Question about 1998 GMC Suburban

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Transmission line...need to find out about the clips that hold the transmission line, how to reattach the clips

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These are commonly called "quick release fittings". pull back the retainer,insert the end of the line into the fitting,and push the retainer back into place.
The little clip that comes with it,can be installed into the retaining slot with a pair of snap ring pliers,or like i do,place one end in the slot,and push the other end with a screwdriver till it snaps into place.

The strange thing iI found with these things is that they seem loose,until you start your truck,and the pressure build up. After that they stay super tight.

Posted on May 04, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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My 2000 ford explora wont shift into park, i have to leave it in reverse to get the key out and put the Ebrake on and shut it off. when i put the car in drive it goes all the way to the number 1, can you...


The shift linkage is out of adjustment.

The cable bolt may be loose up at the column, the column itself may be loose enough to allow it to shift position as well.

Make sure column is securely mounted, If not- tighten the 4 bolts that hold it to the dash support so it is. if it is, crawl under driver's side and on the transmission is a bracket where the cable assembly comes into it, and from there a rod that attaches on the lever on the side of the transmission. Make sure the bracket is not damaged or cracked first- if it is, replace it. There is a captive clip to release on the wide part of the piece that the bracket holds, it does not come out fully, but it will release the cable housing so you can slide it to adjust it. With the column shift in Park position, note where the rod is at the transmission. Also make note if the bracket is in line with transmission. If bracket is in line, pull the lever rearward one notch/detent that you will feel engage the lever- this moves the transmission lever to neutral, then with firm pressure push lever forward so you feel 2 distinct notches/detents forward, the lever is now in park. Push locking clip back into position once you confirm the cable outer housing is squarely seated into bracket opening and is soundly clipped into the square opening of the bracket.

If the lever will not move to that second detent or you did not feel it, you will need to check by putting the column shift to first gear position, release the connection to the lever on the transmission just to verify location of lever, and verify the lever is indeed in first gear- the lever on the transmission will move no further- then count detents forward from the rear stop. you should end up in park, and you may hear the parking pawl engage the output shaft of transmission. move lever back to the rear to the stop, reattach the connection to the cable, put column in park, release the clip again and verify the lever is as far forward as it is going to move. Push clip into lock position.

Start Explorer, with foot on brake pedal, release the emergency/parking brake and see if the vehicle moves, or if it is truly in park. It should be in park.

If you encounter some dificulty with getting the column shift lever itself moved over to park- apply brake pedal to release the park interlock mechanism.

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they are a type of quick connect fitting. There is a special tool just for these types of fittings. If you remove the plastic cover that goes over the fitting you will see a metal clip in a groove. You can use a small pick to carefully remove the clip (they go flyin and get lost easily but they are available from your local GM dealer or parts store). Once the clip is removed you will be able to pull the line out of the radiator/transmission fitting.

Reinstall the clip after you remove the line. The new line will slide in and click into place.

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Changing a transmission in a 1989 Buick Electra Park Avenue


Transmission REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Open the hood and place protectors on the fenders. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
  2. Disconnect the detent cable at its upper end.
  3. Remove the transmission oil dipstick, and the bolt holding the dipstick tube if it is accessible.
  4. Raise the vehicle and safety support it with jackstands. NOTE: If a floor pan reinforcement is used, remove it if it interferes with driveshaft removal or installation.
  5. Disconnect the speedometer cable at the transmission.
  6. Disconnect the shift linkage at the transmission.
  7. Disconnect all electrical leads at the transmission and any clips that hold these leads to the transmission case.
  8. Remove the flywheel cover and matchmark the flywheel and torque converter for later assembly.
  9. Remove the torque converter-to-flywheel bolts and/or nuts.
  10. On gasoline engine vehicles, disconnect the catalytic converter support bracket.
  11. Remove the transmission support-to-transmission mount bolt and transmission support-to-frame bolts, and any insulators (if used).
  12. Position a transmission jack under the transmission and raise it slightly.
  13. Slide the transmission support rearward.
  14. Loosen the transmission enough to gain access to the oil cooler lines and detent cable attachments.
  15. Disconnect the oil cooler lines and detent cable. Plug all openings.
  16. Support the engine and remove the engine-to-transmission bolts.
  17. Disconnect the transmission assembly, being careful not to damage any cables, lines or linkage.
  18. Install a C-clamp or torque converter holding tool onto the transmission housing to hold the converter in the housing. Remove the transmission assembly from the vehicle (a hydraulic floor jack is best for this). To install: Fig. 1: Transmission oil cooler lines 85847023.gif

  19. Install the transmission assembly into the vehicle (a hydraulic floor jack is best for this). When installing the flex plate-to-converter bolts, make sure that the weld nuts on the converter are flush with the flex plate and that the converter rotates freely by hand. Coat the threads with thread locking compound, hand-start the three bolts, tighten them finger tight and torque them evenly to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm).
  20. Support the engine and install the engine-to-transmission bolts. Torque the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  21. Connect the oil cooler lines and detent cable.
  22. Slide the transmission support forward.
  23. Position a transmission jack under the transmission and raise it slightly.
  24. Install the transmission support-to-transmission mount bolt and transmission support-to-frame bolts, and any insulators (if used).
  25. On gasoline engine vehicles, connect the catalytic converter support bracket.
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  27. Connect all electrical leads to the transmission and any clips that hold these leads to the transmission case.
  28. Connect the shift linkage at the transmission.
  29. Connect the speedometer cable at the transmission.
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  31. Lower the vehicle safely.
  32. Install the transmission oil dipstick, and the bolt holding the dipstick tube if it is accessible.
  33. Connect the detent cable at its upper end.
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  35. Install the air cleaner assembly. Refill the transmission with fluid as outlined in the "Oil Pan'' section in this chapter.
  36. Start the vehicle and check operation. prev.gif next.gif

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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