Question about Volkswagen Golf

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Unable to remove strut with lower arm in place and driveshaft connected to hub.Ifollowed Haynes Golf manual procedure but found space too tight to remove strut even with spring compressed.Eventually succeded in removing strut but at the expense of a damaged gaiter on the driveshaft CV joint.There has to be an easier way. Ifound it extremely difficult to pull the bottom of the wheelbearing housing outwards as per manual and refitting the balljoint to the lower arm now looks impossible

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The swaybar is still giving you tension. The link has to be disconnected to the control arm. You need to disconnect the balljoint for the tie rod. Before removing the lower ball joint from the hub assembly, mark with a punch for reference when putting it back. There is no need to remove the center nut for CV joint unless it is the original strut which is longer when in static position. Note; DO NOT roll vehicle on the ground without a CV joint connected to the hub, wheel bearing will be crushed from vehicle weight.

You can use a 1/4" extension end placed on the slot to spread the strut carrier wide enough to release the strut from the carrier.

Posted on May 04, 2010

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1 Answer

How do you replace the lower ball joints on a 2000 windstar?


According to Autozone.com, you must replace the whole control arm. Here is their procedure:
NOTE do not begin the removal procedure unless a new strut-to-lower arm nut, a new ball joint pinch bolt/nut and a new lower arm-to-front subframe bolt/nut are available.

  1. Remove or disconnect the following:
    NOTE
    Do not use a hammer to separate the ball joint from the front wheel hub and spindle.



    WheelsLower arm strut nut and dished washer. Discard them.
  2. Place the steering wheel in the unlocked position.
    NOTE
    Do not allow the halfshaft to move outward. Over-extension of the halfshaft joint could result in separation of internal parts, causing failure of the halfshaft joint.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    NOTE
    Use extreme care to not damage the ball joint boot seal.



    Lower arm ball joint nut and pinch bolt. Discard them.Lower arm from the front wheel knuckle



    Remove and discard the lower arm-to-front subframe bolt and nutRemove the lower arm from the vehicleTo install:
    1. Install or connect the following:

      Lower arm strut into the lower arm rear strut bushingLower arm into the front sub-frame bracketNew lower arm-to-front subframe nut and bolt. While holding the lower arm horizontal, tighten to 85-97 ft. lbs. (115-132 Nm).Ball joint stud-to-wheel hub and spindle, making sure that the ball stud groove is properly positioned.New lower arm ball joint pinch bolt and nut. Tighten to 46-52 ft. lbs. 62-71 Nm).
    2. Clean the lower arm strut threads to remove dirt and contamination.
    3. Install the dished washer with the dished side away from the lower arm rear strut bushing.
    4. Install the front suspension lower arm strut-to-strut nut and tighten to 85-97 ft. lbs. (115-142 Nm).
    5. Install the wheels.
    6. Lower the vehicle.

Jun 12, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to replace a front axle on a 2002 freelander landrover


1. Remove hub centre disc and remove hub nut with wheel on ground.

2. Jack up affected side (not under lower control arm), remove wheel.

3. Remove two caliper bracket bolts and tie caliper up out of the way.

4. Disconnect outer steering joint.

5. Remove two strut-to-hub bolts and pivot hub outwards to release driveshaft outer drive flange.

6. Place oil catch can under car and carefully pry out inner driveshaft joint and remove driveshaft.

7. Reverse steps with new driveshaft. Remember to replace any lost gearbox / transfer box oil.

Apr 23, 2015 | 2002 Land Rover Freelander

1 Answer

Driver side lower control arm how do i install new one


  1. Raise and support the vehicle with safety stands. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
  2. Remove the tire and the wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Wheels, Tires and Alignment.
  3. Unload the torsion bar. Refer to Torsion Bar and Support Assembly Replacement
  4. Remove the wheel driveshaft nut and washer.
  1. Disengage the wheel driveshaft from the wheel hub and bearing assembly. Place a brass drift against the outer end of the wheel driveshaft in order to protect the wheel driveshaft threads. Sharply strike the brass drift with a hammer. Do not attempt to remove the wheel driveshaft from the wheel hub and bearing assembly at this time.
  2. Remove the stabilizer shaft. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Replacement (RWD) or Stabilizer Shaft Replacement (4WD).
  3. Remove the shock absorber. Refer to Shock Absorber Replacement (RWD) or Shock Absorber Replacement (4WD).
85105731
  1. Remove the nuts and bolts securing the lower control arm to the crossmember and the frame bracket.
  2. Remove the lower ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Refer to Lower Ball Joint Replacement (RWD) or Lower Ball Joint Replacement (4WD).
  3. Remove the lower control arm from the frame.






