Question about 1999 GMC Jimmy
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
if you hear the fans blowing and no heat is coming
then you mite have to replace the heater.
before you try to replace the heater talk to Lords
Posted on Dec 04, 2008
Disconnect the heater hoses from the water pump and the intake manifold. Get a compressor and blow out the hose (put the air hose into the the hose that came off the mainfold. then flush the system and replace the antifreeze.
Posted on Dec 12, 2008
SOURCE: heater goes from hot to cold
I WAS TOLD IN THE PAST TO GET RID OF THE ORANGE ANTIFREEZE AND PUT IN THE GREEN IN ALL MY VEHICLES CREATES MORE PROBLEMS THE IT CURES THIS IS BY A SHOP I TRUST.I HAVE A 95/98 AND 99 BLAZERS.I HAD PROBLEM WITH VERY LITTLE HEAT AFTER CHANGING THERMOSTAT. HAD TO GET AIR OUT OF LINES BUY RUNNING IT FROM COLD START WITH RADIATOR CAP OFF UNTIL THERMOSTAT OPENED AND LEFT IT RUNNING UNTIL I SAW NO AIR BUBBLES COMING OUT OF RADIATOR SEEMED TO CURE PROBLEM
Posted on Dec 20, 2008
The instrument panel carrier is designed not only to provide access to parts through removal of the carrier components, but the carrier will also tilt downward as a complete assembly to allow access from the top. If this is desired, remove the retainer screws along the top and bottom of the carrier assembly (refer to the figure). The instrument panel will then tilt as an assembly into the cab. It is necessary to unbolt and lower the steering column from the carrier to allow for maximum movement of the instrument panel. OK you'll find and remove two screws in each of the defrost vents, that done now start on the passenger side by removing the side kick pad, 4 screws, now remove all the screws along the bottom of the dash, there should be 8- 1/4 head screws and three black plastic peaces will come out once you've got them all out, a long one on the passenger side, one under the steering wheel, and one small one by the fuse box, now there is one more panel to take off right under the calum you need to do this to get to your calum nuts, Oh the park brake cable needs to come off there's spring on the cable by the little lead ball on the end you need to compress it to get it over the fork in there, you'll see. OK now you have to locate four 3/8 head screws along the bottom one in each corner of the dash, one in the middle, and fourth one is up by the sheering calum nuts the nut close to the passenger side, now if yours has a tray in front of the center Counsel it is a good time to remove it three Philips screws and unplug the wires, I took this out because I need to wash all the anti freeze out of small duct pieces and the foam inside OK now turn the key on and shift the shifter to low to get the handle out of your way for later, ( UPDATE remove the plastic shifter indicator cable, you'll find it clipped on the part of the calum that moves as you shift, it will just push off, it should be on the right side under the calum nut if you don't the indicator won't work right ) remove the two steering calum nuts and pull the the calum down, time to move to the passenger side again, I did take the radio out but I found I didn't need to it will cut down on the weight though. OK now start to lift and pull and just keep working it out If you need a picture of where the heater core is and what it looks like send me a e mail at firstname.lastname@example.org I'll send you a picture I took of mine, anyways keep working it out till it's about a foot and a half out, now if it's not coming out check to see if a wire is holding you back I had a white one from the firewall and the wires for the computer needed to be worked and loosened a bit. OK now it's time to go after the heater core, the heater core cover has six screws holding it on, three up top and three on the bottom none are hid like some say in the forums, now move that cover to your right to brake it free, the foam on the left side is what is holding you back just rip it on the top and bottom fix it later, with that cover out of the way you should see the core now, on the sides you'll see a steel strap each strap has two screws holding it in place, remove them. OK now go out and under the hood, I found just cutting the hoses off at the core pipes worked for me if yours come off easy do that mine were not coming off, you will see a bracket in between the to pipes it is held there with a small screw, remove this screw then the bracket, because it won't pull through the fire wall, trust me, jam some rags in the heater core tubes so anti freeze doesn't spill out as you pull it through the fire wall, time to go back into the cab now. OK now just remove the old core and put the new one in, go out under the hood put your bracket back on, put in the screw then the hoses, go back to the cab and replace the heater core cover, put in your six screws, Now with the cover back start working the dash back into place, remember any wires you unplugged need to be replugged Eh. once the dash is in place I put the top screws in first, the ones up top at the defrost ducts, not all the way in mind you, because you'll need to move your dash around a bit to make sure all the screws on the the bottom line first
Posted on Oct 23, 2009
The problem is usually with the motor itself. If the blower will not come on, tap it with a hard object to see if it works. If it does, the problem is in the motor and it needs to be replaced. Many times it is a result of weak springs holding the brushes to the armature commutator.
Posted on Jul 29, 2010
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