Question about Chrysler Neon

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My brake lights will not turn on. the blinkers and hazaeds work as well as the running lights what should I look for

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  • cizzi May 04, 2010

    I have a intermittent problem with the blinkers as well do you think that the blinker switch could be the problem?

  • cizzi May 04, 2010

    My brake lights are not working but the other lights are I changed the switch on the pedal no luck, but I do have an issue with my blinkers not staying on they will stopp blinking does the blinker mechanism have any bering on the brake lights they are connected

  • cizzi May 04, 2010

    Where would I find the wiring diagram on the internet?

    Thank you for all of your help?

    I changed the switch already and still a no go.

    I do have an intermittent problem the blinkers. They do not stay on all the time. Are the brake lights and the blinkers connected through the blinking mechanism in the steering column?

    Thanks Again

    cizzi@email.itt-tech.edu

  • cizzi May 04, 2010

    Thany So much for your help you are a wizzzzzz.

  • cizzi May 04, 2010

    This is the best discription/ diagnoses I have ever had in my life this man is great.
    Thank you
    Thank you
    Thank you
    Thank you

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  • Chrysler Master
  • 75,744 Answers

Most likely there is a problem with the brake light switch, the switch is located above the brake pedal under the dash, here is how u check it out and get the lights working again.
Let's go through an open circuit in the brake lights. The brake lights are always hot, this means 12 volts is always present, that is to say they are powered all the time, key on, off or in your pocket. The best way to troubleshoot an open is from the battery back. In the typical brake light circuit power goes from the battery to the fuse box to the brake light switch to the bulb and then to ground. Take the test light and put the clip on the negative battery terminal and touch the point to the positive battery terminal. This does two things, it checks the battery for voltage and it insures your test light is working properly. There's nothing worse then the feeling you get after spending an hour looking for a problem and finding out the bulb in your test light is burnt out.
Next you check the fuse. The fuse box is usually marked with the fuse amperage and the circuit. For example, Brake lights 10 amps. If the fuse box is not marked, it will be in your owners' manual. Clip the test light to a good ground and touch the point to each side of the fuse. If the light lights on both sides, then the fuse is good. If it doesn't, then the fuse is bad. Replace it before you continue. If neither side lights up, you have an open between the battery and the fuse box. Repair the wire before you continue. Now by looking at the wiring diagram we see from the fuse box it goes to the brake light switch. The brake light switch is a simple on-off switch. When the brake pedal is up, the switch is open. When the brake pedal is down, it closes, completing the circuit. Touch the test light to both terminals of the brake light switch, one side will be hot and the other side will not. If both sides are hot then the switch is not opening and the brake lights are on all the time. As with the fuse, if neither side lights, you have a broken wire between the switch and the fuse. Repair the wire before you continue.
Now push the brake pedal down and touch both sides. Both sides should be hot. If they aren't, the brake light switch is not closing and is no good. You'll need to replace the switch before you go on testing. Looking at the wiring diagram we see the wire goes from the brake light switch to a connector in the back of the car. Go back there and locate the connector and unplug it. Now you see there are 5 wires in that connector. Which one is the brake light wire? Looking at the wiring diagram tells us that the blue wire is the brake light wire. So touch the test light to the blue wire and if it lights, you have power to that point. If it doesn't, then you have an open between that connector and the brake light switch. Repair the break before continuing.
Now we see it goes from that connector to the brake light bulb socket. Take the bulb out and touch the contact inside the socket with the test light. If it lights, then you have power up to that point. Put the bulb back into the socket and from the back, pierce the black (Most automakers use black for the ground wire. German automakers use brown for ground.) If the wire is hot, then the bulb is good. If not then replace the bulb before you continue.
Now by looking at the wiring diagram we see that this black wire goes to ground. Skin a little insulation off and connect a jumper wire from there to a good ground. If the brake light lights, then you have a bad ground. Repair the ground wire. Now you have tested the whole brake light system.
This is a simple circuit to troubleshoot, but the troubleshooting technique is applicable to any circuit. A circuit may branch off here and there, but if you look at each section and test it as you go along, you will find the problem fairly quickly and easily.

Posted on May 04, 2010

  • yadayada
    yadayada May 04, 2010

    and there was 12 volts power at the brake light switch?? which i gave u detailed instructions on testing, if so then the turn signal switch is defective, the brake lights run through the turn signal as well.

  • yadayada
    yadayada May 04, 2010

    there are no diagrams on the internet, that comes only in factory service manual which i have checked, the turn signal switch is the problem if the brake light switch has power.

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  • Master
  • 755 Answers

Look under the dash at the switch that the brake pedal uses to send power to the brake lights. You can get a multitester and make sure the switch has power and you can also jump the switch and see if the lights come on! If you can short it...you probably need a new switch. If you have power but shorting doesnt work. You most likely have a short in the line running back to the lights.

The most common problem would be the switch since it mechanical.

Good luck and be careful!

Posted on May 04, 2010

  • john andrew manchook May 05, 2010

    You changed the brake pedal switch and no joy eh?



    Ok. Is there power to this switch? I am thinking there is since you haven't mentioned looking forward of the switch.



    You can use the multitester *(set for DC voltage 20 V max) and go back to rear of the car and pull one of the brake light bulbs. You can then use the bulbs socket to test for power. This test will be to see if you lost your ground connection.


    Take the multitester and put one end in or on a contact and touch the other lead to body ground. This might be difficult with all the plastic back there but find something metal that you know is attached to the body. Check both contacts with the brake pedal pressed to see if you have voltage this way. If you have voltage the next thing you would do is check the contact that didnt have power for proper grounding. You can use the multitester on continuity check *(it usually beeps or emits a tone when the leads are touched together) and see if the ground contact and body ground are connected.



    No power but good ground? If you have power at the switch and nothing back at the bulb socket you have a break in the wiring somewhere in between most likely. You can get a diagram for your car either at the local library in the manuals section or pick up a service manual at your local auto parts store.



    Keep me posted and thanks!

  • john andrew manchook May 05, 2010

    OH! And if you blinkers are getting lazy you either have low voltage *(weak battery?) bad contact at the blinker relay or a failing/needy relay! Relays for the blinkers are cheap and the auto parts store can get you what you need *(Autozone even has online instructions for registered users with diagrams!).



    Thanks again,

    John

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