have fun and be careful wear always lens and gloves

Oct 21, 2010 | 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada

2 Answers

How do you remove the front axle to get the engine and transmission out


This is a generalised approach for most front wheel drive vehicles.
The front suspension strut needs to be unbolted from the control arm before the driveshaft can be removed.
First off, loosen the driveshaft nut(large nut in the centre of the wheel). These are very tight and usually require at least a 30 or 32mm deep wall socket with a torque wrench to remove. You will probably need some help as the car will move as soon as you put force on that nut. Best solution is have someone step on the brakes or put the car in top gear with the parking brake engaged.(This will not work on an automatic)
With the driveshaft nuts removed put the vehicle on axle stands so that the front wheels are clear off the ground. Do not use 2 jacks or bricks to do this. Be sure to chock the rear wheels and engage the parking brake.
Remove the front wheels. If you forgot to loosen the wheel nuts before jacking the car up, once again have your unfortunate assistant step on the brakes so you can loosen them.
Have a look at the lower control arm (Sort of a triangular shaped arm between the body of the car and the hub carrier. It connects to the hub carrier by way of a ball joint. If you're lucky the ball joint will be bolted to the control arm which is easy to remove, else it has to be undone by way of the single bolt on the hub carrier. The ball joint is difficult to remove at this point and needs a special tool to force it out of its seat. Hammering is definately not recommended and levering against the CV joint can cause damage to the CV.
Once done the hub carrier can be pulled away from the car to give you the free space to pull the outer end of the driveshaft out of the hub carrier. The inner end of the driveshaft clips into the gearbox and can be pulled or levered out with some effort.(hopefully the gearbox has been drained before this point as there may be some spillage of gearbox fluid/oil as soon as the shaft is removed from the gearbox).) Once the drive shafts are free the engine/gearbox combination can be removed. Reassembly is the reverse of removal, but remember to torque the driveshaft nut to the correct setting with a torque wrench. After reassembly have the wheel alignment set.
Hopefully I dont step on any copyright toes. Below is from a Haynes workshop manual.
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May 30, 2010 | 1999 Honda Accord

1 Answer

I used a Haynes VW Golf manual to renew a front suspension coil spring on my 2003 Seat Leon but found removal of the strut almost impossible with the lower arm in position.I have now managed to damage the...


Disconnect the front sway bar linkage from the control arm. Disconnect the steering ball joint and lower control arm ball joint then and only then you will have elbow room work around once you have removed the axle nut from the CV joint. Sorry no short cut for this procedure, some even disconnect the control arm from the car to persuade the removal.

May 04, 2010 | 2003 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

How do you get the wheel bearing off a 1996 saab 900


assuming its a front one disconnect lower arm by undoing ball joint bolt remove brake caliper and disc disconnect hub from strut undo driveshaft nut and remove driveshaft u then split hub by pushing centre iut with a press,once split push bearing out with press then push new bearing in and refit everything the same way u removed it

Apr 14, 2010 | 1996 Saab 900

1 Answer

Replacing a front wheel bearing


here is a step by step instructions on how to replace your bearing. please copy and paste the link into your browser for an image.

please do not forget to rate and comment about your experience with fixya today.

Removal & Installation
  1. Apply the brakes and hold in place.
  2. Raise the vehicle.
  3. Remove the front tire and wheel assembly.
  4. Remove the cotter pin, lock nut and spring washer from the hub nut.
  5. While the brakes are applied, loosen and remove the hub nut on the end of the driveshaft.
  6. Release the brakes.
  7. Remove the front disc brake caliper and adapter as an assembly, and the brake rotor from the steering knuckle.
  8. Remove the nut attaching the outer tie rod to the steering knuckle. To do this, hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while loosening and removing the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench.
  9. Remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB991113.
  10. Remove the tie rod heat shield.
  11. Remove the nut and pinch bolt clamping the ball joint stud to the steering knuckle.

    CAUTION The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during removal. Hold the bolts stationary in the steering knuckles while removing the nuts, then tap the bolts out using a pin punch.
  12. Remove the two bolts attaching the strut to the steering knuckle.

    NOTE Use caution when separating the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle, so the ball joint seal does not get cut.
  13. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle by prying down on lower control arm and up against the ball joint boss on the steering knuckle.

