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Is there a fuse for the fuel guage? - 2005 Chevrolet Cavalier

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No....the fuel gage sensor in the fuel tank has probably broken...some cars you can simply replace the sensor, but on most you have to replace the fuel tank.

Posted on May 03, 2010

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  • Chevrolet Master
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There is not specific FUSE for fuel gauge; check other components.This is so typical. Many gas gauges don’t work for simple reasons. In would strongly suggest you read this whole document before proceeding. You may want to attack this problem in a different way. Please bear with us. This is a very difficult thing to write. Just a note. Our cars are usually **** pretty well by the time we get them. Make sure your wiring under the dash is in good shape. If it’s not, I would suggest you start there. Having seen some of these chimpanzees at work, you’re liable to find anything under there. Maybe the problem. Most people are apprehensive with auto wiring. It is really quite simple and you can’t get hurt with it. Just remember your body is the ground, and the wires carry the voltage. BUT! There are a few ground wires under the dash too. So be careful when you splice something. Here are the components: Gauge assembly Sending Unit Wiring from fuel tank to dashboard. Dash wiring. Voltage Limiter (Regulator) There are FOUR of the most common problems. 1. Defective Dash Voltage regulator (Voltage limiter) or gauge 2. Lost of a ground at the sending unit 3. Break in the wire going to the dash 4. On some Chryslers, the Bulkhead connector on the firewall or connector behind kick panel. Less Common 1. Actual bad Sending Unit 2. Fuel Gauge defective Tools needed for the basics: Alligator Clip jumper (Make sure it works) Test light probe Radio Shack or equal Multi-meter If removing the gauge cluster, you will need a socket set, a couple of #2 Phillips screw drives and a pair of needle nose. Gas Gauge and Temp gauge doesn’t work. (Reason #1) Let’s ask a simple question here. Does the temp gauge work too? Both the Temp gauge and the fuel gauge use a voltage limiter. Given the way these cares were built, it is hard to get too get to that. But before we dig into this, check the fuse for the instruments. That fuse feeds the voltage limiter. In time, voltage limiters tend to go bad. If one burned out, it may have blown the fuse. Which in a way is a good thing. If the fuse is good and the temp and Fuel don’t work, then chances are it’s one of two things. Lost the ground or the limiter is bad. After you are sure the fuse is good, (Check it with the Key ON), we can go for the checking for a ground to the cluster. If your cluster is back lit, and the dash lights work, chances are you have a good ground to the dash. If it’s front lit like the Mopars of the early 70’s, then we need to check the ground. If you have any lights on the dash, oil light (Idiot Light) turn signal indicator and they work, then a ground is established. If all these things are good, then you have to go for the voltage limiter. This is where the fun starts. Depending on your brail skills, you should be able to at least find it on the back of the cluster. If you can’t, then you’ll need to remove the cluster. A good suggestion here is to make sure you have any other under Dash tasks on a list ready to be done. I strongly advise you disconnect the battery while removing the cluster. Once out, you can reconnect to finish your test.It looks something like this. Since you are going this far, it’s a good idea to just replace the regulator anyway. They are available from NAPA or any decent auto parts store. Most of those chains don’t know anything about it unless it’s in the computer. Remember, you are dealing with people that only need a license to breath in the big chains, Brains weren’t applied for. continue...

Posted on May 03, 2010

  • ZJ Limited
    ZJ Limited May 03, 2010

    Just the fuel gauge is out

    IF the dash cluster has a
    printed circuit board,
    double check to be sure it’s in tact and there are no burned
    traces.Take your test light and
    connect the one end to
    ground. Turn on the ignition key and check the back of the fuel
    On the red wire, (I think it’s red. . they vary) you should get a dim
    pulsing light. If that is present, then you need to remove the gauge
    and inspect it. Look at the back of the gauge when it’s removed.
    sure the wires are connected to the posts. Make sure the coil isn’t
    charred black or cooked. If it’s charred, the gauge is done and your
    reason it doesn’t work. Start looking around for a cluster. I found
    less expensive to buy a whole cluster than just the gauge.

