Question about 1994 GMC Suburban

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No power to starter-power to accessory panel and all else-wires on firewall burning-new starter, bench tested fine.Why?

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Sounds like a bad ground

Posted on May 05, 2010

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2 Answers

Is my starter bad? When trying to start I hear a single click. Voltmeter shows a drop from about 12V to 8-9V while turning. Starter motor gets really hot, load wires between battery and starter get so...


check to see if you can turn the engine over by hand it maybe siezed and not turn over.this can cause this type of starter problem and voltage drop.check all grounds from the battery to engine block and body under the hood,if you have a bad ground it can cause a similar type problem.

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I own a 2003 f-150 heritage edition The windows worked just fine this morning I go to role them up tonight they will not work. I checked every fuse none bad. They light up and locks and power mirror...


Check the power to the power window switch on the driver's side.

Std & SuperCab Engine compartment fuse panel, Fuse # 110 -> Accessory delay relay -> Light Blue w/ Black stripe wire.

If you do not have power at the light blue w/ black stripe wire with the key in the accy or run positions, next would be to pull the accessory delay relay from the cab fuse panel, and bench test it to make sure when power & ground are connected to the coil, that the normally open terminals close. Easy test, power & ground to terminal 85 & 86, ohm meter on terminals 30 & 87.

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If the accessory delay relay bench tests good, check for continuity on terminal 87 to the light blue w/ black stripe wire at the window switch.
Another easy route is to install a jumper in the relay socket ( with the relay removed ) as shown in the diagram above, red line. This should have power at the power windows regardless of the key position. If not, the fuse is not good or the wire is broken, most likely in the rubber boot from the a pillar to the driver's door.

Aug 22, 2011 | 2003 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

The truck started just fine but the idle had a very loud whining/grinding sound to it. In park, drive, and reverse the noise continued. once in drive the engine died after about 50ft and now it just clicks...


it sounds like your starter soleniod was stuck on ,the sound you heard was the starter being driven by the flywheel.you may have two starter solenoids one on the starter which looks like a chevy and you may have one on the firewall or fender closest to the battery.you can use a test light to find out which solenoid is not working.you may have to remove the start and bench test the starter.

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Put new (rebuilt) starter on last weekend, this weekend drove it for 3 hours, parked it, 4 hours later went out to go somewhere and not even a click, battery is good, headlights are on, battery cables are...


Bummer. Sometimes rebuilt starters are not actually rebuilt, but repaired. this means they fixed the issue, but did not replace bushings, brushes, etc...

try hooking up a wire to the actuater terminal of the starter (usually the small one at 2 o'clock position) and connect test light to it an ground the test light. Run this wire inside the cab so you can see it...When you turn to start, this light should light. Run vehicle until problem happens again and if the light illuminates, the focus is the starter, if it does not, you need to look at the entire circuit. Look carefully at neutral safety switch and connections..

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2 Answers

1998ford f150 starter won't crank or turn over.full charged battery.starter ingages when crossing small hot bolt with upper larger bolt.clicks with ignition.


First make sure you can turn engine over with a socket and that it is not seized. Second if engine checks out fine does the starter just click with the ignition key? If it does perform what is called a voltage drop test on the starter cables. Connect a volt meter on each end of the cable you are testing you should read no more that a half a volt drop when loading the circuit. If cables check out fine pull the starter and have it bench tested at an auto parts store. But be carefull bench testing can show a starter is ok with out putting a load on it, if it still shows good on the bench you still may need to replace it. If you don't get a click with the key check for 12 volts at the starter connector unplugged, if no trace starter wire noting color code back through the starter safety switch back to the ignition switch.

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1 Answer

1997 Ford E150 4.2L Start troubles


The transmission range sensor , park neutral safety switch . Is fuse #23 60 amp in the engine bay fuse block good ?

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1 Answer

1988 460 motorhome starting problem


When its hooked up, you should be able to put 12 volts on the little stud on the solenoid and it should start. One large stud will have 12 volts on it, so just jump it right there. Did you get the wires in the right place. The solenoid should have 1 large wire going down to the starter. Be sure the battery cables are clean and tight ( both ends) Check battery voltage when cranking, should go to 10-11 volts. Check voltage between negative terminal on battery and engine, should be ZERO when cranking. The solenoid has 2 large studs, make sure the battery positive wire and all the other wires are hooked to this stud, the other large stud should just have the wire going to the starter.

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Truck wont start, new battery, good fuses, bench tested starter they say its good, cables look ok.Turn ignition and dash lights come on can hear fan motor running.


test starter solinoid wire from harness, with a helper put test light on wire get friend to turn key to start, light should light up, wires at the bottom of engine may (look) fine

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