    NOTE Do not allow the driveshaft to hang by the inner C/V joint; it must be supported to keep the joint from separating during this operation.
  14. Pull the steering knuckle off the driveshaft outer C/V joint splines and remove the steering knuckle.

    NOTE The cartridge type front wheel bearing used on this vehicle is not transferable to the replacement steering knuckle. If the replacement steering knuckle does not come with a wheel bearing, a new bearing must be installed in the steering knuckle. Installation of the new wheel bearing and hub must be done before installing the steering knuckle on the vehicle.
  15. If the wheel bearing and hub need removal. Do not reuse the wheel bearing.
    http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/content/images/32050/images/32050_ptcr_g0035.gif The separation of the ball joint and the knuckle
To install:
  1. Slide the hub of the steering knuckle onto the splines on the driveshaft C/V joint.
  2. Install the steering knuckle onto the ball joint stud aligning the bolt hole in the knuckle boss with the notch formed in the side of the ball joint stud.
  3. Install a new ball joint stud pinch bolt and nut. Tighten the nut to a torque of 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).

    CAUTION The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during installation. Install the nuts while holding the bolts stationary in the steering knuckle.
  4. Position the lower end of the strut assembly in line with the upper end of the steering knuckle and align the mounting holes . Install the two attaching bolts. The bolts should be installed with so that the nuts face towards the front of the vehicle once installed. Install the nuts. Holding the bolts in place tighten the nuts to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (53 Nm) plus an additional 90° turn after the specified torque is met.
  5. Place the tie rod heat shield on the steering knuckle arm so that the shield is positioned straight away from the steering gear and tie rod end once installed. Align the hole in the shield with the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Install the outer tie rod ball stud into the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Start the tie rod attaching nut onto the stud. Hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while tightening the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench. To fully tighten the nut to specifications, use a crowfoot wrench on a torque wrench to turn the nut, and a wrench on the stud.
  6. Tighten the nut to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). Install the brake rotor, disc brake caliper and adapter.
  7. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the driveshaft outer C/V joint. Install the hub nut in the end of the driveshaft and snug it.
  8. Have a helper apply the brakes. With vehicle brakes applied to keep brake rotor and hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm)
  9. Install the spring washer, lock nut and cotter pin on the hub nut. Wrap the cotter pin ends tightly around the lock nut.
  10. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Install the wheel mounting nuts and tighten them to a torque of 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
  11. Lower the vehicle.
  12. Set the front toe on the vehicle to required specification.

Apr 17, 2009 | 2003 Chrysler PT Cruiser

3 Answers

Replace outer cv boot mazda 323 1985


NO - Here are the steps involved....

Raise the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Drain the lubricant from the transaxle.
  1. Remove the front wheels and splash pan. Raise the tab on the wheel hub locknut, and then have someone apply the brakes as you loosen the nut.
  2. Remove the tow nuts, bushings, and washers, then disconnect the stabilizer bar from the steering knuckle.
  3. Remove the clinch bolts and nuts, then pry the lower control arm downward in order to separate the steering knuckle and lower ball joint. Be careful not to damage the ball joint dust cover.

On the left side:
  1. Insert a lever (for automatic transaxles, you'll have to use a chisel) between the driveshaft and transaxle case (don't go in too for, or you will damage the seal). Tap the end of the pry bar or chisel lightly to pull the shaft out of the case just until it unlocks.
  1. Remove the driveshaft locknut from the center of the brake rotor. Pull the front hub outward and toward the rear. Disconnect the driveshaft from the wheel hub. If necessary, use a puller. Then, pull the driveshaft straight out of the transaxle, supporting the joint on the transaxle side to prevent damage to the seal. Seal the transaxle opening with a clean rag.