    If it gauge does work:
    (Reason #2)

    The quickest way to determine
    if it’s the wiring,
    bulk head connector, or the voltage to the gauge is to ground the wire

    at the sending unit. Use an alligator clip jumper
    and ground the wire
    to the sending unit to a chassis ground. Turn on the key and see if
    gauge goes to full.

    Reconnect the wire to the
    sending unit. Using the
    same alligator clip jumper. Ground the sending unit to the body. If
    gauge works, you know what you have to do. On non-****cars,
    is usually a clip that jumps across the rubber hose from the sending
    unit nipple to the fuel line. This clip establishes a ground
    the sending unit and the body.

    If it is present, simply
    twist it around to
    re-establish a ground. Over time, corrosion develops, loosing the
    ground. A generous application of simple Vasoline around the ends of
    the taps will prevent it from happening again.

    Before you go any further,
    let’s make sure the
    sending unit is working. You can get a general idea if the sending
    is working by checking it for resistance by using a simple
    Set your Multi-meter to 0-100 Ohms. By now you know how your car, so
    guess at how much fuel is in there and take a reading accordingly.
    full tank will read 9 to 10 ohms
    . An empty tank will read 96
    to 98
    Put the red probe from the meter to the center post on your

    sending unit, and the black to the body. Try using it to the fuel
    too. If you get something in between those two parameters, we can at
    least determine it’s putting out something. If the multi-meter is
    reading 50 ohms, as an example, then you have approximately half a
    tank. If there is no reading at all, then guess what? Run the tank
    down and remove the unit. However, if you are getting a reading, then

    it’s enough to activate the gauge.

    The gauge does not work:
    (Reason #3 and 4)

    This is a little tougher
    because some cars come in
    through the bulkhead connector or run through the body. You need to
    look at the tank wire and see if it enters the body at the trunk or
    under the rear seat. Usually it would head towards the drivers side.

    Most cases, the wire goes into the cabin and joins the tail light
    wiring. Note the color of the wire at the tank. Most likely it will
    the same color to the next connector. From there it may change.
    Usually a blue or black wire. Let’s use a 71 Fury as an

    If the gauge does not work, we
    need to work our way
    forward. Reground the wire to the sending unit with the alligator
    jumper. Remove the driver sidekick panel and locate the
    going to the rear of the car. Check for corrosion and broken wires.

    Determine which wire is the sending unit wire. In the 71 Fury it’s a
    bright blue wire. Connect your test light to a hot position on the
    block and test it to ground to make sure it lights up. Disconnect
    connector and check to see if the light goes on by probing the plug
    goes back. If it lights up, the wire is good to that point.

    OK Put the tank back together
    and make sure you’ve
    maintained a good ground. Put the car down, we’re done back there.

    Just for the heck of it, poke
    a ground wire into
    the connector that goes up into the dash and see what happens. Turn
    the key and see if the fuel gauge comes up. If it does, go back and
    check you wiring to the back again. Smear some Vasoline on the
    connections and reconnect the plug.

    Still not working? I assume
    you haven’t put the
    cluster back in by now. My suggestion would be to double-check your
    ground to the cluster again at this point. If you replaced the
    limiter as mentioned in phase one, everything should be in order.
    You’ll have to repeat step one over again. If the gauge is in good
    condition, and the dash cluster is in order, you need to repeat all
    these steps.


    Here is an idea on how to
    the sending unit to the body.

    Strip a piece of wire, lightly sand a small spot on the sending unit
    fuel nipple. Using a small hose clamp, clamp the wire to the
    nipple. Smear some Vasoline or a dot of grease on the connection
    to prevent corrosion. Connect the other end to the body with a
    screw, or slip it under a bolt somewhere nearby. Make sure the
    body connection is clean. You can grease that too if you want.

    This is not as complicated as
    it sounds. If you
    are pretty good with tools, you should be able to diagnose and
    repair the gauge or gauges in half a day, and that’s allowing for time

    to run to the parts store. Trying to tell you how to do
    this is difficult
    with so many different engineering schemes out there. But the basics
    are all the same. All the clues and what to look for are all here.
    Since I can’t see what you are doing, I can’t explain it any easier.
    It’s all common sense.

    Also, its possible that you are interesting in find you 2005 Cavaler Owners Manual.

    Hope this help (remember comment and rated this).



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