you don't have a repair manual, now's a good time to get it. It has bearing tolerances for you to get the correct bearing. After you have the correct bearings, use oil additive to grease up the new bearing/crank surfaces. Put everything back together, put some quality magnets inside of your oil pan near the drain hole and cross your fingers.

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3 Answers

Had oil changed on 6-2-08 and now have a knocking sound in the motor

Wrong oil filter. The one that was installed didn't have a anti-feed back valve in it. Most of the newer motors need that valve in the filter to keep oil from draining back into the eng oil pan.
Fast lube places don't stock the best of filters. Only their own or the cheapest ones. Not what the vechile makers call for. Get with your BBC or Consumer Agency to see what they say.

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