On the right side:
  1. Insert a lever between the joint shaft and driveshaft, then gently tap on the outer end of the lever to separate the two shafts.
  1. Remove the driveshaft locknut, then pull the front hub outward and toward the rear. Disconnect the driveshaft from the front hub. If necessary, use a puller. Then, disconnect the driveshaft from the cross-shaft completely.
  2. If it is necessary to remove the cross-shaft, remove the cross-shaft mounting bracket bolts, then remove the shaft and bracket as an assembly, being careful not to disturb the position of differential gears. Cover the opening in the differential case with a clean rag.
    1. Installation is the reverse of removal, but note these points:
    1. Check the transaxle oil seal for damage and replace it if necessary.
    2. Replace the clips at the inner ends of the driveshaft or cross-shaft where they are locked into the differential gears in the transaxle.
    3. Install the shafts into the transaxle carefully to avoid damage to the oil seal. Push the joint in on the differential side. Check the differential gears for alignment before attempting to install the shafts. If they are not aligned, turn them with your finger, as necessary.
    4. After installation, pull the hub forward to make sure the driveshaft remains locked in the transaxle.
    5. Install a new locknut onto the outer end of the driveshaft, adjusting wheel bearings as described in . Crimp the tabs over after they are aligned with the groove in the driveshaft.
    6. Tighten the stabilizer bar link nut until 1 in. (25mm) of thread is exposed.
    7. Torque the lower control arm-to-ball joint nut and bolt to 32-40 ft. lbs. (43-54 Nm).
    8. Torque the control link for the lower arm and stabilizer bar to 9-13 ft. lbs. (12-18 Nm); except for the 1988-89 626s and MX-6s on which it should be 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm).
    9. Refill the differential with fresh fluid meeting proper specifications.
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    Apr 10, 2009 | 1986 Mazda 323

    1 Answer

    I need step by step instructions to replace front struts.


    1.Turn ignition to OFF position to place steering column in unlocked position.
    2.Remove hub nut
    3.Loosen, but do not remove, three top mount-to-shock tower
    4.Raise vehicle on a hoist.
    5.Remove tire and wheel assembly
    6.Move brake caliper and wire out of the way
    7.Remove brake rotor
    8.Remove cotter pin from tie rod end stud and remove slotted nut.
    Discard cotter pin and nut
    9.remove tie rod from knuckle
    10.Remove stabilizer bar link nut, and remove link from strut
    11.Remove and discard lower arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut. (A drift punch may be used to remove bolt.) Using a screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-lower arm pinch joint and remove lower arm from steering knuckle.
    12.Press halfshaft from hub
    13.Remove shock absorber strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Using a large screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-strut pinch joint, if required, for removal
    14.Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly from shock absorber strut
    15.Remove three top mount-to-shock tower nuts and remove strut and spring assembly from vehicle
    16.Compress spring with Spring Compressor
    17.Place 10mm box-end wrench on top of shock strut shaft and hold while removing top shaft retaining nut with a 21mm 6-point crow foot wrench and ratchet
    18.Loosen Spring Compressor , then remove top mount bracket assembly, bearing plate assembly and spring.
    INSTALLATION
    1.Place a 10mm box-end wrench on top of shock strut shaft and hold while tightening top shaft retaining nut with a 21mm 6-point crow foot wrench and ratchet to 53-72 Nm (40-53 lb-ft).
    2.Install strut and spring assembly and three top mount-to-shock tower nuts
    3.Install steering knuckle and hub assembly to shock absorber strut.
    4.Install a new shock absorber strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Tighten to 98-132 Nm (73-97 lb-ft).
    5.Install halfshaft into hub
    6.Install lower arm to steering knuckle ensuring that ball stud groove is properly positioned and boot seal is not damaged. Install a new pinch bolt and nut. Tighten to 53-72 Nm (40-53 lb-ft).
    7.Install stabilizer bar link to strut and install a new stabilizer bar link nut. Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 lb-ft).
    8.Install tie rod end onto knuckle.
    9.Install a new tie rod end slotted nut. Tighten to 31-47Nm (23-34 lb-ft).
    10.Install a new slotted nut retaining cotter pin.
    11.Install brake rotor
    12.Install brake caliper
    13.Install tire and wheel assembly
    14.Tighten three top mount-to-shock tower nuts to 30-40Nm (23-29 lb-ft).
    15.Lower vehicle and tighten hub nut to 230-275 Nm (170-202 lb-ft)
    16.Depress brake pedal several times prior to moving vehicle.

    Hope this helps. Good luck !

    Mar 14, 2009 | 1992 Ford Taurus

    1 Answer

    Remove rear bearing 1992 xj6 jaguar


    what do you need to do? to remove the whole hub you need to undo the nut in the centre of the hub, support the car on stands on the subframe and remove the roadwheel, loosen and slide out the bolt holding the hub to the lower arm and tap the centre shaft out with a copper hammer (it should not be too tight) the long bolt has seals and shims in the hub, keep them in the same place. You can usually get a Haynes manual from the library, it will be a big help

    Feb 27, 2009 | 1992 Jaguar XJ6

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