Timing belt tensioner broke replaced all valves, guides, springs. timing belt, tensioner, idler cycled key to get fuel up cranked would not fire wait car started run with low idle stalled after 8 minutes would not restart waited 15 minutes car started had to keep foot on throtle to keep running let foot off car stalled would not restart removed timing covers to rechec timing marks all marks lined up
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The pistons, valves and cylinder walls typically take a beating when the timing belt breaks. If yours didn't, I'm amazed.
But you can TRY this: For most OHV engines with a timing belt there is usually a hole in the camshaft sprocket that can align with a hole in the head. If there are two camshafts, each sprocket typically has the same arrangement. Look closely, if there is no hole, there will be a mark of some kind to indicate #1 Top Dead Center. Make certain that the crankshaft and the camshaft(s) are all at #1 TDC, if there are holes in the sprocket(s), push an appropriately sized drill bit through the hole, into the corresponding hole in the head to hold the camshaft timing, then replace the belt, making certain that any idler pulleys or tension adjuster pulleys are out of the way. After you've put the new belt on, Put the idler pulleys and tension adjusters back into their appropriate place then remove whatever you used to hold the pulleys in place. Most of the time a valve will "kiss" a piston when the timing belt breaks. That causes immediate and fatal damage to the engine requiring (at minimum) a complete engine rebuild. Sometimes valve seats, pistons, cylinder walls and other components are destroyed when the piston and valve collide.
Daewoo has interference engines in them, so if the timing belt broke while the engine was running, you will need to replace half of the valves which were bent when the pistons crashed into them when the cams stopped turning and the crank shaft continued to turn. Minimum of $700-1000.00 (usually more). If you do it all yourself and the valve guides are not damaged, still at least $400.00 worth of parts to fix. Pull plastic air dams around bottom of engine on front and right side . Support engine with jack. Drain antifreeze from engine and radiator. remove air filter housing and serpentine belt. remove front engine mount. remove cam belt cover. remove broken cam belt and check cam tensioner bearings and idler bearing as well. They are usually bad. Then remove spark plug cover. Remove valve cover. Remove intake from head. remove coil from head. remove heat shield from exhaust manifold then remove manifold from exhaust and from head. remove water hoses and connecting assemblies from side of head and rear of head. remove Cam shaft bearing caps loosening them all evenly so as not to bend cams. remove cams. remove head bolts. remove head. remove valve hydraulic lifters, compress valve springs and remove valve retainers and dissassemble valves. Clean everything very well. Make sure head is not damaged. Remove valve guide seals. install new valve guide seals, new valves. Seat valves with valve grinding compound. clean well. instal valves in reverse order of dissasembly. Before putting head on, make sure number 1 cylinder is at top dead center position. install head using proper torque of 18 ft # in a spiral application rotation from the center outward in a clockwise direction. Then do spiral rotation again tightening bolts each one-quarter turn. Repeat the tightening process two more times only turning the bolts one-quarter turn each time. Use new head bolts. They are designed to stretch in the process of installation and are not to be re-used. Align cams to proper orientation then bolt into place. do not overtorque cam bearing cap bolts. Less than 5 ft # of torque can stretch these bolts. Snug them then tighten them 90 degrees. Then tighten them another 90 degrees (quarter turn). Snug them all then go back and tighten all of them a quater turn, then go back and tighten all of them another quarter turn. Install the cam idler and tensioner and install the cam belt. then install the intake, exhaust and all other items in reverse order of assembly. Do not turn engine over unless you are sure you have the cam belt on with the crank shaft pulley aligned at top dead center and the intake and exhauste pulley marks aligned to their proper marks with the cam belt properly tensioned. You can't be even one tooth off. This must be right before you turn the engine over! Remove spark plugs and turn engine over by hand two rotation clockwise using a wrench on the center bolt of the crank shaft pulley. Check that the timing of cams is still perfect. If not, correct, retension cam belt, double check timing positions again then rotate engine two revolutions. Check cam timing positions again. The timing should not change! The engine should turn over relatively easily. If it feels like it doesn't want to turn, don't force it. You may have the timing off and be pressing a piston against a valve. If you are at this point, then you need to remove cam belt and unbolt cam shafts to release all tension on any of the valves. return the number one cylinder to top dead center position and then reinstall the cams and cam belt. Once it is assembled and in time, then reattatch the rest of the components that were removed in dissassembly. Do this in reverse order of dissassembly. then connect battery and fill radiator fluid. Start car.
If your timing belt broke, then it is possible that the valves in your engine got bent, which won't allow the cylinders to pressurize the fuel/air mixture, and it will let all of the mix to flow freely into the intake/exhaust manifold. This can be checked with a pressure tester that is threaded into the spark plug opening. A mechanic should have one, or you can probably find one at an auto parts store.