I am having a problem with tha front and rear brakes, I change disks and brake pads, drums etc. and still I have the same problem. noise front and rear.

did you adjust up the rear brakes correctly

Pedal, not peddle. First make sure reservoir is full at the brake master cylinder. Then check your brake pads (for disc brakes) and/or brake shoes (for drum brakes). When the pads or shoes are very worn down, you will get a low pedal. If you have disc brakes on the front and drums on the rear wheels, first try just replacing the front brake pads. If you get a good pedal after the front is done, many people tend to let the rear brake shoes go unless they are making noise. These systems are designed to put most of the braking force on the front discs, so the rear shoes do not need changing as often.

Bleed the breaks untill you get clean clear fluid out of each one. start with the right rear, left rear, right front, left front. DO NOT let the reservor get low while bleeding. You can suck air into the lines and have the same problem. You need to do this immediatly as your brakeing ability is uncertain and can be un reliable.

is brake pedal hard to push down without engine running ,if so proceed to step two and thats to start engine and then push on brake and if pedal softer to push then the servo is working ,now if excessive pedal travel with engine running then remove the rear drums ,make sure the outside lip is cleaned out and then adjust the brake shoes manually till they rub when you turn the drum ,this will cure it but remember that it has to bed in of course new pads brake disks ,new shoes and drums it has to bed in so give it a chance .

The best way would be to remove the wheel and see if you have drums or discs. Disc brakes on the rear will look like the front brakes, as discs are required on the front of 1970 vehicles and newer. You will see the rotor which will be shiny where the pads have rubbed it. On a drum, it will look like a rusty metal bowl facing away from you. If you have custom wheels you may be able to see through the spokes, but dust guards will not let you tell from the back.

You have air in the brake system and you will have to bleed the brakes.This will take time but if you keep your eye on the fluid level and then open the bleeder screw on one caliper at a time and let about 1 to 2 cups of fluid come out of each side you should get the air out of the system to regain your brakes.

Not much difference replacing the lines and fluids between disk and drum brakes. Huge difference when replaceing the pads. Never force the drum over the pads with a hammer etc. Make sure to take a picture of the assembly before taking it apart when not firmiliar with something. Adjust the brake tension through the site hole once the drum is over the pads.

When doing the disk brakes, make sure that you do not push in the caliper piston at it's edge. Use a C clamp placed dead center on the piston if required. Don't push it in any more than needed.

I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM I'VE BEEN DOING A LOT OF RESEARCH ON IT AND I THINK ITS GONNA BE THE BUSHINGS IN THE REAR KNUCKLE ASSEMBLY AND YOUR HAVE TO CHANGE THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY. I HAVEN'T TRIED IT YET BUT IF YOU CHECK BACK IN A COUPLE DAYS I WILL LET YOU KNOW

if you didn't turn the drums or disk down the area wear the saftey tab on the brake pads are still touching it causing the noise

Not wanting to be too general but at least trying to help I would suggest looking under the back end, and specifically at the rear backing plates and to the insides of the rear wheels, to see if you notice any fluids dripping. If these are drum brakes, then you could very well have either a wheel cylinder leaking brake fluid, causing the brake shoe linings to swell up, or it could be a leaking axle seal, allowing differential gear lube out, which will also cause the linings to swell, and minor braking will cause that particular side to lock up.
If this vehicle has rear disk brakes, or was just recently changed from rear drum brakes to rear disk brakes, it is possible that the proportioning valve in the brake line was not changed to match with the disk setup.
Drum brakes operate at approximately ten pounds per square inch pressure (10 PSI) whereas disk units operate at a lower pressure of about 2 PSI.
Just some things to look at. Some brake fluids have no smell, others are very distinctive in odor, and differential gear lube has a very distinct odor...not hard to miss once you've smelled it.